Jump to content

Recommended Posts

No Daniel, there is no schedule, you take them when you can and as long as you can. Just visit the free sample lesson and you will understand what I mean. If you are spending that kind of money in tools and what not, might as well get the class I think. It is still a very personal decision though and I'm not associated to them in any way but I have learned a lot from them.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 1 month later...

I've cleaned quite balances ultrasonically over the years without any problem. If in doubt, try it on an old movement first to see how you get on. The only thing I will not ultrasonically clean I'd the dial. I tried it early on and it destroyed the finish.

Edited by Geo
  • Thanks 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Mark re-attaches the balance to the plate prior to cleaning in his videos, and the manually cleans the jewels after. Whipping around a liquid bath seems more violent and sitting stationary in an ultrasonic cleaner so I'd assume it's safe.

 

Mmmmmmm, sloshing about may be Ok, I'm concerned that 22Mhz may mess with the hair spring..............

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I have been collecting the tiny little Wilkin and Sons jam jars you get in some cafés, I can fit 3 in my ultrasonic cleaner and it means I can have a different fluid in each one if I wish. 

The brass fine mesh balls are useful sometimes as well for the really small bits. 

Like Bob and George I clean just about everything bar the dial and pointers.  The only thing I would say is dont use any solvent cleaner type substance that could dissolve the shellac/glue holding the jewels in place.

Since seeing Mark do it, I have started putting the balance back on the plate and it seems to be perfectly ok that way, it does not take long plus the plate gets a clean as well.

 

Cheers,

 

Vic

  • Like 3
Link to comment
Share on other sites

As title really, all of the sites I normally use for my watchmaking, Cousinsuk, HSWalsh, and Gleave & Co, are all based in the UK, and all cannot ship the products I need to Finland due to being dangerous chemicals.

 

I am preparing my Elma Super Elite, watch parts cleaner machine, and need these following products...

 

L&R 111 Cleaning Solution

L&R #3 Rinsing Solution

 

15508778617_5ff71f4ba5.jpg2014-11-02_2210 by Micky.!, on Flickr

 

So as you can see, I am a little stuck on where to buy the above products from, and I don't know of anywhere in Finland that would possible sell them :(

Edited by SSTEEL
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hi Micky,

 

Have you tried some US suppliers? Is it the same situation as with UK?

 

This is unbelievable but I searched for "watchmakers supplies, Finland" and I got "Rio Grande" suppliers... not even supplying watch related products. Apparently Mexico has borders with your country!! :D

In any case, if you don't find one close to home, check our directory of suppliers, maybe there is one close enough that can send what you need, probably ground shipping. I believe it is going to be expensive at best. If you were to find one in Finland, tell Mark so he can add it to our directory.

 

Bob

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Ouch, that is a bit pricey.

As this is a hobby with me I'm going to experiment with brewing my own. I picked up an old watch cleaning machine recently and l love to experiment. I will post how I get on whether good or bad.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I clean all my balances in the ultrasonic and have had no problems, however I have learnt to be a bit more careful with the Pallets as the cleaning solution can get a bit warm if used for an extended time period ( I personally can use it quite a lot in a one session) and sometimes Pallet jewels can come loose due to the shellac/ adhesive softening because of the increase in temperature within the cleaning solution...

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Cleaned a watch this afternoon using my L&R machine and noticed the parts are a little bit sticky.  Thought it was my tweezes but i think the movement parts have a film of some sort on them. I have recently cleaned several clock parts in the L&R & wondering if there was just too much old oil etc & it has contaminated my cleaning solution.

I have been keeping count using two counts for clock movements & it totals 18 washes. Any suggestions guys.

I have been using Elma

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I would not normally do clocks but if I did then I would use a separate jar of cleaner for the clock parts.

 

I used to work in a place where the clockies would take our used watch fluid to clean their watch parts (too dirty for us but clean enough for them). The exception was platform escapements which would not normally be a problem in the watch jar.

 

I have never used the Elma fluid but I have almost run out of my current stuff and was thinking of giving the Elma fluid a try. Apparently you use distilled water in the first rinse. Right now I use L&R watch rinse in the second and third jars. When the second jar gets dirty I will swap the third jar in it's place, discard the second jar's fluid and refresh it with new fluid - it becomes my new final rinse. Less waste this way.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.




  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • Hi I got a Jaeger LeCoultre K911 movement, where one of the stems was broken. Part no. Should be 401.  Im based in Europe and tried Cousins but its discontinued. They except to get stem in stock for cal. K916 but will that work? Or Is there a way out to join the ends?
    • The part was how it fell out of the movement - the train wheel bridge wasn’t screwed in.    I’ll probably dismantle the part, if I can, to work it out.    The train of wheels ran fine - it was only once the keyless works were installed I noticed the problem. 
    • Hello, I am about 5 months into watchmaking and I love it!   The attention to precise detail is what really attracts me to it. (and the tools!) I am working on a 16 jewel 43mm pocket watch movement.   There are no markings besides a serial number (122248) .  The balance staff needs replacement. The roller side pivot broke off.  I successfully removed the hairspring using Bergeon 5430's.  I successfully removed the roller using Bergeon 2810.   Did i mention I love the tools?! I removed the staff from the balance wheel using a vintage K&D staff removal tool  with my Bergeon 15285 (that's the one that comes with a micrometer adjustment so it can be used as a jewel press as well as a traditional staking tool...it's sooooo cool...sorry..  can you tell i love the tools?) No more digressing..  I measured the damaged staff in all the relevant areas but I have to estimate on some because one of the pivots is missing. A = Full length  A= 4.80mm  (that's without the one pivot...if you assume that the missing pivot is the same length as the other pivot (I'm sure it's not)  then A = 5.12 mm...(can I assume 5.00mm here?) F=  Hair spring collet seat  F=  .89mm   (safe to assume .90 here? .. I am sure that my measurement's would at least contain  .01 mm error ?) G = balance wheel seat  G = 1.23 mm  (1.20mm?) H  =  roller staff  H =  .59mm  (.60 mm?) B  = bottom of the wheel to roller pivot   B  = 2.97mm  (3.00 mm?)     here I am estimating  again because this pivot is missing. So my friends, and I thank you profusely,  can you point me in the right direction as to how to proceed? Do i buy individual staffs?  or an assortment?   Since I don't know exactly the name of the manufacturer, will that be a fatal hindrance?   Tbh, I'm not even sure what country of origin this movement is. Thank you!    
    • Thats why i asked that question earlier, what happens if lubrication is placed directly on top of epilame ?  As opposed to walled within its non epilamed area . I'm not saying its right, i have no idea , just asking questions. 
    • thinking of where epilam should be removed did you know there was a patent that covers this? At least for the escapement I'm attaching it. GB1057607A-1 epilame.pdf
×
×
  • Create New...