Jump to content

Timex winding stem

HectorLooi
 Share

Recommended Posts

HectorLooi Distinguished Member

HectorLooi

Posted
Posted

I'm having trouble removing the crown off the winding stem of a Timex M27 movement. I've tried WD40, heating it with a torch, but the crown simply refuses to budge.

It doesn't appear to have any screw threads. Could it be friction fitted?

Any suggestions? 

20200606_110058.jpg

JerseyMo Distinguished Member

JerseyMo

Posted
Posted
1 hour ago, HectorLooi said:

Thanks OH. Looks like I may have to cut one myself and thread it to fit a regular crown.

I should have the part in stock.  What is the dial code printed below the 6 hour?

 

HectorLooi Distinguished Member

HectorLooi

Posted
  • Author
Posted
2 hours ago, JerseyMo said:

I should have the part in stock.  What is the dial code printed below the 6 hour?

 

Thanks for the kind offer JerseyMo.

I picked up a compound slide a couple of weeks ago. This winding stem would be a simple project for me to break in my new toy. :D

JerseyMo Distinguished Member

JerseyMo

Posted
Posted
8 hours ago, HectorLooi said:

Thanks for the kind offer JerseyMo.

I picked up a compound slide a couple of weeks ago. This winding stem would be a simple project for me to break in my new toy. :D

sure new toys are fun. let us know how you progress with the repair.

HectorLooi Distinguished Member

HectorLooi

Posted
  • Author
Posted

I made some progress. I managed to get the old crown off by wedging the stem into the V shaped groove of a staking block and using 2 big screwdrivers as levers to lift the old crown off. Now all that is left for me to do is drill out the threads of a new crown and superglue the winding stem in. :woohoo-jumping-smiley-emoticon:

20200611_214525.jpg

  • Like 1
HectorLooi Distinguished Member

HectorLooi

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Wow. This 'simple project' is really fighting me all the way. No wonder JerseyMo's reply had a sprinkling of cynicism and skepticism. 

I got a new crown. The pipe was a little long. No problem, I filed it down.

The case tube was too big for the new crown. No problem, I put it in the lathe and cut the hole in the washer bigger. 

Then the oring in the crown was too small. I managed to get the crown washer out and got a new oring that fits. 

The only thing left was to drill out the threads and glue the winding stem in. :woohoo-jumping-smiley-emoticon:

Yeah. Right. The tungsten carbide drill bit broke in the hole. :pulling-hair-out:

 

20200617_100846.jpg

jdm Distinguished Member

jdm

Posted
Posted (edited)
1 hour ago, HectorLooi said:

Yeah. Right. The tungsten carbide drill bit broke in the hole.

Looks like it can be pulled out. Carbide is not a good choice for a soft and catchy material, it would have to spin real fast with that small diameter. Better a regular HSS bit driven by hand. 

Edited by jdm
  • Like 2
JerseyMo Distinguished Member

JerseyMo

Posted
Posted
14 hours ago, HectorLooi said:

Wow. This 'simple project' is really fighting me all the way. No wonder JerseyMo's reply had a sprinkling of cynicism and skepticism. 

the hard learned lessons are the best teachers. but they suck to have to live through!  Maybe I'll put that on a t-shirt!

  • Haha 2
HectorLooi Distinguished Member

HectorLooi

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Thanks JerseyMo. This is a '75 Telephone Dial Marlin. (26961 02775)

The case is in pretty bad shape. Almost all of the gold plating is gone. Even the underlying nickel layer is gone in some places. But the dial and movement are ok.

I don't think this watch can be restored to a state that I would wear it. I'll eventually turn a new stem for it when I have the time. But thanks again for the offer.

I managed to drill out the broken tungsten carbide tip with a diamond bur in a dental highspeed handpiece. But when I tapped the stem in to test it, the pipe split open. 

Looks like I'll put this on the back burner for now.

20200618_090806.jpg

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.

  • Topics

  • Posts

    • Birbdad
      Regulating is too touchy

      By Birbdad · Posted

      So if anybody overrides what i say, listen to them haha. I'm not an expert but i've just been in this boat a dozen times as i used to mess up hairsprings bad, but the good part of that was that i got to learn how to fix them.  What made my life SO much easier was learning how to adjust the hairsprings with the balance installed on a disassembled mainplate, unless it's a very serious problem or on an inner coil you can't get to i would recommend trying this in part because the spring will mostly ALWAYS look flat when the balance wheel is not installed on the cock. Install the balance wheel back in the cock and the cock with the cap jewels in the mainplate, with it installed even the most imperceptible twist will be pretty obvious. Just make sure the balance jewels are also installed. In these movements, if 99% of the time any twist or problems gonna be around the terminal curve, twists often near the stud, especially if you've been removing their awfully designed studs from the balance cock. If there's a reliable way to install those things without introducing a minor twist to them i haven't found it. they're an awful design. INstall the balance on you mainplate WITH your capstones/chatones and look sideways across the balance under magnification. Look for the highest or lowest spot of the now not flat hairspring. 180 degrees from that high or low spot is where your twist will be. You have to be VERY careful with twists as the tiniest over or under twist brings it out of flat. If the area i have to untwist is near the stud i just use a pair of #5 tweezers or some very sharp fine curved tweezers and gently see which way i twist it corrects the twist, then i hold the very fine point of the tweezers on the hairspring and just gently squeeze and check it and see if it started to correct it, then i rinse and repeat. Tiny adjustments is what you want, don't close them all the way, and dont' introduce a flat spot in them. it's just a little nudge by closing the tweezers on it at an angle. .  If the twist is not near the stud, i grasp the hairspring with some very fine curved tweezers as gently as possible while still holding it then i do that same sorta tweezer squeeze with my #5's. 
    • AndyGSi
      Omega Cosmic 2000 split stem question

      By AndyGSi · Posted

      Has it got the logo on the crown. I think you're best option is going to be to remove the damaged stem and measure it. Edit Do you have the case reference number.
    • Shadaar
      Omega Cosmic 2000 split stem question

      By Shadaar · Posted

      Movement is Omega 1012. I bought this from Cousins: 
    • Nucejoe
      Hello from Denmark

      By Nucejoe · Posted

      Welcome to the WRT forum.
    • Embezelled
      Where it begins

      By Embezelled · Posted

      To get the full diameter, I'd have to take it out of the case, which I won't be able to do until the screwdrivers arrive.  I doubt that it's much use to you, but the raised rim on the case, encircling what you see of the movement, has an outer diamter of 28 mm and an inner diameter of 24.8 mm. The case outer diameter is 32 mm.
×
×
  • Create New...