Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

Hi, 

I've bought a Omega Seamaster Cosmic manual wind from 1969 with probably a loose cannon pinion because it lost time. I tried to tighten it but split it in half. I ordered a new cannon pinion for this cal. However when i'm placing it it doesnt need any force to place. It drops right in place. Could it be that even the new cannon pinion needs tightning? The hour and minute hands just don't move now, only when I pull the crown. I was expecting that a new cannon pinion would instantly solve the problem buf it didn't. Or could there anything other wrong. 

I tried to let it be serviced but my watchmaker refused because I didn't but it at his place. And I want to learn watch repairing. 

Yours,

Posted

Tube appears greasy. If so, I pour some lighter fluid on a piece a cloth, wipe clean.

Tightening the bolt mimics a micrometer and gives good control over the tightening task. 

Tightening is just enough to brings about some friction 

IMG_20190914_160416.jpg

IMG_20190914_160430.jpg

  • Like 2
Posted

I will clean it, so you're saying i need to tighten the cannon pinion? Do i need to feel some resistance placing the cannon pinion on the tube? 

Thanks for the pics. 

Posted
  On 9/14/2019 at 11:55 AM, Purra said:

I will clean it, so you're saying i need to tighten the cannon pinion? Do i need to feel some resistance placing the cannon pinion on the tube? 

Thanks for the pics. 

Expand  

Yes. It should fit on with a push. Just make sure you do not damage the teeth to the minute wheel. 

Posted

Yes you feel some resistance thereafter, tighten in small increments/ turns towards the end, keep trying the canon pinion on the tube. 

I have never tried this with the tube in the movement. Do not remove the pinion off the nailclipper prongs during the entire tightening process, grab somewhere in the midle of the tube. 

Good luck

Posted

You placed the order right, who knows what you received. Can,t be sure.

Will you instal the canon pinon before tightening and let us see a pic of.

Posted
  On 9/14/2019 at 11:55 AM, Nucejoe said:

I have used a piece of sand paper to falttened sharp blades of the nailclipper to prevent damaging the canon pinion. 

Good luck pal

Expand  

    good show.  i would use a stone or file to Dub the sharp edge.  put a drill rod in the tube before making the crush. you can very the crush via the drill rod size.    vin

  • Thanks 1
Posted

I checked the sheet. I have ordered the 1219  (2.70mm) This measurement is the height, right? When I compare both the old cannon pinion with the new one. I can't find a indentation on the new one, but I also had a hard time finding a indentation on the old one when it wasn't broken yet. It seems perfectly round. 

It looks like this:

Afbeeldingsresultaat voor 560-1219

 

image.png.797d7074b794fbf1e86faf6c919ff8ce.png

Posted
  On 9/14/2019 at 1:10 PM, Purra said:

Here are the pics of the canon pinion before tightening. Thanks for the clear instructions. 

So my best shot is now cleaning the tube and tightening the cannon pinion I guess.

IMGur: https://imgur.com/a/hvGAlEg

 

IMG_7974.JPEG

IMG_7975.JPEG

IMG_7976.JPEG

IMG_7977.JPEG

IMG_7978.JPEG

Expand  

Can,t see the minute arbor, on which min hand gets mounted, if so OH predicted correct," wrong canon pinion, it is just too tall"

Posted

Purrs, from the s it looks like the center wheel staff is much smaller than the cannon pinion. Is ther visible space between the staff and the cannon pinion? If so, perhaps the center wheel post is worn or not original? To tighten the cannon pinion to fit the staff should be an imperceptible adjustment measured in microns. If you have to tighten a visible amount, I think something else is afoot.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

  • Thanks 1
Posted

Feel the side shake, grab the canon pinion( when installed)  with tweezers, left & right with it, should not feel loose. 

ItproDad is right , tollorance betwwen ,Center wheel post OD and canon pinion ID is matter of micron.

 

  • Like 2
Posted

It doesn't feel like its moving at all when I perform a side shake, its not loose on the sides but it does fall in place without force. Silly question: The minute hand is mounted to the cannon pinion, right, and not to the center wheel staff.

  • Thanks 1
Posted

Center post look to fit good inside center jewel, so its OD is Ok, thence any wear on it is matter of microns. Check center posts side shakes. One: with canon pinion. Two: with center jewel.

 

Posted
  On 9/14/2019 at 3:32 PM, Purra said:
It doesn't feel like its moving at all when I perform a side shake, its not loose on the sides but it does fall in place without force. Silly question: The minute hand is mounted to the cannon pinion, right, and not to the center wheel staff.

Depends on if there is a center sweep second hand. If not, yes. The minute hand mounts to the center wheel staff.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
  • Thanks 1
Posted
  On 9/14/2019 at 3:32 PM, Purra said:

It doesn't feel like its moving at all when I perform a side shake, its not loose on the sides but it does fall in place without force. Silly question: The minute hand is mounted to the cannon pinion, right, and not to the center wheel staff.

Expand  

Sorry :)


  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • I am practising bluing screws. I am using a soldering station with good temp control (I have adjusted the thermostat to increase the temp beyond the 400°C limit). I have a stainless steel bowl with a bed of brass shavings and a thermocouple to measure the actual temp in the bed. My issues are: 1. The temp I found to get to blue was well above the slated 310°C.  2. I was at something like 370°C to get a decent blue. 3. I am only able to blue the head of the screw (the surface that I had polished). 4. Even with cheating the thermostat, I was only able to get the bed up to 458°C. That still was not sufficient to blue the remainder of the screw, it only got this to a straw colour. Can anyone advise on what I'm doing wrong, or need to do differently to blue the whole screw. Also, why is the temperature so far above what's quoted for bluing steel? All advice/insights will be gratefully received.  
    • He's trying to tell you something like this isn't really a good plan. Just a reminder of something when they quote something from the other page when I looked up your serial numbers Estimated Production Year:    1937 Run Quantity:    4,000     Grade/Model Run:    310 of 329 Estimated Production Year:    1917   Run Quantity:    2,000     Grade/Model Run:    127 of 329 You will note that one of your watches was a batch of 2000 made in 1917 and the other was a batch of 4000 made in 1937. Then did you notice how the main plate has a serial number the complete serial number? Then all the rest of the bridges have a partial of that serial number and typically the serial number is also scribed on the balance wheel. The problem with manufacturing when these watches were made was that there were variations as you can see the balance bridges do not interchange because they're not of the same batch. Basically what happens is the main plate is made the bridges are made there assembled together and then the holes for the wheels the jewels etc. are done when everything is assembled as this is the only way they have to get all of the alignments absolutely perfect. Then each of the escapement's and balance wheels are adjusted for each watch.  
    • I've never been able to find any information on jewel sizes.
    • I had thought about doing that. Is there a concern that if I can't get the crown off that the water from rust remover and penetrating oil might get trapped within the crown/stem assembly?
    • Hi, Does anyone know if there is any kind of dimensional reference for the Seiko jewels used in their movements? Specifically I would like to know the dimensions of Seiko part 011307 that I am not able to source. The jewel is found in the 27 jewel 4006 movement as well as some other obscure Seiko movements.
×
×
  • Create New...