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Omega 610 Movement gets stuck during date change, yet the watch keeps ticking


kaan

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I just disassembled, cleaned and re-assembled this watch, previously it wasn't working, and after this procedure, it was working pretty well, no apparent damage to anything to my amateur eye

It has been mysteriously losing ~25-40 minutes a day and I finally found out how, just around 11:10 - the hour/minute hands stop moving yet the watch keeps ticking

It should be a sign of something obvious, what is it? 🙂

IMG_0419.jpg

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I'm completely new to this but I would:

  1. See if running the watch past the point where the date changes WITHOUT the date mechanism engaged also lost time.
  2. Inspect the cannon pinion.

When you say the watch keeps ticking, I assume you mean that the escapement is behaving as it should? During the period when the date is changing what does the Timegrapher say?

I would take a hard look at the date mechanism.

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7 hours ago, kaan said:

Time grapher reading seems healthy at any point I set to, even when stuck

It's not going to change a lot on the timing machine but your lift angle is wrong. Instead of 52° it's supposed to be 49°. Then 214° amplitude for a freshly serviced watch wound up seems a little on the low side?

Then that's an interesting way to hold the watch? Doesn't seem to be hurting anything but you want to be careful of insulating the watch from the microphone sometimes you might get bad readings. Then ideally the crown should be facing out word it will pick up a better signal that way when the Watch is cased up.

Then usually when you're assembling the watch And you put the Canon pinion on it's always good to check the setting see how it feels. Not always but a lot of times you can tell if it feels really well you just don't feel any friction you know you're going to have an issue and it's a good time to deal with it when you're assembling it. You can't always tell 100% sometimes they'll feel not the tightest of the world with no work fine but it's a good time to check when you're assembling.

Then because this is an Omega watch you should bill regulated a little bit better than it is now. Also nice if you give us another position than dial up usually crown down is another good position. This is because when you're resting on the pivot your at the least friction and you usually get the best reading when you go to one of the crown positions friction increases and were more likely to see if there's issues. Like the 214° you'll probably drop below 200 and for freshly serviced watch that's definitely going to be undesirable.

 

 

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I'm convinced it's 100% the cannon pinion and I'll update when I open the watch, I have a donor movement, worst case scenario I'll swap the cannon pinion

Thanks a lot for the detailed suggestions, indeed I stopped placing plastic on the timegrapher - however I've worried the metal side will scratch cases, so I'll put a piece of paper instead 

I don't have a staking set, but have a microscope and have heard of the little bite with a nail clipper method, going to use an unused tiny swiss army nail clipper and try to nudge the existing cannon pinion a little before replacing it

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15 hours ago, kaan said:

 little bite with a nail clipper method

If you're doing this make sure you place a slightly undersized rod inside to prevent the canon pinion collapsing.

Anilv

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