Jump to content

Seiko 6309a Pallet Fork Problems


Dave84

Recommended Posts

Hi guys,

I have been working on my first full strip down and service of an old 6309a I picked up. 

When reinstalling the pallet fork, I am noticing that when I put a turn of power to the mainspring to test the fork in its position that its not locking the escape wheel and instead pivoting back and forth uncontrollably at high speed for a second until it runs out. I have also tried to reinstall it a few times but keep getting the same results. I am assuming that have damaged something ... :unsure:

Any advice appreciated 

Thanks 

Dave 

IMG_20200222_174810.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The pics looks alright as far as I can tell. Tough with just one pic but I’d say it shouldn’t be doing that. 
 

given my own mishaps, I have to ask without meaning any offends... is it possible you placed the fork upside down and so the stones are not at the same level as the escape wheel and hence free spinning? Or is the escape wheel placed incorrectly? All teeth ok?

 

keep us posted!

 

Julian 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hi Julian- no worries, it is something id likely do, but no i checked its in correctly. the escape is sat within the pivots and moving freely. 

Nucejoe - I didn't actually clean the pallet fork, but I did notice that the jewels were sat pretty deep in the fork and they might not be connecting properly with the escape wheels. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hi  on this one I would side with nucejoe  It looks and sounds like the the pallet jewels are set wrong and mislocking on the escape wheel. Watch closely the action of the pallet, apply a small amount of power and watch how the jewels lock, control the release of the power with some peg wood.  Do not run the watch at speed as it may break or chip the jewels.  one answer is to obtain another pallet and try the same tests as re setting the jewels whilst not impossible will be time consuming and may not achieve the desired results.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I take it you manually clean pallets. So I make a habit of dropping the fork in bath of avgas and gently brush (soft brush) pallets alot. 

I think more friction and drag come to the play during escape teeth run on the face of pallets , than all other low tension components combined. Good clean and proper lube on a good pallet face is your ticket to good amplitude.

Escape teeth scratch pallets face especially if dry, so I make a habit of routinely  checking pallet face under high magnification. 

But in this case, I am affraid replacing complete fork with a good one is your best option. Watchweasol once called pallet adjust a minefield, everyone agreed.

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites



  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • As I'm only cleaning watches in small numbers at home, I pre-clean any significant deposits of old grease and oil before using the cleaning solutions. I scrape off deposits with pegwood and Rodico, and if really dirty, wash parts in naphtha with a brush.  So I'm happy using DX, but can understand why it's avoided by the pros.
    • I think attaching a nut to the lid to pull it off is the least destructive, any damage damage on the outside is going to an easier fix than any created when trying to push it out from the inside. Scratching up the inside of the lid , mainspring or arbor bearing will be risk. Just my opinion.
    • yes the things we read in the universe I did see some where it was either difficult to clean off or it contaminated the cleaning fluid there was some issue with cleaning. I was trying to remember something about grease where as opposed to a substance of a specific consistency they were suggesting it had a base oil with something to thicken it. That conceivably could indicate that the two could separate and that would be an issue. But there is something else going on here that I had remembered so I have a link below and the description of the 9501 notice the word that I highlighted? Notice that word appears quite a bit on this particular page like 9415 has that property all so they 8200 mainspring grease and that definitely has to be mixed up when you go to use it because it definitely separates. just in case you didn't remember that nifty word there is a Wikipedia entry. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Thixotropy   https://www.moebius-lubricants.ch/en/products/greases I wonder if what you're seeing is the boron nitride left behind after cleaning. In other words it's the high-pressure part of the grease and it's probably embedding itself into the metal which is why it doesn't clean off and shouldn't be a problem?
    • Yes and no. I use Moebius 9501 synthetic grease and it is significantly runnier than the Moebius 9504 synthetic grease (and I assume Molykote DX) that I previously used. I haven't seen 9504 spread and it is in my opinion the best grease money can buy. However, my current method of cleaning doesn't remove it from the parts, so that's why I have decided to use the 9501 instead. I believe I read somewhere that Molykote DX too is difficult to clean off. Thinking about it, I'm pretty sure my 9501 grease which expired in June 2022 is runnier now than it was when it was new, but whether new or old it always needs to be stirred before use. So, that's why I treat the parts of the keyless works, cannon pinion, etc. with epilame. That was very thoughtful of you and something that had completely passed me by. Not sure what the epilame will do when it wears off in a non-oiled hole. Anyone?
    • Hi not found one either yet,  close relative is the 436 and 4361 according to ranff.db.   It gives quire a lot of detail but not as good as the old site.      RANFF.DB.
×
×
  • Create New...