Jump to content

Crystal polishing


Recommended Posts

I've polished this way by hand a couple of times, starting first with 600 grit sand paper, then moving finer towards 2400 grit, and finally cerium oxide worked into a paste. This took a great deal of time by hand (with a wheel I'm sure it would be a lot quicker) and I would only do it again if very stuck. Some of the deeper scratches I just gave up on removing.

Polishing acrylic crystals is so much more satisfying, and Sensodyne toothpaste is a lot nicer to work with than cerium oxide paste ;)

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Cheers for the info mate, I’ve got a Fashion watch ( Gucci 1500L ) that I picked up for a steal. I have a replacement crystal from cousins 20mm x 9mm flat rectangular, got the size from esslinger (220x090) so fingers crossed the Stern Kreuz one will fit if the polishing doesn’t work. As for the bracelet and case that’s getting the good news with stainless cutting compound then polishing compound after. All getting done with the dremel so hopefuly all goes well.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Nice mate, I started this evening with the dremel, it’s nice and shiney but there are a couple of deeper scratches that I don’t think will come out.

so I think I will be getting a new one, as you can see esslinger stock them, I’ve done a product request through cousins as he sternkruez one I bought is too big.

 

B83C1F05-3EA1-452B-9664-D32A50158327.jpeg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 6 months later...

I hate these so called non scratch modern crystals. I usually scratch them the first few days of ownership. Then you need to almost burn out the dremel motor to polish it out with diamond paste. If they where good quality plastic, I could rub it on a piece of leather with some polish paste and be done with it in under five minutes.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

3 hours ago, Bauertime said:

I hate these so called non scratch modern crystals. I usually scratch them the first few days of ownership. Then you need to almost burn out the dremel motor to polish it out with diamond paste. If they where good quality plastic, I could rub it on a piece of leather with some polish paste and be done with it in under five minutes.

 

That is because as mentioned above scratches are removed first with wet paper, not diamond paste that is for finishing only. If you want not to worry anymore replace with sapphire that can be bought starting from 5 or 6 euro. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

That's what I do with plastic crystals. I'm afraid to put any more scratches in a mineral crystal. By the way the ones I have scratched have been sapphire and the Invicta flame-fusion crystals. They scratch very easily, in my opinion. I like plastic but not Russian plastic. They will scratch if you look them wrong.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I've done it once, to get rid of a deep gouge in the glass crystal of an LCD watch.   I used wet papers starting with 400 grit and ending with 5000 grit, then cerium oxide applied with a Dremel at low speed to polish.  The end result looks perfect after removing about 0.2mm of glass in total, which took 5 hours work.  I'd think twice before attempting it again, much less hassle to source a new crystal if possible.  For acrylic I use Meguiar's Plast-RX which works just the same as Polywatch at about 100th of the cost - £8 for a 250ml bottle from Halfords in the UK.

Link to comment
Share on other sites



  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • All I do is use a fine marker (sharpie) to put the service date on the back cover, this way it can be removed with some IPA and does no permanent damage to the watch. I'm in two minds about the whole service marking thing, sometimes it's good/bad to see the markings on the watch case back as you know it's been worked on and vice versa. However, if I took my car in for a service and the mechanic scratched some code into the housing of my engine I wouldn't be too impressed. Hence, I think my sharpie solution is a reasonable compromise.
    • hmmmm.... maybe there is a way to skin that cat 🙀 let me think on it... unless anyone else has any ideas? I left the opening in the side of the base and ring quite large to maybe allow you to grip the crown, but appreciate this may not always be possible, especially for small movements where the crown will not extend past the outer wall of the holder. I noticed this also, but after using the holder for a while I noticed that the ring/holder began to wear into shape (rough edges/bumps worn off) and the size became closer to the desired movement OD. Maybe with some trial and error we could add 0.5 mm (??) to the movement OD to allow for this initial bedding-in?
    • Hi nickelsilver, thanks for the great explanation and the links! I'll take a good look in the article.  Especially this is great news to hear! Looking through forums and youtube videos I was informed to 'fist find a case and then fit a movement for it'. But seems that's not the case for pocket watches at least?  I guess I should be looking to find some 'male square bench keys' for now. I was thinking of winding the mainspring using a screwdriver directly, but I found a thread that you've replied on, saying that it could damage the spring. 
    • Murks, The rate and amplitude look OK, and the amplitude should improve once the oils you have used get a chance to move bed-in, also I notice that you are using default 52 degrees for the lift angle, if you get the real lift angle (assuming it's not actually 52) this will change your amplitude - maybe higher, maybe lower. I notice that the beat error is a little high, but not crazy high. At the risk of upsetting the purists, if the balance has an adjustment arm I would go ahead and try and get this <0.3 ms, but if it does not have an adjustable arm then I would probably leave well alone. Just my opinion.
    • Hi everyone on my timegrapher it showing this do a make anymore adjustment someone let me know ?    
×
×
  • Create New...