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About KayMan

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  • Birthday 07/03/1948

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    Hampshire, UK
  • Interests
    Watches, R/C models, mandolin, ukulele, walking, photography

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  1. Thanks, no bezel ring on this design so I guess dry insertion is the way to go. Cheers
  2. I’m refurbishing a Seiko 7T92-OJSO for which I have ordered the correct 36mm x 3mm thick crystal and gasket. I have a crystal press but have yet to use it to push home a crystal into a crystal gasket so I have a question - should the crystal be pushed in dry or should I lubricate the gasket with silicone grease or similar first? TIA
  3. I’ve recently taken quite a liking to Seiko’s 7T quartz chronometers and am getting used to servicing them. I’ve found that they have an Achilles heel in that the minute wheel is made of plastic and it only takes a little extra torque from a sticky or jammed hour wheel to strip the teeth off the minute wheel. Is anyone else on this excellent forum repairing these movements and if so, do you have any suggestions as to where I might obtain spare minute wheels, Seiko part no. 0261580? I’ve tried all the usual sources to no avail and donor movements are quite expensive.
  4. Andy Hull, the solder paste at the top of your post looks interesting. I'm trying to repair some modules from quartz watches which are mostly damaged by battery leakage, so some tracks eaten away, pusher contacts vanished etc. I'm dealing with features like closely spaced 0.2mm wide tracks, soldering 0.1mm wire on top to regain continuity. It's the nearest to micro-surgery that I'm likely to get and my success rate with 22g solder and a needle point iron under a microscope is not great. Would the solder paste be any easier to use do you think, and would a hot air gun be a better bet than a
  5. Hi and welcome! You won't find anywhere more friendly and helpful than this forum, loads of expertise at your disposal, any question answered no matter how basic.
  6. Thanks Stefan. I must say this is a super bit of software, much more versatile than any timing machine I've seen. I made a lashup microphone stand to get me going, with the intention of making a "proper" one after a few weeks. That was over 2 years ago and I still haven't made the "proper" one. Also the only quad op amp in my bits box was an LM349, which is quite hissy but the software manages to filter out the signal from all the noise just fine. Very useful, I wouldn't be without it.
  7. I have Watch-O-Scope 1.2 Pro. To update to v1.3 do I just download from the website and hope it overwrites 1.2 without messing up my license? Cheers, Kevin
  8. I've done it once, to get rid of a deep gouge in the glass crystal of an LCD watch. I used wet papers starting with 400 grit and ending with 5000 grit, then cerium oxide applied with a Dremel at low speed to polish. The end result looks perfect after removing about 0.2mm of glass in total, which took 5 hours work. I'd think twice before attempting it again, much less hassle to source a new crystal if possible. For acrylic I use Meguiar's Plast-RX which works just the same as Polywatch at about 100th of the cost - £8 for a 250ml bottle from Halfords in the UK.
  9. Excellent advice above, particularly about dressing your screwdriver blades correctly. I started with a £5 set of drivers from Maplin which were fine as long as I looked after the tips. I would only add that I found modest magnification to be a great help when handling those little screws. I always use a 2.5x Binomag for all general watch work with higher mag devices for the trickier jobs. Get some magnification and stick at it, you will improve in no time.
  10. One year on, how have you got on with servicing the 5y23? I might soon have one of my own that will need some tlc so I'm keen to benefit from your experience.
  11. I've only polished a glass crystal once. It was deeply scratched, about 0.3mm deep, and I used wet papers from 400 to 5000 grit. I tried a Dremel with cerium oxide on a 25mm felt mop for final polishing but it was far better at pebble-dashing the walls than polishing the glass. Finally I used the same mop in my drill press, set to 700 rpm, which did the trick. The whole process took me about 5 hours so I'm not keen to repeat it. I did wonder if the wet/dry part of the process could be mechanised in some way to speed it up. I imagine that any kind of handheld rotary tool could easily
  12. I'm considering buying one of the 5700 back openers but not fully understanding what I'm seeing in the photos that accompany the listings for these things. Just what are those 8 white blocks of various shapes that sit behind the main body of the tool?
  13. That’s a great link, thanks. Seems I got it right, more by omission than conscious decision!
  14. I've been servicing movements for a couple of years now and am slowly getting the hang of it. I lubricate pallet stones with 9415 but have never thought about whether I should lube the impulse jewel. Is it a case , like pallet fork pivots, that the torque is so small that lubing the impulse jewel will kill amplitude? Apologies for yet another lubrication question but my searches have not yielded any guidance on this particular subject.
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