Jump to content

Question about advice for fixing my Emporio Armani AR-1792 watch


Recommended Posts

So I went to a place to get my battery replaced and the person ended up knocking one of the pointers out of its place, now I image to get this fixed I would have to remove the crown in order to access the front part, I however am not sure how to do this in this particular watch as there is no release as far as I can see,

but yea in the first picture the sub dial has fallen into the area where the other sub dial is, and I am trying to get that back in place and the second picture I have removed the plastic bit and trying to figure out how to remove the crown but the things I have tried did not work, and I do not wish to damage the watch.

Any help would be appreciated thank you!

20220810_174940.jpg

20220810_175415.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hi  it liiks like a ronda 502LO but its a bit blurry in the picture.  Looking at the watch plate there is a hole in the 11 O clock position beneath which there is the release lever/button. press down with a pointer and pull out the stem

Attached is a tech sheet which may help. its probably not the exact caliber but close enough.   post a clearer picture of the plate and number    thanks.

579_Ronda5020B Pages 1-4.pdf

Link to comment
Share on other sites

5 minutes ago, watchweasol said:

Hi  it liiks like a ronda 502LO but its a bit blurry in the picture.  Looking at the watch plate there is a hole in the 11 O clock position beneath which there is the release lever/button. press down with a pointer and pull out the stem

Attached is a tech sheet which may help. its probably not the exact caliber but close enough.   post a clearer picture of the plate and number    thanks.

579_Ronda5020B Pages 1-4.pdf 2.83 MB · 0 downloads

oh I had tried this before and it did not work, but this time for some reason it did but it appears there is more holding it in place than just the crown, I might need to fully disassemble it to get at the face of the watch, unless there is something else I am doing wrong, sorry I am not the most experienced with watches, but I do have many different tools for small electronics

I have been trying to take a more clear picture of the plate but it seems I am unable to, my camera refuses to focus on such a reflective surface, I apologize

Link to comment
Share on other sites

7 minutes ago, watchweasol said:

Hi Thats ok just post the number.  Regards the stem release. On some watches you have to pull the stem to the setting position in order to put into view the release tab. try that and look in the hole for signs of the small release tab. popping into view.

I did manage to get the crown/stem out, as for the number I used a different camera and the only number I could find is this RONDA 5021.D unless its regarding the watch model number which is AR-1792, but even after removing the stem the mechanism doesn't slide out of the watch like I have seen on other watches, still quite unsure how to reach the face of the watch, I appreciate you taking your time to help me, thank you

Screenshot 2022-08-10 203826.png

Link to comment
Share on other sites

This here is basically what I was hoping is how I access the face part of the watch, I am this far however it seems like this is not how it works with my model

as commonly this method does work

this part is what I am trying to reach to set the pointer back in place

Screenshot 2022-08-10 212644.png

Edited by MrLDasVino
Link to comment
Share on other sites

15 minutes ago, watchweasol said:

Hi attached is the 5021D tech sheet  if you read thro it it explains that to remove the stem put the stem in to position 1 as indicated on the sheet, release the stem and remove movement.

 

Joes eyesight is obviously better than mine, good man.

1554624552_7027_Ronda5021d.pdf 15.38 MB · 1 download

That is a very detailed pdf thanks, after removing the stem and movement holder, the movement refuses to come out of the case still, this is where I am stuck at, as far as I know after removing the holder + center stem it should just pop out, the two side stems do not actually touch the movement  only when your push them in, unless the front part of the watch twists off? which I am unsure of, sorry about the inconveniences I am causing

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Just now, Nucejoe said:

Is this a screw or snap back?   I see what can be an O ring fitted inside the case to  retain the dial where put.

It can also be a front loader.

 

it is a snap back, yeah I have been trying to figure that out but am unable to find any documentation on this particular model, so right now I am thinking that it is indeed possible to remove the front part or that the movement is just really stuck in there, I am unsure what to use to even attempt to open the front part without damaging it or if to twist it counter or clockwise, so I may just have to bring it to a shop

Link to comment
Share on other sites

1 hour ago, MrLDasVino said:

it is a snap back, yeah I have been trying to figure that out but am unable to find any documentation on this particular model

There is no "documentation" for fashion watches. The crystal is removed pumping air through the case tube with a syringe, or similar specific tool.

Edited by jdm
Link to comment
Share on other sites

57 minutes ago, jdm said:

There is no "documentation" for fashion watches. The crystal is removed pumping air through the case tube with a syringe, or similar specific tool.

oh well I suppose then I need to give up as I have no idea where to even start for something like that, while I do have some syringes I wouldn't know where to exactly pump the air through, thank you very much for the clarification I appreciate it

Link to comment
Share on other sites

To remove the crystal using a pump  replace the back  and with stem removed place the pump/syringe over the stem hole using a plastic bag as a gasket and also to catch.  glass then  press the pump/syringe and the air pressure should remove the crystal.   If the glass has a bezel  ring, this has to be removed first using a case knife or a sharp blade. hold the watch with safety glove 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

1 hour ago, Kalanag said:

This watch has a mineral glass which is held by a gasket ring. I‘m quite sure the movement has to come out from the back.

 

7F02DCCC-38E9-4277-8383-5AC21C6F9A81.jpeg

2C0E3DCB-C980-4E4A-B9E2-3080FEE34959.jpeg

I have attempted to remove it from the back but its definitely not budging, normally when you remove the stem and give it a little wiggle the whole thing just comes out, but it appears its not the case with this watch

3 hours ago, watchweasol said:

To remove the crystal using a pump  replace the back  and with stem removed place the pump/syringe over the stem hole using a plastic bag as a gasket and also to catch.  glass then  press the pump/syringe and the air pressure should remove the crystal.   If the glass has a bezel  ring, this has to be removed first using a case knife or a sharp blade. hold the watch with safety glove 

 

I have attempted to remove the bazel with a stanley knife and a scalpel but that too is not budging, as I am unsure how much pressure I am allowed to apply without damaging anything, the watch is waterproof so that may give some hints, once again thank you guys for trying to help me

Link to comment
Share on other sites

As the crystal is flat and just held by a plastic ring you should be able to stick it to a flat surface (a tile or similar) with a good double sided adhesive tape and pull the case straight off (using two wooden or plastic levers if necessary). Should the crystal brake accidentally it can be sourced cheaply.

Edited by Kalanag
Link to comment
Share on other sites

8 hours ago, MrLDasVino said:

I have attempted to remove the bazel with a stanley knife and a scalpel but that too is not budging, as I am unsure how much pressure I am allowed to apply without damaging anything,

The bezel can be very tight and almost impossible to remove in safe, undamaged way without a special tool.

However to refit an hand all you need is to remove the crystal. Air is pressed into the only tube that is one the case, where stem goes troughtout. Trying double sided tape might work but the reality is that even apparanetly trivial casing work requires tools.

Edited by jdm
  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.



  • Similar Content

  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • As with every skill it watchmaking, it takes practice. Notice at the top of the document it says, "Practical work - 40 hours".  I can get the balance wheels 'close enough' to flat, but never seem to get them perfect. Same with gear wheels. Guess I need more practice.
    • Has it got a beat adjustment on the platform or is it a fixed hairspring? in short what you are looking at to get it just about in beat is to get the roller jewel sitting dead centre between the banking pins. So remove the platform and take of the pallet fork and escape wheel to give you clear line of site, sit the platform with the balance in place and with it level look between the banking pins and see if the roller jewel is sitting between them, if it is nice and central its there or there abouts in beat, if its not the the position of the pinned end of the hairspring needs to be adjusted to move the roller jewel into the correct position, thats why I asked if it has an adjustment on the platform or not, if it has its an easier job. 
    • I've managed to adjust it. I'm going to try and explain it as well as I can with my limited horology knowledge but I hope it helps someone in the future. There is a cam to the right of the front plate as shown in the picture. As the clock ticks along, the pin indicated in the gear comes around and slots into one of the silencer cam gaps, turning the cam. The pin completes a full rotation in 2 hours. To adjust the cam to start at the right time set the clock to just before 7. I did 6:45. Then I turned the silencer cam anticlockwise, which spins freely, until it pushed the silencer lever up and was placed just before the drop. Just before the 7AM indicated in the picture. All I then had to do was progress the hands to 7-7:15which made the pin slot into the silencer cam gap and turn the cam so the lever comes down again, unsilencing the clock. That was it. If anyone comes across this issue again I'd be happy to assist. Thanks again to everyone that helped. Hey Transporter! Thanks a lot for the reply. That was a really good explanation and I'm sure it would have made my troubleshooting a lot less painful haha. I'm sure someone will find it useful in the future. Thank you again for taking the time to try and help me out with this.
    • Now I'm completely confused, it would appear that the epilame  is oleophobic  as @Marc states: This oleophobic  behavior can be seen as beading of the droplet (as above) which stops the oil spreading which is supported by what we observe on treated/untreated cap stones (for example), but as @VWatchie states this should make the drops more mobile and is supported by the literature:   A review on control of droplet motion based on wettability modulation principles design strategies recent progress and applications.pdf   However the hole point is that we have less mobile oil so an oleophobic  would see to be the opposite of what we want. In fact this beading and high mobility are desirable properties in things like smart phone covers, see below.  I am fairly sure that epilame doesn't make the droplets more mobile, so maybe its a strange coating with dual properties that are both oleophobic (beading) and cohesive/adhesive resulting in low mobility?? This may explain the high price??  
    • The description there is exactly how it's done, and it's very well written!
×
×
  • Create New...