Jump to content

New Member And Watch Bands


Hamish

Recommended Posts

Hi folks,

 

New member from Australia. I have been following your forum for a couple of weeks and have really picked up some good tips. I really had a life long interest in watches, but started getting into repairs around 6 years ago. Before that I was the guy who was on the couch Christmas day fixing all the broken toys as I guess some of you were as well. I became a fan of Marks videos and really learnt a lot, like you I find them relaxing as he seems to employ minimum effort in what he does (read skill). Mark, you make a good instructor.

 

I started with pocket watches and have steadily tried to better myself. Like all of you I sure have had my share of frustration...lost parts, breaking things etc, but like anything I guess, if you persist you will get better.

 

What I really like though, is to repair old watches that belonged to fathers/uncles etc and see them being worn again. I have done many over the years. It really appeals to me and most people too, that these fine pieces of machinery are resurrected from the backs of drawers and do their original job again. People ask me what the cost is and I always say no charge as long as you wear it from time to time.

 

Anyway on to the topic of this thread. I have recently (past two years) branched out a bit and started making watch bands. I found the ones on the internet either costly or poor quality. I use exotic skins, maybe a little pricey, but they go a really long way. There are many challenges to get a band right and I would be happy to pass on tips that seem to help me to any members. Crocodile is my favourite, it as tough as anything, but cuts like butter. The set up is straight forward and does not cost much. It takes me around 4 hours per band including the hand stitching. Here is a photo of some examples.

 

post-1190-0-22732500-1436956017_thumb.jp

 

The orange one (yes a bit out there, is ostrich and it has a soft kid backing), the dark ones are crocodile, and the brown is ostrich neck. I experimented a bit and changed the band on a chrome seiko hi-beat to a patchwork (eel, toad, sea snake, ostrich etc) one which my wife likes. Friends have them and wear them regularly and they seem to last well so far.

 

So, glad to be aboard and looking forward to learning more.

  • Like 6
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks for the excellent introduction Hamish, it's always good to get an idea of what others are doing. Your foray into watch straps is indeed excellent. It would be great to see how you go about it. :)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hello Hamish and welcome.

You have a talent for making your own watch straps and very good they look. When I started my own shop I stocked Apollo watch straps and I found them to be good. The best seller would be the croc straps followed by pig skin. I assume you buy the buckles. Have you thought of setting up on your own and making it into a full time job. Don't go giving your secrets out.    :D

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hello Hamish and welcome,

 

You certainly are gifted, they are excellent.

I look forward to your posting describing how you make the bands.  Your hand stitching looks smart as well, you must be a patient type - well suited to watch repair :thumbsu:

Cheers,

 

Vic

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.



  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • hmmmm.... maybe there is a way to skin that cat 🙀 let me think on it... unless anyone else has any ideas? I left the opening in the side of the base and ring quite large to maybe allow you to grip the crown, but appreciate this may not always be possible, especially for small movements where the crown will not extend past the outer wall of the holder. I noticed this also, but after using the holder for a while I noticed that the ring/holder began to wear into shape (rough edges/bumps worn off) and the size became closer to the desired movement OD. Maybe with some trial and error we could add 0.5 mm (??) to the movement OD to allow for this initial bedding-in?
    • Hi nickelsilver, thanks for the great explanation and the links! I'll take a good look in the article.  Especially this is great news to hear! Looking through forums and youtube videos I was informed to 'fist find a case and then fit a movement for it'. But seems that's not the case for pocket watches at least?  I guess I should be looking to find some 'male square bench keys' for now. I was thinking of winding the mainspring using a screwdriver directly, but I found a thread that you've replied on, saying that it could damage the spring. 
    • Murks, The rate and amplitude look OK, and the amplitude should improve once the oils you have used get a chance to move bed-in, also I notice that you are using default 52 degrees for the lift angle, if you get the real lift angle (assuming it's not actually 52) this will change your amplitude - maybe higher, maybe lower. I notice that the beat error is a little high, but not crazy high. At the risk of upsetting the purists, if the balance has an adjustment arm I would go ahead and try and get this <0.3 ms, but if it does not have an adjustable arm then I would probably leave well alone. Just my opinion.
    • Hi everyone on my timegrapher it showing this do a make anymore adjustment someone let me know ?    
    • Maybe I'm over simplifying this and I'm a little late to the discussion, but just by my looking at oil when I use it on a treated cap jewel  the oil stays in one nice bubble, but when I don't it spreads out to the edges of the jewel. I'm not sure (but could well be wrong) but the analogy of a waxed car and rain is accurate in this case, the wax is very hydrophobic and repels the water, however, the process epilame works by is a different physical process based upon cohesion/adhesion (oleophilic) not repulsion (oleophobic)  at least as far as I have read/observed. If one were to use a oleophobic substance equivalent to wax (hydrophobic) then one would need to create a donut shape to fence in the oil, however if one used such a strategy with a epilame which is oleophilic then the oil would sit on the ring of the donut and not in the 'donut hole', exactly where you don't want it. Even if the oil is smeared then the oleophilic epilame should pull it back to the center (see diagram below). Reference For interest the chemical in epilame is 2-(PERFLUOROHEXYL) ETHYL METHACRYLATE, CAS NO: 2144-53-8
×
×
  • Create New...