Jump to content

Remove old screw down crown seal


familyguy

Recommended Posts

I have a dive watch I purchased new, in the early 1970's with ETA auto wind movement, It's looking a bit sad and I would like to get serviced and looking nice again, it is I hope a good candidate as it was only ever serviced by a watchmaker, recently I tried to unscrew the crown, it was very stiff, when it came undone I noticed a black goo around the crown tube, looks as if the seal/o-ring has disintegrated, my question is how to get the goo out of the crown thread, is there a solvent I can soak it in. I did once have a winchester of benzene but was forced to get rid of it on pain of divorce - I'm sure benzene would have done it.

Edited by familyguy
Correct a typo
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • familyguy changed the title to Remove old screw down crown seal

Hi Ditto  old Hippy, having got a new crown then experiment removing the old goo the experience will come in handy for the future,   IPA, Ronsonol, benzine will probably do the trick, finding the correct cleaner will be handy as case back gaskets also get in this state.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Here are pics of the offending parts, movement is an ETA 2783, this is the first time I have removed the stem/crown and I notice that the square section of the stem has a twist in it - is this normal ? I'm assuming it is, as the watch was only ever serviced by a watchmaker and I doubt the stem could transmit enough force to twist the square section, I feel the the stem would break at the thread - the thinnest part.

20201213_095030.jpg

20201213_095107.jpg

20201213_095212.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 12/12/2020 at 4:39 AM, familyguy said:

I did once have a winchester of benzene but was forced to get rid of it on pain of divorce - I'm sure benzene would have done it.

I think you may have had benzine (motor petrol, gasoline) not benzene, the confusion is common among English speakers. Anyway the cleaning agent is not important because to replace the gasket in the crown you have to lift the top washer anyway, as said that's a bit of fiddly work but certainly doable. Or fit a new crown.

 

11 hours ago, familyguy said:

I notice that the square section of the stem has a twist in it - is this normal?

Yes it is, for period of time ETA was making movements with a twisted stem, probably with the idea these would help the clutch wheel pressing, then fortunately they stopped.

 

11 hours ago, rodabod said:

I reckon you may be able to get a matching replacement from cousins if you are based in Europe. 

Even if you're not, Cousins UK ships worldwide for the actual Royal Mail cost.

Link to comment
Share on other sites



  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • A couple of pictures of the front… Sorry, I’m months away from this one, but…I see no obvious signs of bezel removal and it is quite thick so difficult to a grab a lip edge with a crystal lift…good luck…
    • Personally I would salvage the missing screws from some donor movement.  I also bought a random selection of screws "Assortment of Stainless Steel Watch Screws" for next to nothing.  As for using an Alum solution - I had great success with that removing a rusted stem from a stainless steel crown.  The best piece of advice I read on doing that was to keep the solution warm so that the reaction didn't take weeks!  I did it in a couple of hours with the solution in jam jar and the jam jar in a saucepan full of water which I left on an induction hob maintaining about 60C in the Alum solution.
    • I decided that it was time to tackle the piece that I'd set aside as my first project. The subject in question is a Gruen Veri-Thin pocket watch.  It winds and "runs".  On the time grapher, it has reasonable amplitude (240 or so depending on the position), but was loosing close to a minute a day.  The stem also has the annoying tendency to just come out when pulled, which makes it super hard to set the thing.  As with many things this one started sideways and just got more so.  I was able to overcome the mangled "tab" on the back case cover (a well placed, very sharp knife enabled me to get in when I couldn't get a purchase on the mangled tab with a case knife.)   I was then sort of shocked to find that one side of the dial was held down with some sort off tape or adhesive material as someone had broken the dial foot screw on that side and left the broken screw in the mail plate. The loose stem does in fact seem to have been a poorly tightened setting lever screw, but I'm afraid there may still be gremlins in the keyless works.  While I was able to get the stem to stay in by putting everything in the right place and tightening the setting lever screw (before I took it all apart for cleaning and inspection), it just didn't seem to all sit right. The final gremlin showed up when I was taking off the lower cap stones for the balance and escape wheel (yes the Gruen 380 seems to have a cape jewel on the escape wheel).  The balance stone came off fine (but that in fact is the smallest screw I've ever seen.  When I turned the movement around to get the one off the escape wheel setting, I found that the screw head had been mostly sheared off.  After some reading and looking at what I had, I decided to try and tease what was left of the screw out of the hole by nudging what was left with the corner of my smallest screwdriver.  After 20 minutes or so, I was able to get the remains of that screw out. The picture I'm including of the disassembled movement was taken before I got the second cap stone off, so in the picture, it's still attached to the main plate (for those looking carefully, you'll only see the one cap setting in the pic.) Now I'm left with: A broken dial screw inside the main plate that needs to come out A broken cap stone retention screw that I have in my parts tray, but that is strictly useless and needs to be replaced. The need to get another dial foot screw I'm contemplating solving the first problem by soaking the main plate in an alum solution.  I think the main plate is brass and shouldn't be affected, but I have not been able to confirm.  This seems like the easiest option as I can't really access both sides of the screw to use the pricey Bergeon tool (which I don't fancy buying unless I have to.) I have located a couple of donor movements and have questions out about whether or not the include the dial foot screw and prompting for pictures of the dial side so  evaluate the cap stone settings.  I've also found that a supplier in this country does have the cap stone settings, but isn't overly clear about whether the screws are included. Are these the types of things that one can scavenge out of assortments or is it best to just grab one of the donors assuming that they look like they have what I need?  
×
×
  • Create New...