Which heirloom Rolex to buy?

[arron]

Hi guys. I have the notion to buy a vintage Rolex(s) to restore and pass down to my children.  I'd like to take my time doing research on different models but before I started I thought I would get some guidance from you all. My requirements are that 1. it cost $2500 or less. 2 that it not have radium. 3 that it be a  simple enough design that I can restore it myself. In that regard I would say I'm an intermediate beginner.  I can do a basic COA and i have changed a few balance Staffs.  4. I would prefer a non automatic but I'm flexible on that. 5. I prefer without a calendar for simplicity's sake but I am flexible on that as well.  5. Finally I would like something that has parts readily available and are not astronomical in price.

Just perusing eBay I have seen a couple of models that fit most of my criteria such as the Air king, and oyster precision.  But I have no idea if these would be decent models to consider or not. One thing I have noticed on eBay is that quite a few of the sellers don't really describe much about the running condition of the watches. Some don't even say if they are running. Which seems to be pretty odd given the high price tags of these watches.  I guess I could ask specific questions from the sellers and if I don't get answers then I would just move on. Can't imagine spending that kind of money and having it be a surprise whether or not the watch runs or the balance staff is broken.

 

Anyways thoughts anyone might have would be appreciated. Thank you.

[Knebo]

  On 1/29/2025 at 7:13 PM, arron said:

Hi guys. I have the notion to buy a vintage Rolex(s) to restore and pass down to my children.  I'd like to take my time doing research on different models but before I started I thought I would get some guidance from you all. My requirements are that 1. it cost $2500 or less. 2 that it not have radium. 3 that it be a  simple enough design that I can restore it myself. In that regard I would say I'm an intermediate beginner.  I can do a basic COA and i have changed a few balance Staffs.  4. I would prefer a non automatic but I'm flexible on that. 5. I prefer without a calendar for simplicity's sake but I am flexible on that as well.  5. Finally I would like something that has parts readily available and are not astronomical in price.

Just perusing eBay I have seen a couple of models that fit most of my criteria such as the Air king, and oyster precision.  But I have no idea if these would be decent models to consider or not. One thing I have noticed on eBay is that quite a few of the sellers don't really describe much about the running condition of the watches. Some don't even say if they are running. Which seems to be pretty odd given the high price tags of these watches.  I guess I could ask specific questions from the sellers and if I don't get answers then I would just move on. Can't imagine spending that kind of money and having it be a surprise whether or not the watch runs or the balance staff is broken.

 

Anyways thoughts anyone might have would be appreciated. Thank you.

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Hi @arron, 

The Air King and Oyster Precision models are usually 34mm in diameter. Some find it too small. Honestly speaking, I think you can see in the design that they are the cheapest Rolex. I don't think they're particularly appealing. 

If you can stretch the budget to the low-mid 3000s, you might be able to find a Datejust 36mm (even though both automatic and with date..). Maybe not on eBay, but local sellers, local classifieds. For most Datejust calibres, you can get generic parts, e.g. from Cousins. 

Have you considered vintage Omega? You could get a spectacular 1960s Omega Constellation for that price -- or even significantly below. In my opinion they are better value for money than the entry level Rolexes. 

One example here:

[AndyGSi]

Whatever watch you go for then eBay isn't the place as you don't know what you're getting.

For that sort of money I'd want to go and handle it.

[JohnR725]

  On 1/29/2025 at 7:13 PM, arron said:

vintage Rolex(s)

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one of the problems I have with the word vintage I think of actual vintage and you don't want to get vintage. But the good news is vintage definition of vintage is considerably newer. So basically on this group the last of whatever the vintage is this group would consider it basically a new watch.

  On 1/29/2025 at 7:13 PM, arron said:

that it not have radium

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so basically you can look up when radium was discontinued but the reality is radium existed beyond that. It have to make sure the dial has typically the T for for the other thing or find a watch that doesn't have anything that forces at all but I don't know how, that is Rolex.

  On 1/29/2025 at 7:13 PM, arron said:

1. it cost $2500 or less. 2 that it not have radium. 3 that it be a  simple enough design that I can restore it myself. In that regard I would say I'm an intermediate beginner.  I can do a basic COA and i have changed a few balance Staffs.  4. I would prefer a non automatic but I'm flexible on that. 5. I prefer without a calendar for simplicity's sake but I am flexible on that as well.  5. Finally I would like something that has parts readily available and are not astronomical in price.

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as I was reading through this the reality is I would go with a different suggestion recommended by somebody else.

  On 1/29/2025 at 7:51 PM, Knebo said:

Have you considered vintage Omega?

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okay without radium moves it somewhere into the 60s he can probably find discussion groups that will tell you when radium ceased on Rolex watches. Then Rolex has really beautiful service manual's probably the best service manual can find anywhere there in color they specify the screwdriver size everything almost sort of not really. All the watch companies have supplemental information which is not included in the service manual.

the nonautomatic is interesting it have to do some research I don't know how many non-automatics they have. As Rolex is big for automatic watches. But everything falls apart with number five as Rolex parts are not necessarily readily available unless it's one of the more common automatic calibers probably like 3135. You could probably go back to the 3035 but go look on eBay go look up parts lookup a balance complete for Rolex.

Go find yourself a really nice Omega watch they make really really nice watches. Where the parts are going to be more readily available unfortunately Swatch group doesn't want you to have parts so you're not to get him direct but Rolex doesn't like you either so they're the same that way but their way more Omega watches out there than Rolex watches.

That if you want something different really unique go find it vintage grand Seiko. Because grand Seiko started with manual wind watches and they actually are really nice watches. Haven't you ever wondered why chronometer certification by the Swiss do not include other countries? This way then avoid the embarrassment of what grand Seiko deaths to their standards. To go find a nice manual wind grand Seiko other than vintage Seiko's it can be hard to find the parts. That might be best to go with Omega as it probably fits all of your criteria.

[arron]

Thanks guys for your thoughts on this subject. I have to admit that the picture above of the omega is gorgeous. I don’t know  but there’s something about the Rolex, maybe the hype, that is alluring as a grail watch.    I’ve got quite a bit of research to do before I finally pull the trigger on anything that expensive and I appreciate everyone’s input. Thanks and have a nice day.

[mikepilk]

  On 1/30/2025 at 3:40 PM, arron said:

Thanks guys for your thoughts on this subject. I have to admit that the picture above of the omega is gorgeous. I don’t know  but there’s something about the Rolex, maybe the hype, that is alluring as a grail watch.    I’ve got quite a bit of research to do before I finally pull the trigger on anything that expensive and I appreciate everyone’s input. Thanks and have a nice day.

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Nice watches, but yes there's a lot of hype. It's why they restrict production of certain models (like Ferrari) to keep demand and prices high. Which is why you have to beg/grovel to get certain new models. 

It's a name that everyone knows, and associates with quality. The modern ones are the most accurate mass produced mechanical watches you can buy.

I recently read an article (wish I could find it) that said that at one time (50s, 60s?) Longines was considered the most desirable brand by the general pubic, above Rolex and Omega. 

But as it's a watch to hand down, to people who may not be as familiar with watch history, I'm sure they would prefer to see "Rolex" on the dial rather than Omega or Longines.

Here's one I just bought for about 1/5 the price of an similar aged Rolex

Edited January 30 by mikepilk

[nickelsilver]

At that price range, with manual wind an option,  I'd go IWC, Longines, Omega over Rolex, in that order (though the first two are tied), whatever you see that tickles your fancy.

 

Vintage rolex is an issue for parts, and, it's Rolex.

Edited January 30 by nickelsilver

[mikepilk]

  On 1/30/2025 at 4:49 PM, nickelsilver said:

At that price range, with manual wind an option,  I'd go IWC, Longines, Omega over Rolex, in that order (though the first two are tied), whatever you see that tickles your fancy.

 

Vintage rolex is an issue for parts, and, it Rolex.

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I've always liked IWC but don't have any yet. Any models/calibres you would recommend? 

[nickelsilver]

  On 1/30/2025 at 4:56 PM, mikepilk said:

I've always liked IWC but don't have any yet. Any models/calibres you would recommend? 

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My faves are the cal 83 (a bit small) and 89, proper size, center seconds. I also like their automatics with Pellaton winding system from the '60s.

[mikepilk]

Cal 89 looks nice. It's now on my ebay saved searches.    (..... or should I spend the money on a lathe  )
From the few I've seen on ebay, there seems to be a problem with corrosion on dials and movements. Maybe the cases don't seal as well as some?

[RichardHarris123]

What's everyone's opinion if Glashutte?

[tomh207]

  On 1/30/2025 at 5:37 PM, RichardHarris123 said:

What's everyone's opinion if Glashutte?

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Glashutte original the company or the region in Germany that most German watches come from Richard?

 

Tom

[RichardHarris123]

  On 1/30/2025 at 5:52 PM, tomh207 said:

Glashutte original the company or the region in Germany that most German watches come from Richard?

 

Tom

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The company. 

[tomh207]

I think personally that they make good watches and the designs tend to speak to what I like. So a subjective rather than objective response Richard.

 

Tom

[RichardHarris123]

  On 1/30/2025 at 6:38 PM, tomh207 said:

I think personally that they make good watches and the designs tend to speak to what I like. So a subjective rather than objective response Richard.

 

Tom

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It is subjective but so is IWC, Rolex and Omega. I like some of their watches, I wondered if it's a decent alternative. 

[tomh207]

  On 1/30/2025 at 6:47 PM, RichardHarris123 said:

It is subjective but so is IWC, Rolex and Omega. I like some of their watches, I wondered if it's a decent alternative. 

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My inclination would be towards longines, such a storied history compared to the others in this list.

 

Tom

[Knebo]

This is a discussion that could go on forever 

Rolex is king when it comes to public brand recognition. But second would likely be Omega (James Bond Seamaster and moon landing Speedmaster). 

Longines, unfortunately, has really gone down the pecking order to "entry level luxury" in today's perception. IWC is more niche, less recognisable in the wider public. 

Between Rolex and Omega, it's funny. Give me 5k, and I'd go for Rolex. But at 2.5k, Omega all the way. 

Car analogy (sorry, Euro-centric)... 

Rolex = Mercedes 

Omega = Audi 

But the Rolex Air King or Oyster Precision are a bit like the first gen A class. 

But you could get an Audi A3 (Omega) in great condition instead 

 

 

[Jon]

  On 1/30/2025 at 10:28 PM, Knebo said:

Between Rolex and Omega, it's funny. Give me 5k, and I'd go for Rolex. But at 2.5k, Omega all the way. 

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'Nuff said!

[nickelsilver]

For let's say 1950s, absolutely Longines or IWC. Omega was also doing amazing stuff, but not the same level. Definitely there technically, but not on the finishing. IWC was often called "the poor man's Patek". I hold that mid 20th century and some decades before, Longines was at least Patek level and more likely over. So Rolex, it was good, but not even close to IWC, Longines and Omega.

 

I've worked on enough of all the above brands to say before Rolex came out with its famous purple inversers for their automatics (60s? a bit later?) they didn't hold a candle to those others.

Edited January 30 by nickelsilver

[oldhippy]

I haven't gone through all the replies. My advice is go to a reputable watch dealer and talk to him or her. 

[spectre6000]

I went through a similar exercise with each of my children. When they were born, I found a watch that I would wear during their childhood, build memories and association, and hand down to them. Had to be of good quality (speaks for itself), something someone would want to wear whenever (not a fashion exercise), and have something for them to play with (extra crowns, pushers, etc.). My daughter is now 5, and she has a (doesn't matter what brand because brands don't matter) with dual rotating inner bezels. She has spent many hours in my lap turning those crowns and playing with the bezels. It's 2824-2 powered, and when it was due a service, I upgraded to a top grade Sellita movement (notably, not ETA). My son is only 6 months old, and he got a parts chronograph (doesn't even have a brand) with a top grade 7750 (yes, ETA, but I got it for a good price, and can swap in a Sellita down the road when I eventually find a vendor selling them in top grade). He grabs at it during diaper changes, and the shininess seems to do a good enough job at keeping him from alligator rolling off the changing table. He's just getting started with his watch. I've explained the deal to my daughter, and she's very excited about it. She has a butterfly Timex child's watch that she wears for "practice". I'll probably give it to her when she goes off to college or something. The thing about branding in this exercise is that it SO doesn't matter. DADDY is the brand. Memories and association are the brand. If I do my job(s) right, monetary value is 0% consideration. Both of these intentionally have the most broadly available workhorse movements where, even with Swatch's cartel-like practices, parts will ALWAYS be available forever and ever by way of donor movements if nothing else.

The price of a Rolex is about 10% watch, 90% marketing. If you took the name off the dial, and just assumed it wasn't a fly-by-night outfit that stood behind the product like most manufacturers do, a $50,000 Rolex stainless dive watch would probably go for about $5K. They're good, don't get me wrong, just not 10X better than reality. Ads in magazines and manufactured scarcity don't actually mean anything. 

If you're into watchmaking, you can look at watches with a less marketer influenced eye, and see what watches are really worth the time and money. Rolex never makes the cut for me, because branding carries $0 value in my world, and the street price makes them far too expensive for what they are. Add in the fact that Rolex won't sell parts to repairers, and you get a pretty steep reduction in value. Given a brand new Rolex, I would immediately turn around and sell it  while it's "worth" maximum dollars, because to me the watch has a negative valuation, and every day I wear it is a day's worth of wear that I can't repair.

There are a lot of extremely excellent watches to be had for your purpose in your price range. If I sound anti-Rolex, know that I'm not. I'm equally anti-(anything Swatch) right now, and that's most of what's been suggested. What I am is very pro-craftsmanship and engineering. Good engineering extends beyond blueprints though, and into things like maintainability, which the owner of a design can ruin by refusing to allow the end user to keep them going. Which is a bummer, because I REALLY like Omega's Co-Axial escapement. Right now, I'm pro-anything that I can "keep on the road". For $2500 if you're looking for new (which you aren't currently, but should the tides change), look for something with a Sellita movement. If you're looking for something used, keep an open mind, and do your homework on a per opportunity basis. 

[SwissSeiko]

  On 1/30/2025 at 6:35 PM, RichardHarris123 said:

The company. 

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In my opinion, they dont have the market appeal, because they are focused on watchmaking. That said, they make the absolute highest quality of watch within their price range, of any brand. The finishing level is Patek quality. The robustness of german engineering, and the looks of A. Lange. The pano line is stunning. The finishing is superb. And at a price point that can be had for $4-$5k used. The SeaQ Panorama is on my wishlist for a watch to hand down for generations. My 1016 explorer is probably worth in reality $1k, but the marketing and hype pushes the value through the roof. But Glaschutte Original watches are absolutely worth their value, and used they are severely undervalued.