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About kaan

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  1. I had this idea after @watchweasol suggested Watch-O-Scope to me, why not just record a watch close up with a phone, and then use the beats data, over, let's say 1 minute to calculate the daily error rate? This is coming from a complete watch noob, so there's likely a reason it won't work, since it's not been done before, no such basic app on the App Store as far as I can see But I recorded my 28800 beat watch in a room with AC running, and from the sound graph, you can clearly see 8 perfect beats every second I guess the next step for me is to run it for 1 minute, and reach +6s/d - which is my watch's deviation Before I count all those beats manually, just wanted to consult the community, how exactly does a time grapher work, why does it need a degree as an input etc.
  2. Thank you @watchweasol - I appreciate that suggestion more than you can imagine I really hate buying tools that take too much space and I don't need 100%, I'll attempt the DIY route first
  3. At first coarse adjustment, I had +10 seconds at 3 hours At the secondary adjustment, I got -27 seconds at 4 hours I feel like buying a Timegrapher
  4. I understand, thank you - No need to get passive aggressive Any insight on the fine adjustment? (I maybe googled this subject 3-4 times in the past too, hard to stumble on infographics, usually always theory - if someone just drew directions on a couple of example movements and marked "slower"/"faster" - that would've saved us all some time I guess )
  5. I know the physics, yet, when it comes down to it, like I mentioned, I don't have the layout of the spring imagined, so it's unclear which direction increases or decreases the spring Thanks, I didn't know about the coarse regulation Would appreciate directional help about both regulators I guess for the coarse one, if it's moved towards the center of the movement, it seems to shorten the spring and fasten the movement?
  6. Assembled the watch today, running good, it will lose ~20 seconds a day if I calculated correctly (~50 hour power reserve as advertised) My head doesn't really computer watch dynamics yet, do I fasten/insert the regulator screw to make the watch run faster, or do I relax it, maybe remove the screw altogether again?
  7. It is indeed exactly that screw, thank you @JohnR725 Unsure where to go from here, is it a sign that the bore is worn out and the screw will fall back again? I guess I'll try how it inserts when the winding power is gone Edit: And thank you @watchweasol
  8. In the meantime I attached the broken glass part with an uv resin, hoping my old violet laser is able to cure that resin and the resin is actually something meaningful, it could only be for basic crafting purposes, haven't tried before Really excited to get things back together and see whether it keeps time, but waiting for the movement to unwind, probably tomorrow
  9. It is much much much tinier than the dial screws, it's so tiny that even if I found where it goes, I won't be able to screw it in, because I don't have a screwdriver such a tiny head I checked with a loupe but I can't find any other such small screw
  10. Hi everyone, I'm a newbie from Turkey, watch enthusiast I hate automatic watches, I believe it's 99% a useless gimmick, an unneccessary complication, I think it only makes sense with screw down crowns, I'd rather have a slimmer/simpler watch and enjoy winding it directly - recently re-sparked my interest in watches by buying a Tisell Miyota Pilot, first think I did was to remove the winding weight - converted the watch from a noisy/flimsy thing to a rigid/joy to wear device Recently started buying defunctional vintage watches to learn basic servicing to be able to maintain my watches Originally I was going to practice on simpler hand winding movement, like the Omega 620, which is cheap and easy to find, but because of this coronovirus stuff, couldn't yet import them Today I received and opened up an Omega 552, from a 166.022 - I love the case, so I decided to endure the auto movement Anyway, the crystal was cracked, maybe pre-broken, as I used a metal latch tool. I cracked the crystal, not the front part, but just part of the edge, should've read this forum first and applied the syringe air pushing method, since I believe it was pre-broken, I'll attempt to glue it and use the crystal anyway - maybe the previous opener of the watch just re-inserted the crystal that way Onto the good stuff, my approach to watch servicing will be disassembly, ultrasonic cleaning, re-assembly with minimal lubrication - so I started by removing the winding mechanism, and the tiniest of screws fell onto my hand - and with the auto winding mechanism removed, and this small screw outside the movement, the movement started working again! (The damage to the dial was pre-done, I'm a newbie hobbyist, whoever tried to yank that dial out of the movement/case, was probably sub-human :) My question(s): 1) Is this small screw from this movement / could it be the reason the movement wasn't running, maybe it was yanked in somewhere? 2) Do you guys think I can / should just re-assemble the watch without the auto winding mechanism? I don't enjoy it, and since the watch started ticking without it, I thought I could just re-assemble it and give it a go, without risking things with my amateur involvement (this is the cleanest vintage watch movement I've ever seen, no dust/buildup inside etc.) Worst case scenario, I was going to buy a replacement movement, but hopefully not needed
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