Jump to content

Best way to film a teardown?


Recommended Posts

So, I’ve got myself in a pickle by tearing down a movement I had no experience with... without taking photos/video. 

I’m interested in people’s video setups for those of you who film what you work on. Anyone willing to share their “studio” setup?

Thanks!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hello and welcome to the forum  If you post some pictures of the movement , caliber and make members will  be able to help.  Normaly we use a mobile phone or digital cameras and take pictures at each stage. There are others who video the tear down and re assemble.  there are quite a few of the latter on the site available through the search function in the top right of the home page.                    

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks - I'm looking for similar and haven't found video of a teardown (Hamilton 772). What I DID find is another 772 movement on eBay - so I purchased and I'll do another teardown, only this time, video along the way.

I tried taking some photos with my Nikon, even with a macro lens.  And interestingly enough, my iPhone does a much better close-up job.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I just use a compact camera. There's no secret to it. What I find an absolute must, is to keep the sub-groups of parts together and photograph them. Then, If anything gets mixed up or goes missing during cleaning, I can get it back in the right group, with the right screws.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I use my ipad and take pictures as I go, working in the reverse order as the reassembly progresses 

I also group the pieces in separate areas and, once completed, take a picture of the completely stripped watch parts. 

I do that  just in case bits get mixed up or, heaven forbid, lost!

It's no use relying on the "oh, I don't need to take a picture of them bits, I'll remember what I have just done

and where they go."

No, you won't!  And  chances are, if you are unsure how to do something..................you'll try the wrong way first and use up a lot of frustration and time in the process.

The problem with that, is the frustration never runs out and is self replacing. (Unlike a nice pint!)

I also keep most of the pictures to use as a reference.

 

 

 

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

1 hour ago, BrianR said:

I’m using this cheap as chips digital scope. Simply focus and tap the top for a photo or video, here’s an example of a photo I took earlier today. Need a lap top

I have a similar one and it takes great photos and video, but I don't think I could record an actual teardown with it as the maximum distance of the camera to the deck is insufficient to allow one to get in there with tools while recording - especially without blocking the camera's view of the good stuff.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 3 months later...
On 8/21/2020 at 11:05 AM, Negot8or said:

So, I’ve got myself in a pickle by tearing down a movement I had no experience with... without taking photos/video. 

I’m interested in people’s video setups for those of you who film what you work on. Anyone willing to share their “studio” setup?

Thanks!

I usually do not record video, but definitely take photos. Taking pictures with iPhone via microscope is the perfect way, but sometimes it is just easier to use the same phone with x10 loupe as shown below.

IMG_1971 - Copy.JPG

IMG_1972 - Copy.JPG

IMG_1969 - Copy.JPG

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Forgot to mention that no timegrapher is required during disassembly, visual inspection, cleaning, drying, re-assembling, oiling, winding... what else... oh yes, during attaching the watch strap or bracelet, balance staff replacement, crystal replacement, hydrostatic pressure test ?and it's definitely not needed for taking photographs... I think ??

  • Haha 1
  • Confused 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.



  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • Hell0 @nevenbekriev. Thank you for your advice. I have removed the old setting using my staking set--I will keep the KIF spring, since it is still good.  I am awaiting the replacement setting, and will update when I do that. In the mean time, I looked at the escape wheel and it looks ok. What do you think?    
    • Aloha All, I recently bought this Seitz tool on eBay, but it is missing some pushers reamers.  I ended up ordering new parts for those that were missing before I received the actual Seitz tool (bad idea).   Upon inspecting the pushers/bits, I noticed 23 of the 56 provided with the set had no numbers. Further inspection revealed a huge difference in the quality of those unnumbered.  Do all Seitz pushers/bits have a number on them?  I'm pretty sure that 33 of the 56 I received are cheap Chinese knockoffs.  The worst part is that I ordered $80 of parts to replace the missing pushers/bits, and now I'm looking to return the tool. I'm not crazy, right? If these are Seitz parts, they should all be numbered, correct? The first two pictures are the Seitz (numbered), and the other pictures are the suspect parts.  Will I even be able to get a refund?  Thanks, Frank     
    • It was £10 + min fee, total £16, could not leave it there. Its a Stanton A.D.2. http://stanton-instruments.co.uk/
    • Chief- The picture below shows the three parts from the dial side that are most useful to "fingerprint" a movement in conjunction with the diameter of the movement.  That's why forum participants are always asking for dial side photos in posts asking for identification.  As far as the setting lever screw, it actually sits loose in the main plate. The threads engage the setting lever below, and the elongated stem above the shoulder sticks through a hole in one of the bridge plates so that it's held captive if unscrewed all the way.  So you may be fine as far as that goes. 
    • So I found what I believe is the setting lever screw! Am I right in thinking the screw next to the click is the correct one for the setting lever? However if it is, it doesn't fit in the hole which I believe is for it! I can get the lever to sit nicely on the stem and line up with a hole, but the screw only goes as far as the shoulder and stops. It's as though the hole is too small! The dial side has been disassembled by the way, the other wheels are in my tray
×
×
  • Create New...