Jump to content

ETA/Unitas 6947


Recommended Posts

A good option is to search eBay for "17 jewels pocket watch incabloc". If you're lucky you'll find an inexpensive watch in a so-so condition with a Unitas 6498 which may the perfect candidate for the watchrepairlessons.com courses. For example https://www.ebay.com/itm/ARNEX-Pocket-Watch-17-Jewels-Incabloc-Vintage/163808704023

There's some slight confusion about what movement is actually used in the courses, but it is indeed the Unitas 6498, not the Unitas 6497. Anyway, if you find a 6497 with a good price you can use that instead. For all practical purposes, it makes very little or no difference.

Edited by VWatchie
Added additional info
Link to comment
Share on other sites

There is not very much differing the 6497 or 6498,  6497 has its second at 12 o clock making the second ending up at 9 o clock when put in a case whilst the 6498 has it second at 3 o clock. So which one choose to practice on is of small difference.
But when comming to buy a case and dial I would think the 6497 configuration is the most popular since a very popular watch is using it and you find brands like "PARNIS" fitting the movement . To give a hint of which original brand it could emulate I give an extended listing below.
------------------------------------------

6497 (-1, -2)
-----------------------------------------
Alpina AL-435 (-1)
Alpina AL-650  (-1)
Chronoswiss C692 (-1)
Dornblüth 99.2 (-1)
Maurice Lacroix ML-16 (-1)
Maurice Lacroix ML-1 - (-1)
Maurice Lacroix ML-100 (-1)
Panerai OP XXI (-1)
Omega 960
Panerai OP I (-2)
Panerai OP II (-2)
Panerai OP X (-2)
Panerai OP XI (-2)
Rado RHW1 (-2)
------------------------------------------

6498 (-1, -2)
------------------------------------------
Dugena 3913
Longines L512 (-2)
Maurice Lacroix ML-76 (-1)
Sinn SZ04 (-1)
TAG Heuer Calibre 1 (-1)
Zenith 126
Zenith 40

---------------------------------------------

Link to comment
Share on other sites

1 hour ago, MIKED19551 said:

If you just want a movement to practice with I would suggest you purchase a Chinese clone movement. They are almost identical in construction and don't cost a fortune if you accidentally break something.

When I made the suggestion of this particular movement I was suggesting the movement only. If you purchase a complete watch it has to be brand new which is why a movement is a better way to go. As someone new to watch repair you need to learn how the watch works and how to successfully disassemble and reassemble it without destroying it. Then preferably you going to practice a lot with this watch until you get really good at disassembling and reassembling without accidents.

Go to eBay search for eta 6497 movement. Specifically we're not looking for the 6497 or the 6498 were looking for the clone's as their way cheaper. So just now doing the search I can see one of the clone goes by ST-36.

Then see you can see what the 6497/6498 looks like I have links below. 

http://www.ranfft.de/cgi-bin/bidfun-db.cgi?10&ranfft&0&2uswk&ETA_6497_1

http://www.ranfft.de/cgi-bin/bidfun-db.cgi?10&ranfft&0&2uswk&ETA_6498_1

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites



  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • Yes and no. I use Moebius 9501 synthetic grease and it is significantly runnier than the Moebius 9504 synthetic grease (and I assume Molykote DX) that I previously used. I haven't seen 9504 spread and it is in my opinion the best grease money can buy. However, my current method of cleaning doesn't remove it from the parts, so that's why I have decided to use the 9501 instead. I believe I read somewhere that Molykote DX too is difficult to clean off. Thinking about it, I'm pretty sure my 9501 grease which expired in June 2022 is runnier now than it was when it was new, but whether new or old it always needs to be stirred before use. So, that's why I treat the parts of the keyless works, cannon pinion, etc. with epilame. That was very thoughtful of you and something that had completely passed me by. Not sure what the epilame will do when it wears off in a non-oiled hole. Anyone?
    • Hi not found one either yet,  close relative is the 436 and 4361 according to ranff.db.   It gives quire a lot of detail but not as good as the old site.      RANFF.DB.
    • No problem to replace the setting with the staking set. Press the new setting from inside, use flat face punch with hole. The punch must be wider than the setting, the hole to be as not to press at the stone, but only on the bush. Press by hand until the setting gets flush with the plate surface, so the punch must rest on it.
    • Yes, the arbor usually makes about 3 to 3.5 turns. But usually spring takes 2/3 to 3/4 of the free space in barrel, not 1/2, so take it for the calcullations. This way the change in torque is smaller. I have a picture for You, this one is little older, but no mater
    • I overhauled a ladies Rolex and noticed erratic performance so I stripped in down again and did fault finding. This is what I saw. The lower jewel (the one in the plate) is cracked and the hole is too big. Before discovering this, I stripped down and re-cleaned the main-plate (and parts) by hand with a fine natural fiber brush. I somehow missed the fault the first time and cannot understand how it was still running. Perhaps re-cleaning it dislodged some pieces of the jewel widening the hole? I don't know. Now I need to replace the jewel but don't have a Seitz tool. The Rolex part is 2130-0913 and the top and bottom are the same. The part comes complete in brass setting with KIF elastor spring and cap jewel. Note: I have never replaced a jewel. I do have a good vintage stacking set that I've used quite a bit.  Can I replace using a stacking set? Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.  
×
×
  • Create New...