Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted (edited)

I'm reassembling my first Seiko movement, a calibre 7s36B, and I'm about to lubricate the second reduction wheel. According to Seiko's technical guide Seiko's S-6 Silicon Grease should be used. CousinsUK has it in stock (link here). Anyway, it's pretty expensive and I don't expect to service any similar Seiko movement any time soon (very educational, not for beginners, movement to service but right now I suffer from a "Seiko and Orient fatigue" ;)).

So, my question is; do you think I could use Bergeon's KT22 - Silicone Grease (which I happen to have at hand) as a good or decent replacement (link here)? If not, I'd appreciate any other recommendations!

Edited by VWatchie
Posted

It's usually accepted to use HP1000 or HP1300 instead of S6. I use the later on the 2nd reduction wheel.

  • Like 1
Posted

I wouldn't follow the Seiko guide too closely. There's the obviously questionable suggestion that you oil the pallet pivots, and there's the use of "S-6" in parts of the train. That's a grease, and I know of no other manufacturer that call for the use of grease in any part of the train in any caliber this size. I would improvise and use HP1300 there like any other automatic device. I would however use some grease on pawl and ratchet teeth on the second reduction wheel. I can see that wearing down over time without a heavier lubricant.

  • Like 2
Posted
30 minutes ago, CaptCalvin said:

There's the obviously questionable suggestion that you oil the pallet pivots, and there's the use of "S-6" in parts of the train.

We had another member recently looking for reassurance about using Seiko lubricants, but no amount of good reasoning prevented him from spending on that. Probably caused by blind faith in written material over relying on other's experience when it comes to a question asked many times on this forum alone.

Quote

I would however use some grease on pawl and ratchet teeth on the second reduction wheel. I can see that wearing down over time without a heavier lubricant.

I use 8301 there. A bit messy and natural based, still better than leaving it dry like the factory does.

  • Like 1
Posted
38 minutes ago, CaptCalvin said:

I would however use some grease on pawl and ratchet teeth on the second reduction wheel.

So perhaps Moebius 9501 or Moebius 9504 grease?

Posted
42 minutes ago, CaptCalvin said:

I would however use some grease on pawl and ratchet teeth on the second reduction wheel. I can see that wearing down over time without a heavier lubricant.

 

6 minutes ago, jdm said:

I use 8301 there. A bit messy and natural based, still better than leaving it dry like the factory does.

Seiko's technical guide recommends S-6 silicon grease for the second reduction wheel and it would seem some of you would prefer a thicker oil like D5 or HP-1300 whereas @jdm and @CaptCalvin prefer a grease. According to CousinsUK 8301 contains graphite and is similar to Seiko S-4 and is the recommended grease for the first reduction wheel.

Hmm... Since S-6 is a grease I believe a grease would be the better option. So, how about some Moebius 9501 as I have it?

Posted

Apart from the grease/heavy oil aspect, silicone grease is very difficult to remove once applied.  If it migrates to other parts there could be problems in store.  I worked in the lubes industry and we avoided silicone whenever we could as we could not make other lubes on the same plant until it had been mechanically cleaned!  There are oils (not watch types) that contain silicone but these are normally for larger mechanisms.  HP1300 would be my choice, but if grease then 9501 as this is quite a soft/oily grease (silicone grease tends to be stiffer).  Just my thoughts.

  • Like 1
  • Thanks 1
Posted (edited)
2 hours ago, VWatchie said:

So perhaps Moebius 9501 or Moebius 9504 grease?

I'm not sure it's too critical. There are no wrong answers here. I used Molykote Dx as it's cheap, it works well, and  it's what I had.

2 hours ago, VWatchie said:

So perhaps Moebius 9501 or Moebius 9504 grease?

Well I try to keep application of oils to pivots only as much as possible. Minimizes the risk of spreading.

Edited by CaptCalvin
  • Like 1
  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • Thanks for this post MikePilk, I just came across a similar problem with an Omega 1022.  The problem I had was the seconds pinion spring was bent out of shape and did not even engage with the wheel properly, so the seconds hand was not moving at all. (no power loss though :) I removed the automatic module so I could access the spring and work on it. Once I bent it back close to the right shape, I experienced the same problem you reported about power loss.  Many tweaks later, and the seconds hand is moving properly again, with amplitude back to good numbers again. Cheers
    • After cleaning up the pivots, I made bushes on the lathe. At this point I've pressed in 6 bushes (3 sets) and the wheels turn smooth. What I can also tell you, is that I'm not looking forward to final assembly. Getting the pivots aligned seems to get exponentially more difficult with each wheel that is added.
    • Islands are interesting places to live depending upon their size and other factors. This is a bigger island and it has a bridge to get there at least on one end. It's also big enough that you don't have to go someplace else to get things typically. It can be a problem if you get a job in Seattle though. Yes I've known of people who commuted from the island to Seattle for a job and I don't quite remember how many hours it took but it took a long time. So basically islands are nice if you don't have to leave very often.
    • Thanks @JohnR725! Everything you say makes a lot of sense and is encouraging to read.
    • isn't it nice to have a decent case open or when the case doesn't want to be opened? In the case of a Rolex watch that supposed to pass specific water resistant testing you probably do need to tighten the back down. But they shouldn't be tightened so much that they risk stripping the threads out. Then the other problem that comes up is the gaskets can start to disintegrate and then getting the back off can be quite a challenge unless you have a really good tool and perhaps some penetrating oil to loosen things up. Yes really nice case marking. When I was in school we were taught to mark the cases and  the American watch and clockmakers Institute even had a? So if you joined at one time they would give you an identification number. They were explaining or giving an example of if the watches ever found in you have a unique number they can perhaps figure out the history of the watch or identify the body it's attached to for instance not that that probably comes up that often. So you got a unique number and even made a special metal stamp that you can purchase. It wasn't a super big aggressive stamp but still it left a mark in the back of the case. Then I heard from people at work on Rolex watches they were using a felt pen indelible but later on they decided that was bad because apparently the ink could release  chemicals although it seems like once it's dry that shouldn't be an issue. Then of course today was nice is you can keep computer records sealed have to mark anything at all I personally find it's best to leave no reference behind that you were even there. Especially when you have a beautiful watch that has no markings at all and now it has your scribbling all over it not good typically if there is a typical and watch repair?  a lot of minor repairs you don't need to do a complete servicing. But beyond a certain point you're going to have to take apart a lot of stuff you're going to disrupt the lubrication even if it looks perfect right now and yes you might as well just go ahead the service the whole thing. also in a watch like this where a lot of things seem to be going on the complete service would be better then you'll know exactly where you stand versus dealing with unknown mysteries for prior repair.
×
×
  • Create New...