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familyguy last won the day on November 15 2017

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  1. Came across this screw thread chart, I couldn't find a link to it doing a forum search and thought it may be of some use when dealing with unknown threads- it lists quite a few different watch threads you just need to pick through the list to find them. It also lists a lot of what I would call oddball threads, the type that you might come across once every 10 yrs. http://pages.cs.wisc.edu/~bolo/workshop/thread.html
  2. http://mms.epubxp.com/i/891901-nov-2017/76?m4= Page 74 of this E magazine has a watch manufacture article you may find interesting.
  3. Thanks to all for the tips, I did end up removing the barrel and it's bridge as it gave slightly better access to the gears to jiggle them into position I should have realised at the beginning of the assembly phase when I tested the bridge to see how it fitted and found it needed a very slight push to get it seat home fully. Once my oils arrive I'll strip it down again and this time go through the process of lubricating it, I'll also take a good look at the bridge to see if there are any burrs - I've noticed that the hole for the tight locating post has had the word PARTS stamped very close to it, I doubt that this was done in the factory from new, possibly the movement was sold as part of a job lot to the Indian shop making these watches and the PARTS stamping was used as an identifer, there is a possibility that the stamping has distorted the bridge around the hole .
  4. Finally had success ! With no gears in place I noticed that the bridge does not just drop on but needs a slight push - it is ever so slightly tight on one of the locating posts and tends to stay in a partially located position. When trying to locate the gear pivots in the jewel hole if I release pressure on the bridge to allow the gear to be nudged into position, the bridge stays put and jambs the gear so it can't be moved I then have to lever the bridge up just a fraction to allow the gear to be nudged. It is now ticking away amplitude looks to be on the low side - I don't have any lubricants at present and did not oil any thing during re-assembly, thanks to all those that replied.
  5. After nearly 2 hrs straight I finally managed to get the bridge on with all of gears correctly in place, a slight push on the mainspring barrel has the gears spinning. Just to prove it was not a fluke (I wish) I removed the bridge and had another go - back to square one and having the same problems. I'll give it a rest come back to it tomorrow. On the positive side I didn't break or bend any of the gear spindles, they are small I measured one 0.2mm or 8 thou in the old system.
  6. Some pics - I know forum members like pics. Still have not managed to get the bridge on, main concern is breaking the pivots. I put the bridge back without any of the gears just to gauge the amount of pressure needed to seat it - not much, I did notice though it needs to be put on squarely, then assembled with only the two larger gears, took about 20 seconds, I noticed that the jewels are opaque and I can see the pivots moving around through the jewels. It is the circled gear that is causing me headaches. Not about to give up though. A pic also of the stem with the remains of the tube next to it.
  7. Thanks for the info about the type of tool needed probably I will eventually need both. I've assembled the movement and am getting to the pointy and am finding the top bridge a bit difficult to get on - there are 3 pivots that need to line up in their respective jewels, I can get 2 out of 3 but so far lining up all 3 at once has eluded me, I have assembled it with just the bridge and then with only one gear at a time to see which ones are the most difficult to line up and it seems to be the pallet wheel/gear. I've watched a youtube video and it looks so easy (unless the all of the cursing has been edited out), I do have fortunately an excess of patience and I think I'm going to need it all.
  8. I have the movement apart and my noob eyes can see nothing obviously wrong, the movement is a FHF 969 N (stamped under the balance wheel), I've managed to file away the stem tube enough to separate it from the stem (which remains unharmed), I'll try to turn up a replacement first on my 12x24 bench lathe - not ideal for watchmaking I know. The tube is small at 1/10" long and 0.075" in diam but not impossibly small, I have turned things this size before with out issues and if I fail there is always Cousins. I have tried to get the crystal (plastic) back in by hand but it only goes partially in at an angle do I need one of those claw type tools or a crystal press ?
  9. Received my practise watch the other day, a Mumbai special from Ebay, the watch looks pretty decent clean shiny and at first glance could well be described as new. The dial is an obvious repaint but does look quite decent, a working mechanical watch, swiss movement with a new band for around $16 delivered - I have no complaints. A quick wind and away it went, I don't have a dedicated timing machine but I do have TG and Watchoscope on my laptop, a quick test showed a rate of about +75 seconds/day, a beat error of approx 2.5ms the amplitude varied from 140 to 190 deg (not sure why). This is about what I expected so no surprises here. Came back to it after diner and found it had stopped, checking the winder it felt as it was still fairly well wound, I gave it a few more turns and away it went, after taking off the back I let down the main spring and found it had been just about fully wound. I gave it few turns and it came to life only to stop after a few minutes, I found it needed to be almost fully wound to keep going, no matter, it is a practise watch and will be a challenge for me to see if I can (a) strip clean and reassemble without screwing it up and (b) find the cause of it needing to be fully wound to continue running. Had some trouble getting the movement out of the case, the plastic spacer holding the movement central came out with no problems but releasing the winding stem I found it could not be removed as the tube it passed through was too small to allow it through, as I never intend to wear this and my primary concern is working on the movement I decided to pull the tube from the case so I could free the stem, a few moments with long nosed pliers had the stem and tube out - it was tight though and reasonably thick, I had a good hold on it and did not crush it. Although it is possible to strip a movement without the stem in place every thing I have seen/read says put the stem back once the movement is out of the case. With the movement out I gave the case a bit of a look and the plastic crystal just fell out in my hands when I tried to wipe a finger print from the inside. I had hoped the band would be real leather - maybe it is I can't tell, it does have FRACOMINA embossed on it - this is the name of an online fashion store. If I decide to reassemble it to a fully working watch I'll have to either source a new tube or make one - looks pretty small but do-able.The movement is now sitting on my home brew holder and hopefully I'll have time later today to do my first strip and reassemble.
  10. familyguy

    What does this gear wheel do ?

    Thanks for that I can now see the bit of broken spring and the hole where pinion shaft would have passed through.
  11. I've often seen photos of the rear of movements with a gear sitting on top that does not appear to mesh with anything, does it serve a purpose ?
  12. familyguy

    D. I. Y. Watch Timing Machine.

    By the way svorkoetter I take my hat off to you for this post and the great work on the timegrapher, my original training was in electronics and now retired I service/repair/rebuild tube amps on the side, I have scratch built quite a few bits of gear over years and know full well the toll it places on your time, keep up the good work. I have everything needed to knock up a mic and preamp in my junk/spare parts bin so will give it go.
  13. familyguy

    D. I. Y. Watch Timing Machine.

    Not sure if this link has been posted before but just in-case for those that are following this thread some views of the inside (including mic) of a commercial machine, the mic looks to use one of the thin piezo vibration transducers with a built in pre-amp, the TLO71 is essentially identical to a TLO72 but is single rather than dual. https://www.eevblog.com/forum/reviews/weishi-mtg-3000-'multi-function-timegrapher'/
  14. familyguy

    Advice on which movement to start with

    Once again thanks for all of the replies, I was leaning towards the Seiko but following the advice I have purchased a Mumbai special from an Indian Ebay seller, this was the cheapest watch I could find - manual wind. From the ad photos I was able to match the movement photo to one online of a ST96 (I think). I watched a few Youtube videos on Mumbai watches and the general opinion is that while they look nice they are for the most part poorly serviced/assembled so it seems like the perfect watch to practise on, and possibly give me some experience on fault finding. An added bonus is that it has a new band that may even be real leather- I may be able to use it down the track. I have around 4 weeks to wait for it so that will give me time to make a movement holder and source some of the other things I should have. Link to the Mumbai watch on The 'Bay https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/VINTAGE-NIVADA-17J-HAND-WINDING-MOVEMENT-MENS-ANALOG-DIAL-WRIST-WATCH-RA24/263270632785?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649 Thanks for the links about the Unicorn watch it makes interesting reading, I rather like the look of it, I'd like to get it to the stage where is can be worn - fortunately the case is silver so it has no corrosion.
  15. familyguy

    Advice on which movement to start with

    Thanks for all of the replies. I haven't been able to get the Cyma case back off and will wait until I have a better tool, the case already has quite a few marks on it no need to add some extra ones. I removed the Wostok case back see the pic below, the case back has the usual shock resist etc stuff on it and also the number 2809. The same number is also stamped on the inside of the movement just to the left of the hair spring. I Googled this and some are of the opinion that the 2809 movement is a better class of movement I also noticed that the discolouration on the gear near the crown is actually solidified grease, so perhaps all this needs is a good clean and lubricate. Once cleaned up I think it would look quite good with a leather band in place of that ugly expanding band I also Googled Unicorn movement and see that in all probability it was made by Rolex in the early days as their cheap alternative before they settled on the name Tudor - however as the name Rolex is nowhere on the watch it can't really be considered a Rolex although I see in my internet search that some have taken the liberty to do so. With regard to the crystal/glass on this watch is the yellow/amber colour due to age or would it have been made in this way and would it be plastic or glass ?.