Jump to content

Repair A Omega Quartz 1310 Movement ?


Recommended Posts

I have a really nice Omega Mariner . But it seems to have broken or something is caput  ? I have measured the coil and it reads .0268K ohm ? So that looks alright . There aren't so many parts that could brake . I don't now where to send it if i fail to repair it ? How service and repair this old movement . Hard to find parts to. It's missing the protection over the coil as i understand . Do i have the wrong battery ? The spec says 354 .But there are now such batteries any more .I took the same that was there before 344 . 

 

post-644-0-72023900-1429634415_thumb.jpgpost-644-0-36346400-1429634379_thumb.jpgpost-644-0-19207100-1429634341_thumb.jpg

 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Sounds like part of the electronics. With that said, I'm not familiar with this one but it is customary to name some sections by block letters (hopefully independent and interchangeable sections). An example is found in the schematics for some Seikos I've worked on. I hope everything turns out ok in the end, being omega could be a problem since the movement might have been modified.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Cousins have parts list download and some parts are available from them. However the electronic parts are now shown as obsolete so they don't stock them, so a search around is needed.  Parts are as follows:

1310-9100 - Electronic Module (also called circuit) - this is the part that generates the pulse etc for the coil/motor and has an integrated circuit module.

1310-9200 - Motor Module (includes coil) - this works the rotation of the motor rotor.

1310-9214 - Coil Block only (shown in Cousins parts but not in Omega parts list download)

1310-9230 - Magnetic Shield for coil area.

Happy hunting.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Never put a Renata battery in this watch . Changed to a Energizer and it's working again.

I'm delighted that it's working fine now Roger, but I cannot understand how a another make would make the difference assuming both were new.

Can anyone explain why?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I can't understand that either ? Maybe they are different made in the contact area . So they doesn't contact the parts they need . I actually send an Omega f300 for service a while ago . I changed the battery for a Renata and it didn't work . Maybe it would have been enough to change the battery for some other make ? I measured the battery and it's 1,58 volt .So there is volts .

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 5 months later...

I have also problems with the same Omega Mariner 32 khz with the cal. 1310. Sometimes it is running regularely, then it stops to work completely. After some hours it starts running again with around double speed than normally, Then after hours or even days it returns to normal speed. The movement was serviced twice but the problem persists. Do you have an idea what could be the reason for this problem?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I'm delighted that it's working fine now Roger, but I cannot understand how a another make would make the difference assuming both were new.

Can anyone explain why?

The Energizer must be a different size/fitting other than that it's a mystery to me.   :jig: 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The Energizer must be a different size/fitting other than that it's a mystery to me.   :jig: 

I think the + side is a little different on the Renata battery . That makes it shortcut or not come in contact with the pole? Shall see if i could find a Renata and an other battery to compare with . 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Renata to the right . As you see it's much flatter on the top . Not the same size on the batteries but every Renata looks the same . The other battery to the left is a Energizer . 

attachicon.gifDSC04688.JPG

What you need is one of these. This a pic not of the one I have but is the same style as I have I use it a lot when deciding what size is needed.

 

 

post-234-0-26484000-1443805560.png

Link to comment
Share on other sites

A reminder when measuring coil resistance of a coil that is in an electric watch unless you can isolate the coil you need a special meter. The meter needs to supply a very low voltage otherwise you risk turning on the circuit and getting a false reading. The coil resistance of this watch is supposed to be between 2K and 2.2 K ohms.

 

Then there is the other problem this watch was designed to run on a Mercury battery 1.34 V and the modern silver cell at 1.55 can cause problems in some of these watches. I've attached the Omega PDF that explains this.

 

John

 

 

No 23 Modification of electronic module_Calibre 1310 E_2004_.pdf

  • Like 3
Link to comment
Share on other sites

A reminder when measuring coil resistance of a coil that is in an electric watch unless you can isolate the coil you need a special meter. The meter needs to supply a very low voltage otherwise you risk turning on the circuit and getting a false reading. The coil resistance of this watch is supposed to be between 2K and 2.2 K ohms.

 

Then there is the other problem this watch was designed to run on a Mercury battery 1.34 V and the modern silver cell at 1.55 can cause problems in some of these watches. I've attached the Omega PDF that explains this.

 

John

Thanks John another piece of the never ending learning curve added.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks for posting the PDF file John, it explains things perfectly! Not only that, it shows that Roger's movement requires the modification.

Looks easy to do? But wonder what kind of diod to use? Have a spare Tissot movement with broken coil. Could test to modified that first . If only now which value the diod should be . 

 

What you need is one of these. This a pic not of the one I have but is the same style as I have I use it a lot when deciding what size is needed.

 

 

attachicon.gifScreen Shot 2015-10-02 at 18.04.52.png

I now they are different .Couldn't find a Renata in the right size at home. This was just to show the difference in the + side . As u see the Renata is much flatter on top . This batteries was not the ones i used. These i took from the scrap bag. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I search a little and found this .In Dutch :) .My dutch is not so good but can see that the diod is a 1N139. Going to order some from Ebay .http://www.horlogeforum.nl/t/omega-1310/47841

 

On the horlogerforum they make the mistake to use colour codes from resitors.

 

Any germanium diode is good, the only problem is it must be small.

 

A diode cuts a little of the voltage. For an germanium 0.3 volts. For an silicium 0.2 volts.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

On the horlogerforum they make the mistake to use colour codes from resitors.

 

Any germanium diode is good, the only problem is it must be small.

 

A diode cuts a little of the voltage. For an germanium 0.3 volts. For an silicium 0.2 volts.

Perfect then i can search one on Ebay . As i have a Tissot 2100 movement that will be my testing movement .  Same movement as the Omega 1310 . 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Perfect then i can search one on Ebay . As i have a Tissot 2100 movement that will be my testing movement .  Same movement as the Omega 1310 . 

It must be in series arrangement with the motor connection.

When it does not work dan you have to turn the diode.

The current flow is oneway.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites



  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • New Great wheel arrived, rebuilt the watch and managed not to break anything. Had a minor issue with a screw I'd found to use to secure the date corrector wheel - it was fouling the escape wheel. Changed for a shorter one and it seems all good.    Running pretty well I think - not yet adjusted it, will let it run for 24 hours first. 
    • Either of those ideas might work. Did you try putting a thin layer of rodico on the cocktail and then push the screw through it. Afterwards, soak in one dip
    • I would use some binding wire around the part before heating it. It protects the steel from being burned. I know that sounds strange, as you're going to heat it with a blowtorch, but if a part is thin and delicate the steel can literally burn away before your eyes, which isn't funny if you've put hours into the job. I bought some tools steel from Cousins a few years ago which turned out not to be tool steel, because it couldn't be hardened or tempered. I wasn't impressed, as I had spent two hours making the part for it to be useless.
    • Hi that’s what was meant by animal glue “ a glue made from animal products”. Ie bone , skin and other animal residues.  There was a place at Huntington YORK who used to boil down the ingredients. It stunk.   We used it in pellet form in a sort of Bain Marie on a gas ring  it was very good, didn’t think it was around any more with the modern glues, 
    • It's back to the drawing board I'm afraid. As pointed out, the Rodico trick is so fiddly and my pin vice jaws don't close in union. I tried but the screw is so small it's hard to grip the screw in the Rodico without it moving all over the place while trying to get it in the vice. I started to shake too much so gave up before the screw flew off somewhere never to be found again.  I'm now thinking that maybe I could bond the screw on the end of a bit of peg wood and then dissolve the adhesive afterward.  I just had another thought🤔 I have some really small PCB drill bits maybe I could drill a small hole in peg wood and push the screw in, as stated I only need to get the screw started.  Another idea 🤣 Magnetize the screwdriver to hold the screw 🤔 
×
×
  • Create New...