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KayMan

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  1. One year on, how have you got on with servicing the 5y23? I might soon have one of my own that will need some tlc so I'm keen to benefit from your experience.
  2. I've only polished a glass crystal once. It was deeply scratched, about 0.3mm deep, and I used wet papers from 400 to 5000 grit. I tried a Dremel with cerium oxide on a 25mm felt mop for final polishing but it was far better at pebble-dashing the walls than polishing the glass. Finally I used the same mop in my drill press, set to 700 rpm, which did the trick. The whole process took me about 5 hours so I'm not keen to repeat it. I did wonder if the wet/dry part of the process could be mechanised in some way to speed it up. I imagine that any kind of handheld rotary tool could easily cause optical aberrations in the crystal simply by removing more material in some areas than in others. It occurred to me that it might be possible to use an orbital sander upside down with the abrasive paper secured somehow to the baseplate. While that might work for a flat crystal it might not be so good for a curved profile. Also one would need to prevent water getting inside the sander. Just random thoughts, not sure what the solution for Anthony1979 might be.
  3. I'm considering buying one of the 5700 back openers but not fully understanding what I'm seeing in the photos that accompany the listings for these things. Just what are those 8 white blocks of various shapes that sit behind the main body of the tool?
  4. That’s a great link, thanks. Seems I got it right, more by omission than conscious decision!
  5. I've been servicing movements for a couple of years now and am slowly getting the hang of it. I lubricate pallet stones with 9415 but have never thought about whether I should lube the impulse jewel. Is it a case , like pallet fork pivots, that the torque is so small that lubing the impulse jewel will kill amplitude? Apologies for yet another lubrication question but my searches have not yielded any guidance on this particular subject.
  6. Thanks all, I now have all the info I need.
  7. Thanks for your help, with which I think I can answer my own question - though confirmation from the experts would be nice! The square gold watch has a symbol under the balance with a "P" in it and "330" underneath, which I think might be Peseux. The SS watch has a symbol under the dial "FEF 190". Fleurier perhaps? A shot of the keyless works for the FEF 190 is included for info.
  8. I don't normally touch other peoples' watches but on this occasion a good friend asked if I could have a look at 2 of his 50 year old watches and hopefully improve them. Both dials and movements are signed Winegartens and one case has Dennisons stamped inside the back. Both movements run quite well despite never having been serviced. If possible I would like to find service documentation for these but of course I need to know something about the movements first. Can anyone help me to identify them please?
  9. Sorry, my Amphibia is quite new and I have no useful knowledge of the older ones.
  10. I'm guessing your movements are the same as my Amphibia, in which the seconds pinion is held in place by a weak cantilever spring. Pressing the seconds hand in place simply pushes the shaft down against the spring so that the seconds hand doesn't engage properly on the shaft. You need to brace the seconds pinion from the back to prevent it moving when you attach the seconds hand. I just use my finger to brace the pinion but I daresay there are other more proper ways to do it.
  11. I buy white cotton gloves from a motorcycle store. They sell them as inner gloves for winter wear on bikes.
  12. Thanks Ishima, but perhaps I've led you astray. The rotor was present and correct but I had removed it during the attempt to extract the movement from the case, which is why it's not shown in the photo.
  13. Thanks jdm, I'll try that tomorrow. It does run but this battery lasted just 9 months and the previous one only 2 years, so I'm guessing the movement is in need of cleaning. Is this a particularly tricky movement to deal with?
  14. Having accumulated a bit of experience of repairing basic watches and a few automatics, I thought I'd try my hand at restoring my 5M42-0880 which I bought new in 1995. It has never been serviced and needs a new power cell and a good strip and clean. I discovered how to extract the stem but cannot see how to remove the movement from the case. It does not respond to gravity or to gentle shaking and I can't see any obvious screws holding it in. Can someone enlighten me please? Cheers, Kevin
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