Jump to content

Platform woes


transporter

Recommended Posts

In need of a little help, I currently have a winter Haller and Hof Meier Fusee time only movement with platform escapement. 

Now the platform isn’t the original, so firstly does anyone have one for sale, or a picture/measurements of an orginal. 

Secondary and also a major problem is the entry pallet jewel has been replaced with a piece of steel. 

I found the reason for this and it’s because the pallet jewel holder had been broken ( where the jewel sits sandwiched between the upper and lower bits the top bit had snapped and been soldered on with the new bit of steel for an entry pallet ).

The picture shows the exit pallet jewel as it shows how it is sandwiched between the jaws of the pallet. 

The repair was reasonable but it lacked enough depth into the scape wheel teeth. 

So next ask, does anyone know of where to get clock pallet jewels all my suppliers just sell the Brocot style and not lever type. 

Any help greatly appreciated. 

IMG_5572.jpg

IMG_5571.jpg

IMG_5573.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 5 weeks later...

Hi no idea really at my age to fiddly.  Ihave done the W&H. Mantle clocks but never had one of those with a platform.  The last platform clock I repaired was cobbled to gether from various platforms to get a working one.. there are many generic platforms but some require re drilling the plate, I take it you are trying to stay true to the clock.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Haller and Hof Meier made so many different movements it is probably imposable  to get  the proper replacement platform. I must say the one you are showing looks good the same colour brass as the movement and looks correct to the plate. When you have large pallet jewels that need replacing steel is normally the preferred replacement.   

If this was in my workshop. I would make a new steel fitting to hold the pallets 

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.



  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • yes the things we read in the universe I did see some where it was either difficult to clean off or it contaminated the cleaning fluid there was some issue with cleaning. I was trying to remember something about grease where as opposed to a substance of a specific consistency they were suggesting it had a base oil with something to thicken it. That conceivably could indicate that the two could separate and that would be an issue. But there is something else going on here that I had remembered so I have a link below and the description of the 9501 notice the word that I highlighted? Notice that word appears quite a bit on this particular page like 9415 has that property all so they 8200 mainspring grease and that definitely has to be mixed up when you go to use it because it definitely separates. just in case you didn't remember that nifty word there is a Wikipedia entry. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Thixotropy   https://www.moebius-lubricants.ch/en/products/greases I wonder if what you're seeing is the boron nitride left behind after cleaning. In other words it's the high-pressure part of the grease and it's probably embedding itself into the metal which is why it doesn't clean off and shouldn't be a problem?
    • Yes and no. I use Moebius 9501 synthetic grease and it is significantly runnier than the Moebius 9504 synthetic grease (and I assume Molykote DX) that I previously used. I haven't seen 9504 spread and it is in my opinion the best grease money can buy. However, my current method of cleaning doesn't remove it from the parts, so that's why I have decided to use the 9501 instead. I believe I read somewhere that Molykote DX too is difficult to clean off. Thinking about it, I'm pretty sure my 9501 grease which expired in June 2022 is runnier now than it was when it was new, but whether new or old it always needs to be stirred before use. So, that's why I treat the parts of the keyless works, cannon pinion, etc. with epilame. That was very thoughtful of you and something that had completely passed me by. Not sure what the epilame will do when it wears off in a non-oiled hole. Anyone?
    • Hi not found one either yet,  close relative is the 436 and 4361 according to ranff.db.   It gives quire a lot of detail but not as good as the old site.      RANFF.DB.
    • No problem to replace the setting with the staking set. Press the new setting from inside, use flat face punch with hole. The punch must be wider than the setting, the hole to be as not to press at the stone, but only on the bush. Press by hand until the setting gets flush with the plate surface, so the punch must rest on it.
    • Yes, the arbor usually makes about 3 to 3.5 turns. But usually spring takes 2/3 to 3/4 of the free space in barrel, not 1/2, so take it for the calcullations. This way the change in torque is smaller. I have a picture for You, this one is little older, but no mater
×
×
  • Create New...