Jump to content

Repair A Omega Quartz 1310 Movement ?


Recommended Posts

I have a really nice Omega Mariner . But it seems to have broken or something is caput  ? I have measured the coil and it reads .0268K ohm ? So that looks alright . There aren't so many parts that could brake . I don't now where to send it if i fail to repair it ? How service and repair this old movement . Hard to find parts to. It's missing the protection over the coil as i understand . Do i have the wrong battery ? The spec says 354 .But there are now such batteries any more .I took the same that was there before 344 . 

 

post-644-0-72023900-1429634415_thumb.jpgpost-644-0-36346400-1429634379_thumb.jpgpost-644-0-19207100-1429634341_thumb.jpg

 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Sounds like part of the electronics. With that said, I'm not familiar with this one but it is customary to name some sections by block letters (hopefully independent and interchangeable sections). An example is found in the schematics for some Seikos I've worked on. I hope everything turns out ok in the end, being omega could be a problem since the movement might have been modified.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Cousins have parts list download and some parts are available from them. However the electronic parts are now shown as obsolete so they don't stock them, so a search around is needed.  Parts are as follows:

1310-9100 - Electronic Module (also called circuit) - this is the part that generates the pulse etc for the coil/motor and has an integrated circuit module.

1310-9200 - Motor Module (includes coil) - this works the rotation of the motor rotor.

1310-9214 - Coil Block only (shown in Cousins parts but not in Omega parts list download)

1310-9230 - Magnetic Shield for coil area.

Happy hunting.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Never put a Renata battery in this watch . Changed to a Energizer and it's working again.

I'm delighted that it's working fine now Roger, but I cannot understand how a another make would make the difference assuming both were new.

Can anyone explain why?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I can't understand that either ? Maybe they are different made in the contact area . So they doesn't contact the parts they need . I actually send an Omega f300 for service a while ago . I changed the battery for a Renata and it didn't work . Maybe it would have been enough to change the battery for some other make ? I measured the battery and it's 1,58 volt .So there is volts .

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 5 months later...

I have also problems with the same Omega Mariner 32 khz with the cal. 1310. Sometimes it is running regularely, then it stops to work completely. After some hours it starts running again with around double speed than normally, Then after hours or even days it returns to normal speed. The movement was serviced twice but the problem persists. Do you have an idea what could be the reason for this problem?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I'm delighted that it's working fine now Roger, but I cannot understand how a another make would make the difference assuming both were new.

Can anyone explain why?

The Energizer must be a different size/fitting other than that it's a mystery to me.   :jig: 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The Energizer must be a different size/fitting other than that it's a mystery to me.   :jig: 

I think the + side is a little different on the Renata battery . That makes it shortcut or not come in contact with the pole? Shall see if i could find a Renata and an other battery to compare with . 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Renata to the right . As you see it's much flatter on the top . Not the same size on the batteries but every Renata looks the same . The other battery to the left is a Energizer . 

attachicon.gifDSC04688.JPG

What you need is one of these. This a pic not of the one I have but is the same style as I have I use it a lot when deciding what size is needed.

 

 

post-234-0-26484000-1443805560.png

Link to comment
Share on other sites

A reminder when measuring coil resistance of a coil that is in an electric watch unless you can isolate the coil you need a special meter. The meter needs to supply a very low voltage otherwise you risk turning on the circuit and getting a false reading. The coil resistance of this watch is supposed to be between 2K and 2.2 K ohms.

 

Then there is the other problem this watch was designed to run on a Mercury battery 1.34 V and the modern silver cell at 1.55 can cause problems in some of these watches. I've attached the Omega PDF that explains this.

 

John

 

 

No 23 Modification of electronic module_Calibre 1310 E_2004_.pdf

  • Like 3
Link to comment
Share on other sites

A reminder when measuring coil resistance of a coil that is in an electric watch unless you can isolate the coil you need a special meter. The meter needs to supply a very low voltage otherwise you risk turning on the circuit and getting a false reading. The coil resistance of this watch is supposed to be between 2K and 2.2 K ohms.

 

Then there is the other problem this watch was designed to run on a Mercury battery 1.34 V and the modern silver cell at 1.55 can cause problems in some of these watches. I've attached the Omega PDF that explains this.

 

John

Thanks John another piece of the never ending learning curve added.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks for posting the PDF file John, it explains things perfectly! Not only that, it shows that Roger's movement requires the modification.

Looks easy to do? But wonder what kind of diod to use? Have a spare Tissot movement with broken coil. Could test to modified that first . If only now which value the diod should be . 

 

What you need is one of these. This a pic not of the one I have but is the same style as I have I use it a lot when deciding what size is needed.

 

 

attachicon.gifScreen Shot 2015-10-02 at 18.04.52.png

I now they are different .Couldn't find a Renata in the right size at home. This was just to show the difference in the + side . As u see the Renata is much flatter on top . This batteries was not the ones i used. These i took from the scrap bag. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I search a little and found this .In Dutch :) .My dutch is not so good but can see that the diod is a 1N139. Going to order some from Ebay .http://www.horlogeforum.nl/t/omega-1310/47841

 

On the horlogerforum they make the mistake to use colour codes from resitors.

 

Any germanium diode is good, the only problem is it must be small.

 

A diode cuts a little of the voltage. For an germanium 0.3 volts. For an silicium 0.2 volts.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

On the horlogerforum they make the mistake to use colour codes from resitors.

 

Any germanium diode is good, the only problem is it must be small.

 

A diode cuts a little of the voltage. For an germanium 0.3 volts. For an silicium 0.2 volts.

Perfect then i can search one on Ebay . As i have a Tissot 2100 movement that will be my testing movement .  Same movement as the Omega 1310 . 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Perfect then i can search one on Ebay . As i have a Tissot 2100 movement that will be my testing movement .  Same movement as the Omega 1310 . 

It must be in series arrangement with the motor connection.

When it does not work dan you have to turn the diode.

The current flow is oneway.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites



  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • So here is the new base (v 2.1), I made it so that the base will fit over and swallow the stump of the hand pusher tool (or at least my clone of the tool), I also reduced the OD of the bottom skirt a little as it looked/felt a little large, here are a few pictures and the fake .pdf file which you need to convert to .zip once downloaded.   The cut-out seen on the below image on the bottom of the base should swallow the OD (40 mm, +0.1 mm tolerance) of the stump and the height of the stump 9.5mm (measured to 9.1mm, but rounded to 9.5mm) - let me know if this works for your tool.   Note, I think you may need to print supports for the new internal shelf created? Modular Movement Holder.pdf  
    • Hi Frank, you have dived headlong into the deep end. Hairspring work has to be the scariest thing a newbie has to tackle. Your hairspring appears to be bent and just putting it back into the regulator would not allow the balance to work properly. It might start oscillating but the performance would not be good. The proper thing to do is to unstud the hairspring, remove the hairspring from the balance, reinstall the hairspring on the stud carrier, reshape the endcurve and centre the collet to the balance jewel hole. This challenge would either make you or break you. Hope that you will be able to fix your watch. Welcome to the world of watchmaking.  Watch this video. It think it'll give you an idea of the task ahead. From your 1st photo, I think you have a etachron type stud. Let me see if I can find a video on how to remove it from the arm.
    • Have read of the Tech Sheet attached on the balance section page 12. It may be bent but until you reposition it back in the regulator pins you'll never know. Cheers CJ 4R35B_4R36A.pdf
    • Aloha All, My Seiko 4R35B movement stopped working today. Upon closer inspection, it looks like the balance spring came out of the regulator pin. This is my first time working on a balance. Any advice on how to get this spring repositioned (back to normal)? I'm pretty sure that while adjusting the beat error on this movement, I must have turned the stud (I didn't even know they turned), and the spring eventually fell out.  Will the spring go back to even spacing when it's back in the pin, or does it look bent? Thanks, Frank  
    • Good job, that band matches the watch perfectly.
×
×
  • Create New...