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Another new member looking for a new hobby

Rhobin

By Rhobin
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Rhobin Member

Rhobin

Posted
Posted

Hi,

I'm based in a small town in British Columbia.

I stumbled across some watch repair videos on YouTube which caught my attention. I always got in trouble dismantling watches when I was a kid, as once they were apart, I couldn't put them back together. 

Now I'm older, fatter and have less hair, I want to have another go at learning about watches but this time it will be a personal choice to go to my room to think about what I've done.

I've bought some initial equipment, signed up to Mark's on-line lessons, and after abusing my shiny 6497 clone movement, I have renewed respect for the skills and patience needed.

Luckily for any watches that have half a chance of running that are within the reach of my tools of torture, I've managed to buy a lot of scrap movements in different states of disrepair, which I hope to improve my basic skills before attempting any ‘repair or maintenance’ work.

Cheers,

Robin

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watchweasol Distinguished Member

watchweasol

Posted
Posted

Welcome to the forum As JohnR always advocates, sort through the watches and find on that works before you start, that way if you goof it up you know that you did it. Starting with a broken one gives you only dis assembly /reassembly practice and if it doesnt start working  when you finish you dont kow if its somthing you did or if it was irrepreably damaged in the first place. So start with one that at least ticks or tries to. Attached are a couple of documents to help you along.        cheers

1612608791_ToolsfortheHobbyist (2) (1).pdf TZIllustratedGlossary.pdf

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    • Murks
      2813

      By Murks · Posted

      Yea a have given it a full service this movement is chinese 2813 whats the left angle for this movement does anyone knows  and how to do a remove the default 52 degrees on my timegrapher?
    • VWatchie
      Epilame / Fixodrop

      By VWatchie · Posted

      Sure! Some very accomplished repairers never use epilame! I have often wondered if it is worth the trouble. Not using epilame will shorten the service intervals though, but that could be better perhaps both for the owner and the repairer!? Speaking of oiling, I just read this: After WWII in the 1950s the first Synthetic Oils came on the market. Most watchmakers did not rush to use these oils since they were bad for business now that the watch serviced with Synthetic oil would not come back to him for service for another 5-7 years he would lose a lot of income. ~Ofrei.com   Anyway, I wouldn't be surprised if it would be more correct to think of epilame as a binder rather than a repellant. Until convinced otherwise that's how I will think of epilame.
    • Neverenoughwatches
      Epilame / Fixodrop

      By Neverenoughwatches · Posted

      I read that same article last night  H.  I think epilame is too much headache for me, sources aren't always accurate, some conflicting. Such is the GRAVITY of this situation, Is it ok if i just STICK  to a thixotropic oil 🤣
    • VWatchie
      Epilame / Fixodrop

      By VWatchie · Posted

      Not sure I follow along. As I stated in one of my previous posts, the epilame will remain intact between rubbing parts as long as the surface is lubricated by oil or grease. Maybe it's just a coincidence, but note how the epilame-treated surface is illustrated in @Waggy's post. It looks like the oil is exposed to a binder (epilame!) so that it can't move sideways.
    • Neverenoughwatches
      Epilame / Fixodrop

      By Neverenoughwatches · Posted

      The epilame under the oil will also be removed  Unless the oil makes a barrier between the epilame and the escape teeth 😅 I think i need two strong coffees now 🤣
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