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Posted

Hey guys 

Just a quick question .The friction spring for the sweep second pinion. Does it go on top of the pinion or on  the pinion at one side or under the pinion?

cheers

gary

Posted

I've not worked on the 283, but others (and old Rolex) the spring goes on the end of the pinion. Sometimes with oil, but usually dry.

Posted

Usually to get the correct answer it would help to post a photograph. Otherwise you get the correct answer above but is it the correct answer for your watch? I was looking at the parts list and it looks like the spring that does not go on top.

omega 283 spring.JPG

Posted

I've never seen a spring like that one...

image.png.84f5af264a8d31436dba102efed5ce92.pngimage.png.ac0fcd90c70180467570be96c01029f6.png 

This is what I'm used to seeing. But the Omega part number agrees...

Posted

Sorry guys

here are pics. It was lying flat. And i just bent the end getting the bridge off. Well something else to sort.

What do yer think top middle bottom?

cheers

gary

IMG_20201020_202311.jpg

IMG_20201020_202315.jpg

IMG_20201020_202317.jpg

Posted

It's the amusing problem with watch repair lots and lots of variations. All these companies had clever ideas for doing things sometimes I think to get around patents other times perhaps to have their own patents or just because They like torturing the watchmaker.

The problem with your watch is it's cold and trying to find a really old tech sheet is a problem. I think with this one it goes underneath because If its on top I don't know if there's enough clearance between the pivot and the little bridge that holds it in place.

Posted

The springs goes underneath the pinion and the bridge on top, there is to be a .02mm clearance between the pionion and jewel thats in the upper bridge. Oil top and bottom interfaces of the pinion with the spring and the jewel. The spring is to hold the pinion high enough to engage leaves with the other wheel.

Both the spring and minute arbour look like they have had it, I am not sure if oiling would be enough, I would polish both.

Good luck.

Posted
1 minute ago, Nucejoe said:

The springs goes underneath the pinion and the bridge on top, there is to be a .02mm clearance between the pionion and jewel thats in the upper bridge. Oil top and bottom interfaces of the pinion with the spring and the jewel. The spring is to hold the pinion high enough to engage leaves with the other wheel.

Both the spring and minute arbour look like they have had it, I am not sure if oiling would be enough, I would polish both.

Good luck.

Some say the clearance is not neccessary and the pinion should barely rub on both side, but in this case no clearance might eat amplitude or even stop the movement couple of months down the line.

Posted

This is how your spring should look.

Your looks a bit bent out of shape, but as long as it pushes up in the correct place on the underside of the sweep second pinion, all will be good.

As has already been said,  the brake spring (which is made from beryllium copper) pushes from underneath the pinion and needs a small dot of grease on the spring where it makes contact with the underneath of the pinion leaves.

It tends to be obvious which way it pushes the sweep second pinion, either from the top of bottom, when you see the spring in place without the sweep second pinion. The spring will show it is pushing down or pushing up, unless it has been badly mis-shappened like yours.

IMG_1844.jpg

Posted

I could be wrong, but I think it may have been the intention that the fancier beryllium springs were left dry. The material has a unique ability to work against other metals without wear. I’ve not seen it mentioned on Omega tech sheets in terms of lubrication. I used to always oil them but then also needed to bend them to increase the friction, so now I just leave them as-is. Would be interested to know if anyone has an original tech sheet which mentions them. 

Posted

Had a look through several tech sheets and none mentioned the spring until I found this one (Cal 591) which says to oil it. So.... I think I’ll start oiling them again!

 

 

B46EC8E4-DC66-43E8-B003-06A0CFF698A2.jpeg

Posted

OOOH! Can I have a copy of the Omega oiling chart(s) you have please?

I have many Omega caliber parts lists but no oiling charts, and I'll be doing the 565 as soon as my snake oil arrives...

Posted
2 hours ago, Tudor said:

Can I have a copy of the Omega oiling chart(s) you have please?

The problem is this watch is too old we need something newer with equivalent spring to see what the recommendation is. But if you'd like an Omega oiling guide you can find it In the list at the link below.The reason there is a list is it covers all of Omega's working instructions that cousins has which is not all of them unfortunately. But you might find something else of interest in the list also. You're looking for number 40 by the way.

Then the problem with omega having of these working instructions or the equivalent for some time that would explain why we find lubrication instructions sometimes lacking in the regular technical guide because they want you to look at the lubrication guide instead.

https://www.cousinsuk.com/document/search?SearchString=Working

Posted

That, is an excellent resource, thank you!

I have downloaded all the Working Instructions there, so I have them for future reference, even though I don't foresee working on a ceramic case Speedmaster any time soon...

I have harvested documents from Cousin's in the past, but hadn't come across these. Much appreciated.

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