Jump to content

Brockbank & Atkins With Platform Escapement


rodabod

Recommended Posts

Just about to clean this one, so thought I’d share some photos. 
 

This maker made some ship’s clocks but also retailed similarly built clocks for the domestic market. The finer examples had a fusee and compensated balance. This one omits the fusee for an intermediate wheel and has a plain balance. However, it’s still quite nice in my opinion. 
 

 

879B5441-F304-49CC-8B24-E59EAC68798D.jpeg

6B914C84-7F4F-4252-B17A-2E324BB34555.jpeg

53807565-C051-4F62-BC10-728D80E3C759.jpeg

C1933FDB-5F4B-4CAF-9CAF-D6E472186DBB.jpeg

  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Wow, that clock exhibits some seriously robust and rugged construction.  It must really weigh something.  Everything looks so precise.  I am not often privileged to see this level of quality in most modern clocks I've opened or worked on (which admittedly is not many; clocks are not my forte).  I enjoy seeing craftsmanship like this. Thanks for the pics.  

  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I have a Brockbank and Atkins bulk head clock a fusee with maintaning power, large temperature compensated balance platform the plates are the same shape, a very heavy built movement. Does it have the original key, movement, dial and key numbers should all match 12617 is the number of my clock which I would think dates it to about 1880's. Does this have a stand they often have a stand that makes them look something like a napoleon hat clock when put together. 

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

2 hours ago, wls1971 said:

I have a Brockbank and Atkins bulk head clock a fusee with maintaning power, large temperature compensated balance platform the plates are the same shape, a very heavy built movement. Does it have the original key, movement, dial and key numbers should all match 12617 is the number of my clock which I would think dates it to about 1880's. Does this have a stand they often have a stand that makes them look something like a napoleon hat clock when put together. 

Thanks for the info. It does have an original key, albeit it’s a number of digits off the number on the dial. Not sure how, unless it was owned alongside others and mixed up. The movement and dial numbers match, and it does also have the wooden stand which makes it look a bit like a Napoleon Hat. I’m glad you mentioned the stand as I thought it was aftermarket and might have binned it!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I’ve had a look at the pallet jewels under a microscope which look good. Escape wheel also looks fine as far as I can see. 

The only issue I can see is that the original garnet lower cap jewel for the balance has a slight amount of pivot wear. If you look at the photo below, you can see the wear which is around 0.1mm wide. I’m tempted to leave it as-is since the cap jewel is a really thick slice of garnet and I can’t imagine managing to find an original. I also don’t really want to spoil the originality. 
 

If the cap jewel does noticeably affect the performance then I think I will possibly either try an additional thin ruby cap jewel on top of the original chaton, or I could turn a new chaton with a ruby jewel. Both options would be reversible. 
 

 

2FD388F9-625E-4C1B-8674-895488ACEFB8.jpeg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I’ve polished the agate jewelled chatons on glass with diamond paste. Removed around 5/100mm from the surface. 
 

Agate doesn’t seem to polish very well to me. It’s a bit crumbly. However, they are now free of the signs of pivot wear. 
 

I’ve decided to oil all of the pivots and cap jewels with HP1300, so will see how that works out. I think the balance is too heavy in weight to use a lighter oil. 

324AA1A9-7136-417A-B05C-5E9763BF720B.jpeg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The next issue which I have, which was possibly predictable is excess end-shake on the balance which I believe is causing the balance spokes rub slightly. I was hoping the lower chaton would seat itself with the same distance from the jewel hole, but evidently not. This may be since the chaton is cone-shaped, so it’s not sitting any closer than prior to being polished. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 3 weeks later...

So, I used my jewelling set to correct the balance end-shake by increasing the depth of the chaton which carries the lower cap jewel.

I also noticed that the same needed to be done for the escape wheel’s lower cap jewel as the polishing of the stone had caused the alignment of the pallet stones and escape wheel teeth to shift slightly. 

Finally, I rounded the lower balance pivot and burnished it. I’ve added some photos below to show the stages:

- Original pivot with scoring and flattened end. 

- Pivot after polishing to a round profile. I used a soft polisher to do this to avoid leaving any abrasive embedded in the pivot. 

- Pivot after burnishing with a Bergeon “pivot rounding” burnisher which works surprisingly well. 

The balance swings for a few minutes under its just own momentum now, so negligible friction as far as I can tell. I’m getting around 225 degrees amplitude which I reckon is probably reasonably for an English lever escapement, but I’d be interested to read about what might be typical for this type and age. 
 

 

0B94896C-DB73-4480-83CC-9770476B72C9.jpeg

B3407816-7F87-4675-82E7-0D8B4B172C52.jpeg

40891DA3-744E-4294-AF90-51BC0DB072A4.jpeg

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.



  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • Yes i did eventually realise that the oil will act as a barrier, I'm sure the discussion will continue. Ive had two oleophobic coffees ( added coconut ) and in the meantime i have this just delivered to take my mind off epilame for the time being. My favourite type of dial, its a beautiful looking watch traditional English made and it runs,  the ticktock is phenomenal,  i can hear it across my living room .  You wont believe how much it was. Thats interesting about synthetic oils , i thought the same, going from a 2 year service to 5 years is a big drop in income for service folk.  I expect some did well when they embraced the use of synthetic,  probably drawing in more customers than those that didn't use the new fangled substances , i bet fairly short lived though. The more frequent service makes more sense to me, not for just the service but for the regular check up inspections that might pick up impending faults. As far as epilame goes, wouldn't it be great to be able to fumigate the complete movement in a sealed jar of heated stearic acid, 🤔 now theres a thought 😅.
    • Imm going to close the discussion by attaching the photo of my super-titanium after several vicissitudes finally working. Purchased as not working I replaced the battery and for a stroke of luck I found its semi-new solar panel which, having verified its operation, seems to recharge the accumulator perfectly. I had taken this watch almost by bet, with 40 euros I brought it back to life. The initial half idea was to resell it to finance another purchase, but.. it's definitely a nice item. It would need to check the impermeability but it's a pleasure to see it on the wrist 😃
    • In fact the secret is to go gently and find the way without forcing, and the movement enters without problems
    • Yea a have given it a full service this movement is chinese 2813 whats the lift angle for this movement does anyone knows  and how  do a remove the default  of 52 degrees on my timegrapher?   Hi you said my lift angle is default how do a remove this from my timegrapher?
    • Sure! Some very accomplished repairers never use epilame! I have often wondered if it is worth the trouble. Not using epilame will shorten the service intervals though, but that could be better perhaps both for the owner and the repairer!? Speaking of oiling, I just read this: After WWII in the 1950s the first Synthetic Oils came on the market. Most watchmakers did not rush to use these oils since they were bad for business now that the watch serviced with Synthetic oil would not come back to him for service for another 5-7 years he would lose a lot of income. ~Ofrei.com   Anyway, I wouldn't be surprised if it would be more correct to think of epilame as a binder rather than a repellant. Until convinced otherwise that's how I will think of epilame.
×
×
  • Create New...