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Le-Coultre Futurematic


Geo

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I have a love of bumper automatics, and have a few from different manufacturers in my collection. The Holy Grail that has eluded me for a long time is the Le Coultre Futurematic. This has now been put right by my latest acquisition from Germany.

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This Futurematic has a complicated, but very well made calibre 497 movement and is keeping excellent time, about +3 seconds a day on the wrist. It also produced a nice clean graph with no beat error on my Timegrapher. I will service it sometime in the future and post an article about it. The only thing I have done to it is re-finish the original crystal and give the slightly worn gold finish a light polish and fit a new strap. I'll do a proper job later when I service it.

Unusual features are:-

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The watch has no visible crown, it is hidden on the back of the case in the form of a flat serrated button. To set the watch, slide the button towards the middle of the watch then rotate it to set the time. There is a built in hacking lever so it is possible to set the time to the exact second.

The watch cannot be wound by the button, just set the time give the watch a couple of shakes and wear it.

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Manual type mainspring that has no facility to let it slip when fully wound like other automatic watches. When fully wound, a latch comes into play and locks the bumper rotor preventing it from moving. When the spring unwinds slightly, the latch releases and allows the rotor to swing again. The good thing about this system is the rotor only moves when required and cuts down on bearing wear.

Another strange feature of the spring setup is it is pre-tensioned with one and half turns of preload when run down. This ensures an immediate start up as soon as the rotor moves, negating the need to give the watch a good shake before wearing it.

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There is a power reserve indicator at the three o’clock position on the dial that rotates clockwise when winding. When fully wound, the indicator just touches the bottom of the gold quadrant, and when run down, the hand is in the vertical position at the beginning of the red quadrant. Power reserve is 27 hours.

Just as an aside, when re-casing the movement the matt black dial was a sod to clean properly. After using the puffer I noticed that there were still some tiny specks on the surface. They are easily removed with the lightest touch of the Jewel Picker Upper!

I hope you found this interesting.

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Great looking movement   from the photo the hairspring looks strange?   is it just the angle?   Just wondering I have not serviced that particular JL movement yet

 

Sincerely,

Jim

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I see what you mean Jim. It is probably is just an aberration due to the lens and the angle the photo was taken. The watch starts easily and is holding excellent time, so I don't think anything is amiss. When I strip I get around to servicing it, I'll have a closer look.

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    • Thanks Neverenough.  That's exactly why I posted this.  I'd rather wear it dirty than destroy it. I took a high powered magnifier and looked all along the crystal and found no evidence of prying, so my presupposition was that the glass came off.  I'd never heard of a crystal lift, and don't have one.   Is there one you recommend?  Would one from Amazon suffice for my purposes?  
    • I am not sure how well horosolv evaporates, or if it leaves any residue that would negatively affect your later cleaning stages. It certainly would not hurt to quickly dip in IPA after that stage.
    • Don't be so hard on yourself. We've all been there! One slip and hours of work down the drain. It's in the nature of the job/hobby. A huge sense of satisfaction when you finally get the job done is the other side of the same coin. That top pivot was scrap anyway. 😉 And you will, even if it takes longer than you hoped. Now you are going to learn how to replace a balance staff. All good!
    • Some of these are intended for pocket watches. The two circlular ones with protruding bits - the one with 10 tips is a sleeve wrench, used for adjusting the stem sleeves in American negative-set pocket watch cases. The other with 6 tips is a jewel pusher, used for pushing out lightly friction fit jewels in brass settings which are mostly found on American pocket watches though some Swiss watches use them too. The Levin tool with the parallel ruby jaws is for poising a balance, getting it to run without any heavy spots which affect timekeeping, and the Levin tool with the thumbscrew between two halves is a truing caliper, used for verifying wheels are straight and true. The one you have happens to be the best type of this tool in my opinion. Eventually you will need the micrometers for something, but if they measure in inches rather than mm that is less useful. You won't need most of these for an ST36 or any modern movement, but the moment you pick up a pre-1950 pocket watch and want to make it run well a lot of these will become useful. If you do decide to sell some, I would expect the Levin truing caliper to be worth about $35 on ebay, and the Levin poising tool is pretty nice with an intact spirit level. If the ruby jaws are not chipped in the middle, that would be worth $50-$75 on ebay. The sleeve wrench and jewel pusher are harder to sell because there are tons of them available. It could bring $30 or it could only be $5 if you were unlucky. Movement holders of various types are always worth at least $15-$20 (some much more but I don't see those here), but I would keep those as you can use them today.
    • Thank you for the encouragement. 🙂 I do have a staking set, but I have yet to learn how to use it.  It is a K&D 18R set with a mixture of different brands of punches,  some K&D and some Levin. I will look for a donor movement too. I was servicing this watch in order to give it to a friend who admired it,  so I would like to repair it if possible.
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