Jump to content

Why do Collectors HATE Timex Watches?


Recommended Posts

1 hour ago, clockboy said:


This link has a YouTube vid and clearly shows that they can be disassembled BUT you can see why I said I find them fiddly. Most just clean the entire movement , dry and lubricate and remarkably this method  works for a Timex.

 

PS yes I did strip my first Timex and it took me hours to reassemble and the performance (by luck) was certainly better than what this guy achieved.

 

 

https://www.watchuseek.com/threads/timex-m33-movement-assembly-service.5258238/

there is one lingering question which often comes up with Timex repair.  "How was the movement put together in the factory?"   the answer is they had special jigs to hold everything in place.  This has been confirmed by both former workers at the Dundee plant and Waterbury.  

 

 

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

6 minutes ago, oldhippy said:

It looks as though I picked the wrong type of Timex movement to use as an example. I will now go and stand in the corner awaiting punishment.   

there is no wrong type nor any reason to stand in the corner because no Timex movement was held together by rivets.   

None, nada, zip, zilch etc.   and aren't hippies promoters of love and peace?  

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I'm sorry to say but you are wrong. Perhaps rivets was the wrong word, there were old Timex movements that you couldn't take apart. They looked as if where screws would have been, the metal was pressed over which made it impossible to take apart.  My master always said you can't take them apart because they don't have screws. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

4 hours ago, oldhippy said:

I'm sorry to say but you are wrong. Perhaps rivets was the wrong word, there were old Timex movements that you couldn't take apart. They looked as if where screws would have been, the metal was pressed over which made it impossible to take apart.  My master always said you can't take them apart because they don't have screws. 

 I stand by what I stated previous and I have provide samples.  Can you provide a sample?  Which I'd bet if found would not be a Timex or US Time movement at all. Instead it would be from an early dollar watch maker.

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 8/18/2021 at 12:54 PM, dadistic said:

Got it. It was Greg at Woodland Technical.  http://www.woodlandtechnical.co.uk/

His website is definitely worth perusing, especially the section "What Customers Say" and "Derek **BLEEP** Answers Your Questions"

Have fun!

yes, I recall Greg posting about this.  He had mentioned how much the beat rate had improved. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...
On 8/16/2021 at 11:18 AM, JerseyMo said:

 they had special jigs to hold everything in place

Every now and then I try to disassemble and then reassemble one of the 'junk' M24 and 24 based movements that I have.

I have enough working parts to build a 31, but I haven't done so yet because I'm still learning how to finesse the balance wheel into its pivots & then properly pin the hair spring with that splinter-sized bit of brass.

Anyway, as I've nudged and tweaked and tapped and cursed those gears into their pivots I've always assumed that the workers at the factory had jigs to hold those gears in place when they assembled the watch.

And I've also wondered whether any of them ever escaped--or if anyone ever came up with one for their own repairs. Because good lord would it make life easier for a hack like myself.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

6 hours ago, RichJensen said:

Every now and then I try to disassemble and then reassemble one of the 'junk' M24 and 24 based movements that I have.

I have enough working parts to build a 31, but I haven't done so yet because I'm still learning how to finesse the balance wheel into its pivots & then properly pin the hair spring with that splinter-sized bit of brass.

Anyway, as I've nudged and tweaked and tapped and cursed those gears into their pivots I've always assumed that the workers at the factory had jigs to hold those gears in place when they assembled the watch.

And I've also wondered whether any of them ever escaped--or if anyone ever came up with one for their own repairs. Because good lord would it make life easier for a hack like myself.

It can be very frustrating to get all 6 pivots in at a go. It used to take me forever to reassemble the plates until I learnt a trick. If you arrange all the gears on the bottom plate and stand them upright as best as you can, then "hover" the top plate until the holes are directly over the pivots, then drop it. Some times it just goes straight in. A hole-in-one!

And if it doesn't go straight in, lightly tap the plates to jolt the pivots in.

I swear this is not a joke. It works.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

14 hours ago, RichJensen said:

Every now and then I try to disassemble and then reassemble one of the 'junk' M24 and 24 based movements that I have.

I have enough working parts to build a 31, but I haven't done so yet because I'm still learning how to finesse the balance wheel into its pivots & then properly pin the hair spring with that splinter-sized bit of brass.

Anyway, as I've nudged and tweaked and tapped and cursed those gears into their pivots I've always assumed that the workers at the factory had jigs to hold those gears in place when they assembled the watch.

And I've also wondered whether any of them ever escaped--or if anyone ever came up with one for their own repairs. Because good lord would it make life easier for a hack like myself.

yes the factory workers had jigs to hold the parts in place.  No, not a single one has ever surfaced for sale.  A tip for you is to backout the brass cap screw to allow one end of the blance to sit lower. This helps went placing the pallet fork into postion.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.




  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • Just got these good quality diamond files from the bay for Just a fiver, we all love a bargain dont we. Brand names are J.K.Smit  and Triefus, two old diamond tool makers so not cheap crap.
    • Its a touch under ive just remeasured it and added a wrist shot. Unbelievably it was £13  plus 3 postage. You dont find watches that nice for that money every day of the week. Maybe removing the epilame in the oil region improves the purpose of it. We may know very soon as i emailed Episurf 4 hours ago to ask that exact question. 🤞they are happy to provide an answer for us. How do you fancy trying a stearic acid vapour treatment experiment  H .  Shall i have a go this afternoon ?
    • That's the size of my grandfather's Ernest Borel watch. Definitely not a lady's watch! 👍
    • Thanks H It does have a big crown for the watch , it could be considered a ladies watch these days i guess, it measures 33mm case 36mm with that large crown 18mm lug space. A tad small for a guy of today, but still very wearable. The photo was deceptive so here it is adorning my 7 1/4 " wrist. It need some love to make it run better. The hair coils are touching so running a bit fast at the moment,  not caused by magnetism, and maybe just a clean and a service. The dtal is in fantastic shape.
    • That's one beautiful timepiece! Love the big crown in proportion to the case. Perhaps a ladies' watch, but I don't think so. I have a "modern Ingersoll" watch, but it has nothing to do with the original brand (Miyota 9015 movement). Interesting synonym for synthetic oils! 😆 There is, of course, a limit to how large a volume of oil epilame can bind and hold in place. If the oleophobic effect is too strong then it can become a problem. I'm not sure where I heard or read it, but as I understand it, the active ingredient in a bottle of epilame is extremely small and more than 99% of the contents of the bottle is just a transfer agent. If the active ingredient becomes too concentrated, which it can become over time, or if the product is of poor quality, the oleophobic effect is amplified. This in turn causes the applied oil to look like a gummed-up ball on the surface of the treated part. If that happens, we know that the active ingredient has become too concentrated. What we want is for the oil to bind but not to the point where it is formed into an excessively round ball on the surface. The highlighted text in the patent that you refer to describes well the problem that can arise with too high a concentration of the active ingredient. However, I would be extremely surprised if the entire amount of oil leaves the treated surface as water on wax would. At present, I am convinced that the analogy between wax and water on the one hand and epilame and oil on the other is incorrect. Epilame is described as binding and that is also my absolute experience. Epilame probably has some repelling effect but that is not its main purpose and that is not how epilame is designed and works. The method of abrading the epilame treatment from the section of the pallet stones coming in contact with the escape wheel teeth seems after even more research to be well established, but if it actually works, if so how and why is beyond what I can currently understand. Perhaps it is just to do and trust that it is based on well-established experience. I am, after all, inclined to think so.
×
×
  • Create New...