Accutron tuning fork shims--history?
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I get that, but you're making unnecessary work for yourself. Resign yourself to having to give the movement a final clean and lubrication once you've fixed the problem. You probably won't need to redo the balance or the barrel in any case. The oil captured between the hole and cap jewels will still be good even if you've had it in and out of the movement half a dozen times. -
Thanks, some great advice. I have to go over the train every time I refit anything as each wheel has it's own bridge (cock?). They have a tiny amount of play so you can tighten them down in slightly different positions. This changes the gear mesh. I went through all that when I first started having issues with it. Movement works isn't fitted at the moment and nor is the seconds hand. The only reason I'm cleaning it every time is because each time I assemble it, I lubricate it. Mainly because you have to remove the balance wheel and hairspring to oil the top balance jewel. It's a pain so I always live in hope it will be going together for the last time. As the top one has to be oiled, so does the bottom one. Then I may as well do the train wheels.... I could just do the whole thing dry, but if it works, I'll still have to disassemble the balance again and it's always a risk. The hair spring is pinned, the cap jewel screws are underneath (stupid design. To be fair, the 3 separate bridges is a stupid design too). I'll play with it more tomorrow and gather some more info, pics, and maybe some video. Thanks for all the advice. -
It's not great, IF you did the test without the pallet installed. Assuming 18000 beats per day, 25 seconds is 125 beats or about 62 oscillations. You should get 100 or more. If the pallet was in place when you did the test it means nothing. Either way, this is not the principal issue. I was going to mention that I recently worked out that I get much better pics with a loupe held in front of the phone camera than trying to shoot down the microscope. I use a 20x loupe, but try with whatever you have. The roller jewel (or impulse jewel) could be an issue, particularly if it is loose, but this is also not the main issue. Get some clear pics so you can ask the experienced members here about it after you have addressed the main issue. Nothing in the escapement explains the rapid deterioration you're seeing 20 minutes after winding. That suggests an issue in the train rather than the escapement. The failure to self-start after it has been running a while confirms that power is not getting to the escapement. If it was me, and I was confident I had eliminated the barrel as the source of the problem, I'd be looking further down the train. I'd first make sure the canon pinion was out to eliminate the motion works as a source of the problem. Also make sure the centre seconds pivot is removed, if it has one, or the seconds hand if it has sub-seconds. If that didn't make a difference I'd then work my way through each wheel starting at the centre wheel. Is it sitting level? At the right height? Does it have just enough end shake? Does it have excessive side shake? What happens if you touch the upper pivot with a piece of pegwood with just a little bit of power in the mainspring? What about the lower pivot? Once I was certain there was no problem there I'd move on to the third wheel, and so on all the way down the train. Just because the train runs freely with the pallet out does not mean it has no problems as excessive side shake (for example) will only be an issue when the train is under tension. Finally, I advise you to stop re-cleaning until you have fixed it. I know the temptation, but it's just a distraction. You need to be systematic and methodical.
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By HectorLooi · Posted
If you short the two blue wires together, does the unit chime? I have a similar chime unit that is designed to work with a quartz movement with an hourly trigger switch. I'm not aware of any movements or chiming units that chime quarterly. -
Yes the 364 does look like a better match.
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