Jump to content

Leaning hairspring


Chopin

Recommended Posts

I was putting back together a 70s Seiko chronograph and noticed that the hairspring had bad amplitude. It was like this when I got it.

I disassembled the balance ensemble and saw that the hairspring is leaning on one side quite a lot. I checked to see if it was the stud's own weight but it doesn't seem to be it.

Any pointers? Did it bend somewhere along the coils ? The movement is in good shape with no damaged parts. 

20201018_123411.thumb.jpg.6c885d57af1913af488ec52bde574b84.jpg20201018_123209.thumb.jpg.cb6d0e4d3fec3f8f3547727087f6b3ce.jpg20201018_123241.thumb.jpg.e41f545c5acc6bb2b13c28446ab0e92f.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Is it touching anything when assembled? 

If you are sure its not the stud, here is where you need to go, with any type of alteration of a hairspring be very careful it doesn't take much to turn it into a complete nightmare.  

20201018_123241.thumb.jpg.e41f545c5acc6bb2b13c28446ab0e92f.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

As a general test for leaning coil , hold the balance assembly vertical.

Where OH shows, seem to have been pushed down, do not attempt raising by getting your screwdriver under it, try by manipulating the inner coil where the bend starts.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

There could be a number of things. I suggest you look at all parts of the escapement. Make sure all the jewels are clean and are in there fittings correctly, if you removed end stones have you put them back in the same way as you removed them. Is the impulse jewel clean and not loose same goes for pallet jewels. Have you used the correct oil for the escapement. Is the hairspring tight on the staff. What is the end shake like. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

All parts have been cleaned and properly lubricated. Nothing is damaged. All were fit back correctly.

I'm starting to wonder if the mainspring might be the culprit here.

I've only assembled the movement with the bare minimum (withoutchrono, calendar, etc.) and the amplitude is still low.

I don't have a mainspring winder so I didn't remove it o see what it's like. I did clean up the barrel. Tried both with and without lubricant inside, same outcome.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I don't have a timegrapher but it's very low. Any lower and the balance would no longer rotate. 

Is it possible that something else could cause this? The mainspring seems ok to my untrained eye as I look at it sitting inside the barrel.

Keep in mind that this is the amplitude that I get if the center seconds chrono hand is enabled. If I have all the chrono parts installed and I don't turn on the chrono function the amplitude is even lower.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I agree with OH about the problem being at the inner coil, likely is touching so the watch won't really run. I met a same one recently, I think I had lifted with spring.

Mark correcting a same hairspring below

A timegrapher is absolutely needed for this type of work, and as noted above this is delicate work, there is no more good availability of these balances, so unless one is absolutely able and sure it would be better to give it to a professional. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Well, I think that I've leveled the hairspring but that didn't change anything. Amplitude is still very low.

If I rotate the mainspring barrel with my tweezers the amplitude will still be low. This should rule out the mainspring, right ?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

54 minutes ago, Chopin said:

Well, I think that I've leveled the hairspring but that didn't change anything. Amplitude is still very low.

 

On 10/18/2020 at 2:36 AM, Chopin said:

hairspring had bad amplitude

I find this is an interesting discussion that amplitude is controlled by the hairspring? What about all those other thing is that affect amplitude should I just forget about those in the future?

A really interesting diagnostic tool is a timing machine it be really interesting to see this watch Timed in dial-up, dial down and at least one crown position preferably more than one. Amazing how many things we can see. In fact for the timing machine you can see things that you cannot see any other way.

Then yes they hairspring can affect amplitude but it's not the only thing. I notice this appears to be a Seiko chronograph? The problem with chronograph watches are there's all sorts of additional gears that could be robbing you of power. What was the condition of the watch in before you serviced?'s did you notice anything that looked undesirable in the servicing?

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The watch seemed to have low amplitude from the beginning I got it. It had no major functioning issues.

I wonder if the fact that one of the pallet jewels isn't fully inserted might have anything to do with this. (left one)

20201020_183724.thumb.jpg.669bd936709fbdb34feb57ba230e5027.jpg20201020_183411.thumb.jpg.328b9eb115398e5f6ebde898ed4a1ad5.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I think you'll find with all Seiko watches the amplitude is low. Then I think you will find that most watch companies could care less about the amplitude for the most part except 24 hours later. They're much more concerned about timekeeping.

I still think one of those modern nifty devices called a timing machine would be helpful here.

Then that's a nice pallet fork picture but it be helpful if it was in the watch. There are escapement checks to make sure things are right that's the only way we can tell if the stones or where there supposed to be.

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

 Do you see any sign ( under high magnifiction and good light) indicating pallets may have moved?  Not fully inserted doesn't indicate wrong adjust/position of the pallet. Also check pallet face for wear, scratch or chipped off etc.

Pallets might need adjustment, but no way to tell by position of the pallet.

A hesitation appears in oscilation, looks to slow down and pick up speed again, if so, that has to do with faulty, dirty or wobbling escape wheel.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 10/18/2020 at 1:25 PM, Chopin said:

 

I don't have a timegrapher but it's very low. Any lower and the balance would no longer rotate. 

 

I want to say I did not think of this. I read about it on this forum.

If you have a smart phone with slow motion video, you can video the balance for 10 seconds or so and then replay it at slow speed. This will allow you to see a more accurate view of amplitude.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites



  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • The part was how it fell out of the movement - the train wheel bridge wasn’t screwed in.    I’ll probably dismantle the part, if I can, to work it out.    The train of wheels ran fine - it was only once the keyless works were installed I noticed the problem. 
    • Hello, I am about 5 months into watchmaking and I love it!   The attention to precise detail is what really attracts me to it. (and the tools!) I am working on a 16 jewel 43mm pocket watch movement.   There are no markings besides a serial number (122248) .  The balance staff needs replacement. The roller side pivot broke off.  I successfully removed the hairspring using Bergeon 5430's.  I successfully removed the roller using Bergeon 2810.   Did i mention I love the tools?! I removed the staff from the balance wheel using a vintage K&D staff removal tool  with my Bergeon 15285 (that's the one that comes with a micrometer adjustment so it can be used as a jewel press as well as a traditional staking tool...it's sooooo cool...sorry..  can you tell i love the tools?) No more digressing..  I measured the damaged staff in all the relevant areas but I have to estimate on some because one of the pivots is missing. A = Full length  A= 4.80mm  (that's without the one pivot...if you assume that the missing pivot is the same length as the other pivot (I'm sure it's not)  then A = 5.12 mm...(can I assume 5.00mm here?) F=  Hair spring collet seat  F=  .89mm   (safe to assume .90 here? .. I am sure that my measurement's would at least contain  .01 mm error ?) G = balance wheel seat  G = 1.23 mm  (1.20mm?) H  =  roller staff  H =  .59mm  (.60 mm?) B  = bottom of the wheel to roller pivot   B  = 2.97mm  (3.00 mm?)     here I am estimating  again because this pivot is missing. So my friends, and I thank you profusely,  can you point me in the right direction as to how to proceed? Do i buy individual staffs?  or an assortment?   Since I don't know exactly the name of the manufacturer, will that be a fatal hindrance?   Tbh, I'm not even sure what country of origin this movement is. Thank you!    
    • Thats why i asked that question earlier, what happens if lubrication is placed directly on top of epilame ?  As opposed to walled within its non epilamed area . I'm not saying its right, i have no idea , just asking questions. 
    • thinking of where epilam should be removed did you know there was a patent that covers this? At least for the escapement I'm attaching it. GB1057607A-1 epilame.pdf
    • Back home...printing now.  Will report results
×
×
  • Create New...