Jump to content

Seiko 7009 crown wont press

Ammar

By Ammar
in Watch Repairs Help & Advice

 Share

Recommended Posts

Ammar WRT Addict

Ammar

Posted
Posted

Hello,

I got my self a Seiko to play with, I was so happy and excited, the watch was in a good condition ( except the broken dial feet), the crown wouldnt press to advance the day but I thought something must be broken, so I disassembled the movement cleaned it oiled it and had no problems (which shocked me tbh) and I even managed to take the diashok springs off and put them back on (I am super proud of my self).

When I pressed the crown after I reassembled the movement the day changed which mafe me even more proud. 

Now when I put the movement back in the case the stupid crown doesnt want to press, it does press when the movement is out.

I cleaned all the junk that was in the crown but that made no difference and here I am 3 am banging my head against the wall.

It's not the original stem is it?

Link to comment
Share on other sites
Gpsluvr WRT Addict

Gpsluvr

Posted
Posted

If it is a replacement stem, they may have cut it a little short and there is no room to press the stem inward via the crown. Try unscrewing the crown from the stem one turn if you can, and see what happens. Then you can decide what to do to permanently fix it.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk Pro

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites
Nucejoe Distinguished Member

Nucejoe

Posted
Posted

I agree with Gpsluvr. If crown doesn't want to unscrew though, Sometimes the case tube can be pushed further into the case which let's the crown pressed in deeper. 

How did you deal with dial plate, perhaps the broken feet let's movement free to get pushed back as you press on the crown.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites
aac58 WRT Addict

aac58

Posted
Posted

You can also take the movement out of the cas and check if the stem/crown can run into the case tube. This is to verify that the crown is the correct one for the case. I've seen wrong crowns with a too fat gaskets with the effects you describe.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites
Ammar WRT Addict

Ammar

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)
4 hours ago, Nucejoe said:

I agree with Gpsluvr. If crown doesn't want to unscrew though, Sometimes the case tube can be pushed further into the case which let's the crown pressed in deeper. 

How did you deal with dial plate, perhaps the broken feet let's movement free to get pushed back as you press on the crown.

The crown wouldn't unscrew and I don't want to break it, I thought about pushing the case tube a bit in but it doesn't look seperate frome the case.

I didn't deal with the dial yet but I was trying with the dial ring and movement ring in so the movement was secure in its place.

The previous guy used super glue, and dealing with it wasn't fun.

Edited by Ammar
Link to comment
Share on other sites
Ammar WRT Addict

Ammar

Posted
  • Author
Posted
2 hours ago, aac58 said:

You can also take the movement out of the cas and check if the stem/crown can run into the case tube. This is to verify that the crown is the correct one for the case. I've seen wrong crowns with a too fat gaskets with the effects you describe.

The crown does go run into the case tube fully, I do have another stem that has a fat gasket like you said.

Link to comment
Share on other sites
jdm Distinguished Member

jdm

Posted
Posted (edited)
51 minutes ago, Ammar said:

The crown wouldn't unscrew and I don't want to break it, , I thought about pushing the case tube a bit in but it doesn't look seperate frome the case.

As often mentioned, you need to apply some heat to loosen the locking agent.
Tube is always a separate part from the case but pushing it in or out is not an easy affair and not the correct solution for your problem.

Edited by jdm
  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites
Ammar WRT Addict

Ammar

Posted
  • Author
Posted

A little update:

I managed to put together a stem and a crown that solved the problem but the I had to deal with the stupid broken dial feet which took me like three hours I ended up using blue tack (dial dots aren't available for me and there is no where to put them anyway) now this is the watch after I finished it.20200309_220634.thumb.jpg.615869701f98590f678b95fc424d0368.jpg

Now there is an issue: the damn thing is racing like a mad horse, nomatter what I do to the regulator it's going like 8 min/hour, I had the same problem with a Citizen befor and enden up ruining the hair spring.:Bravo:20200309_220112.thumb.jpg.55720f7501c39929f1ea7bdde17f5ec2.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites
watchweasol Distinguished Member

watchweasol

Posted
Posted

Hi  You cant get dial dots  ?    I shall have to send you a few  plenty to be had in the UK.  I have your address so when time permits  I will send a few out for you.  You can build a machine for soldering on dial feet If I can get the drawings I will post them also. I build mine from bits the only expense was the box and a couple of switches . You have done ok with the watch well done:Bravo:

Link to comment
Share on other sites
Ammar WRT Addict

Ammar

Posted
  • Author
Posted
35 minutes ago, watchweasol said:

Hi  You cant get dial dots  ?    I shall have to send you a few  plenty to be had in the UK.  I have your address so when time permits  I will send a few out for you.  You can build a machine for soldering on dial feet If I can get the drawings I will post them also. I build mine from bits the only expense was the box and a couple of switches . You have done ok with the watch well done:Bravo:

Thanks alot, you don't have to send me any thing that's too much, I would like to see the drawings for the dial feet soldering machine that sounds a fun project :geek:

Link to comment
Share on other sites
  • 2 weeks later...
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.

  • Topics

  • Posts

    • Knebo
      Epilame / Fixodrop

      By Knebo · Posted

      Yes, I was referring to the (jewelled) gear train with HP (most of the time, I use 1300, but when Rolex says 1000, I'll use 1000).
    • JohnR725
      Without Our Forum

      By JohnR725 · Posted

      did I miss the update of the message of something changing?      
    • JohnR725
      Epilame / Fixodrop

      By JohnR725 · Posted

      I suppose it would depend upon what your lubricating with those? for instance what does the manufacturer say about those lubricants? I have a PDF from the manufacture and a rather peculiar statement found on the bottom of the chart. my suspicion is the reason the recommending would be without epilam the HP oils like the spread except when they're in Ruby jewel's with steel pivots. tableEN lubrication 2020.pdf
    • oldhippy
      Is this a 'hack' ?

      By oldhippy · Posted

      These types of hairsprings become weak with age and very fragile. Which I expect it is that giving you trouble, and that wheel is not the correct one, if it were not bent I don't think the movement would run as the teeth are not the correct height. The problem you have is price which depends on you. It can be repaired but is it worth it to you, because there is little value in the clock. A wheel can be made and hairspring replaced. Or hang on to it and keep looking on ebay which is your best bet for replacement parts or even a complete movement but it will be like finding a needle in a haystack. 
    • Knebo
      Epilame / Fixodrop

      By Knebo · Posted

      I did that also for a few movements - well, mainly in/around the train jewels. I made big efforts to epilame the mainplate WITHOUT getting Epilame into the Pallet fork jewels (where it's not supposed to be, right?). I made litte barriers with Rodico around that jewel and used drops from a syringe to apply on the rest.  However, I've now stopped doing this. For three reasons: 1. It's a hassle and consumes more of this liquid gold. 2. I didn't see the need when using HP1000/HP1300 lubricants and grease for most part. The two places where I'd use 9010 (i.e. escape wheel and balance) receive Epilame in specific places... or the cap-jewel-setting of the balance suspends the oil sufficiently be capillary action (see my "conflict" about using Epilame on the balance jewels).  3. Lastly, and here I really wonder about yours and others' experiences: I felt that applying Epliame to the train jewels left them looking hazy (borderline dirty) compared to the (painstakingly achieved) sparkly clean results of my cleaning process. I just can't help but think that the Epilame residuals would mix with the oil and cause more friction/wear. I don't know.    simple: it'll stay there. It won't move any further. That's exactly what is happening if you epilame a cap stone. You end up placing the 9010 right on top of the epilame and the oil will sit nicely on that spot.
×
×
  • Create New...