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  1. Thanks Stefan. I must say this is a super bit of software, much more versatile than any timing machine I've seen. I made a lashup microphone stand to get me going, with the intention of making a "proper" one after a few weeks. That was over 2 years ago and I still haven't made the "proper" one. Also the only quad op amp in my bits box was an LM349, which is quite hissy but the software manages to filter out the signal from all the noise just fine. Very useful, I wouldn't be without it.
  2. I have Watch-O-Scope 1.2 Pro. To update to v1.3 do I just download from the website and hope it overwrites 1.2 without messing up my license? Cheers, Kevin
  3. I've done it once, to get rid of a deep gouge in the glass crystal of an LCD watch. I used wet papers starting with 400 grit and ending with 5000 grit, then cerium oxide applied with a Dremel at low speed to polish. The end result looks perfect after removing about 0.2mm of glass in total, which took 5 hours work. I'd think twice before attempting it again, much less hassle to source a new crystal if possible. For acrylic I use Meguiar's Plast-RX which works just the same as Polywatch at about 100th of the cost - £8 for a 250ml bottle from Halfords in the UK.
  4. Excellent advice above, particularly about dressing your screwdriver blades correctly. I started with a £5 set of drivers from Maplin which were fine as long as I looked after the tips. I would only add that I found modest magnification to be a great help when handling those little screws. I always use a 2.5x Binomag for all general watch work with higher mag devices for the trickier jobs. Get some magnification and stick at it, you will improve in no time.
  5. One year on, how have you got on with servicing the 5y23? I might soon have one of my own that will need some tlc so I'm keen to benefit from your experience.
  6. I've only polished a glass crystal once. It was deeply scratched, about 0.3mm deep, and I used wet papers from 400 to 5000 grit. I tried a Dremel with cerium oxide on a 25mm felt mop for final polishing but it was far better at pebble-dashing the walls than polishing the glass. Finally I used the same mop in my drill press, set to 700 rpm, which did the trick. The whole process took me about 5 hours so I'm not keen to repeat it. I did wonder if the wet/dry part of the process could be mechanised in some way to speed it up. I imagine that any kind of handheld rotary tool could easily cause optical aberrations in the crystal simply by removing more material in some areas than in others. It occurred to me that it might be possible to use an orbital sander upside down with the abrasive paper secured somehow to the baseplate. While that might work for a flat crystal it might not be so good for a curved profile. Also one would need to prevent water getting inside the sander. Just random thoughts, not sure what the solution for Anthony1979 might be.
  7. I'm considering buying one of the 5700 back openers but not fully understanding what I'm seeing in the photos that accompany the listings for these things. Just what are those 8 white blocks of various shapes that sit behind the main body of the tool?
  8. That’s a great link, thanks. Seems I got it right, more by omission than conscious decision!
  9. I've been servicing movements for a couple of years now and am slowly getting the hang of it. I lubricate pallet stones with 9415 but have never thought about whether I should lube the impulse jewel. Is it a case , like pallet fork pivots, that the torque is so small that lubing the impulse jewel will kill amplitude? Apologies for yet another lubrication question but my searches have not yielded any guidance on this particular subject.
  10. Thanks all, I now have all the info I need.
  11. Thanks for your help, with which I think I can answer my own question - though confirmation from the experts would be nice! The square gold watch has a symbol under the balance with a "P" in it and "330" underneath, which I think might be Peseux. The SS watch has a symbol under the dial "FEF 190". Fleurier perhaps? A shot of the keyless works for the FEF 190 is included for info.
  12. I don't normally touch other peoples' watches but on this occasion a good friend asked if I could have a look at 2 of his 50 year old watches and hopefully improve them. Both dials and movements are signed Winegartens and one case has Dennisons stamped inside the back. Both movements run quite well despite never having been serviced. If possible I would like to find service documentation for these but of course I need to know something about the movements first. Can anyone help me to identify them please?
  13. Sorry, my Amphibia is quite new and I have no useful knowledge of the older ones.
  14. I'm guessing your movements are the same as my Amphibia, in which the seconds pinion is held in place by a weak cantilever spring. Pressing the seconds hand in place simply pushes the shaft down against the spring so that the seconds hand doesn't engage properly on the shaft. You need to brace the seconds pinion from the back to prevent it moving when you attach the seconds hand. I just use my finger to brace the pinion but I daresay there are other more proper ways to do it.
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