Jump to content

Transglobe, Anyone Know Anything Them?


Recommended Posts

Arrived this morning (must update ebay)

Looks even better in the metal.

Chromed base metal case. Spotless acrylic crystal and nice dial. Unusual, vintage leather rally strap.

20150124_105704.jpg

20150124_105617.jpg

How do I remove this odd caseback? Listing said not working but I wound it up and after an hour its still going. Want to take a look at the condition of the movement.

20150124_105728.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

That looks suspiciously like a Buler case back which masquerades as a Panerai case back. If it is a Panerai there is a special opener though you could get lucky with a sticky ball. If it is like the Buler it pops off with the case opening knife. Have a close look around where the case back meets the case.

Cheers,

Vic

Link to comment
Share on other sites

That looks suspiciously like a Buler case back which masquerades as a Panerai case back. If it is a Panerai there is a special opener though you could get lucky with a sticky ball. If it is like the Buler it pops off with the case opening knife. Have a close look around where the case back meets the case.

Cheers,

Vic

Hi. Looks like it pops off. Took a dry stiff toothbrush to it and dislodged a bunch of DNA revealing a slot.

Will pop it off after lunch and take a look.

Still running and keeping time well.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hmm. Probably cost a small fortune.

How about I cover it in clingfilm (saranwrap) and use some of that metal putty that you have to knead to activate.

I could then press it onto the clingfilm and make it take the shape of the case.

Before this I will wait and see what the seller confirms.

Thanks bobm12 & Vich

Edited by ro63rto
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.



  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • I've managed to adjust it. I'm going to try and explain it as well as I can with my limited horology knowledge but I hope it helps someone in the future. There is a cam to the right of the front plate as shown in the picture. As the clock ticks along, the pin indicated in the gear comes around and slots into one of the silencer cam gaps, turning the cam. The pin completes a full rotation in 2 hours. To adjust the cam to start at the right time set the clock to just before 7. I did 6:45. Then I turned the silencer cam anticlockwise, which spins freely, until it pushed the silencer lever up and was placed just before the drop. Just before the 7AM indicated in the picture. All I then had to do was progress the hands to 7-7:15which made the pin slot into the silencer cam gap and turn the cam so the lever comes down again, unsilencing the clock. That was it. If anyone comes across this issue again I'd be happy to assist. Thanks again to everyone that helped.
    • Now I'm completely confused, it would appear that the epilame  is oleophobic  as @Marc states: This oleophobic  behavior can be seen as beading of the droplet (as above) which stops the oil spreading which is supported by what we observe on treated/untreated cap stones (for example), but as @VWatchie states this should make the drops more mobile, and not less mobile which is the opposite of what we want. In fact this beading and high mobility are desirable properties in things like smart phone covers, see below.  I am fairly sure that epilame doesn't make the droplets more mobile, so maybe its a strange coating with dual properties that are both oleophobic and cohesive/adhesive resulting in low mobility?? This may explain the high price??  
    • The description there is exactly how it's done, and it's very well written!
    • Would it be correct to say that the stronger the mainspring, the thicker the oil should be? So for a fusee mainspring, should a thick grease be used?
    • I started on pocket watches as they are easier to work on than wristwatches. Many had gold cases, which is why there are so many movements for sale. I was always on the look out for cases, for as Nickelsilver says,  a 16s movement will fit any 16s case* (with tweaks to the stem). I also started hand winding mainsprings, before I had winders. It can be done without damage, but it's quite hard on the fingers.  But you can make homemade winders, see here      * some movements, eg "railroad grade", have a setting lever on the edge of the  dial at about the 1 -2 o'clock, so need a special case.
×
×
  • Create New...