Jump to content

7750 service help


Recommended Posts

Is this the correct orientation for the chronograph cam? My first go was a fail so just want to check I’ve got everything in the right place before I proceed further

 

592229fa5ffa064eb081cbe577ef1a1e.jpg

 

In one of marks videos he states that he has engaged the cam (given it a slight turn with his tweezers), so he can fit the chronograph runner wheel. I think this is what I’ve done?

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 4/4/2019 at 8:35 PM, HSL said:

Seems to be in place.. On the wrong device to see clearly but will upload a pic which you can compare with..

IMG_20190404_212139.jpg

Thanks alot, as far as I can see I'm good to progress further.

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 4/4/2019 at 8:53 PM, watchweasol said:

Hi AP  there is a service document on cousins uk site I have loaded the pdf exploded diagram might be of some assistance for you

1075_ValJoux 7750 Pages 8-13.pdf 4.65 MB · 2 downloads

Thanks for the help, I do have those diagrams from eta. The cam orientation is totally different from the videos I've seen and also Lawsons tutorial, so not sure if it actually works in the position the diagram, which is odd.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The 7750 is quite straight forward to work with I add some pics which shows you what to look for and help you in the progress..

Good luck and keep up the good work!

A1.jpg

A2.jpg

A3.jpg

A3_B.jpg

A4.jpg

A4_B.jpg

A5.jpg

A6.jpg

A7.jpg

A8.jpg

A9.jpg

A10.jpg

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

You've confirmed a couple of things with those pictures, so thanks for taking the time to do this. Fingers crossed i'm going to get a chance to assemble it tomorrow, hopefully I can post a video of it working 

Link to comment
Share on other sites



  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • As I'm only cleaning watches in small numbers at home, I pre-clean any significant deposits of old grease and oil before using the cleaning solutions. I scrape off deposits with pegwood and Rodico, and if really dirty, wash parts in naphtha with a brush.  So I'm happy using DX, but can understand why it's avoided by the pros.
    • I think attaching a nut to the lid to pull it off is the least destructive, any damage damage on the outside is going to an easier fix than any created when trying to push it out from the inside. Scratching up the inside of the lid , mainspring or arbor bearing will be risk. Just my opinion.
    • yes the things we read in the universe I did see some where it was either difficult to clean off or it contaminated the cleaning fluid there was some issue with cleaning. I was trying to remember something about grease where as opposed to a substance of a specific consistency they were suggesting it had a base oil with something to thicken it. That conceivably could indicate that the two could separate and that would be an issue. But there is something else going on here that I had remembered so I have a link below and the description of the 9501 notice the word that I highlighted? Notice that word appears quite a bit on this particular page like 9415 has that property all so they 8200 mainspring grease and that definitely has to be mixed up when you go to use it because it definitely separates. just in case you didn't remember that nifty word there is a Wikipedia entry. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Thixotropy   https://www.moebius-lubricants.ch/en/products/greases I wonder if what you're seeing is the boron nitride left behind after cleaning. In other words it's the high-pressure part of the grease and it's probably embedding itself into the metal which is why it doesn't clean off and shouldn't be a problem?
    • Yes and no. I use Moebius 9501 synthetic grease and it is significantly runnier than the Moebius 9504 synthetic grease (and I assume Molykote DX) that I previously used. I haven't seen 9504 spread and it is in my opinion the best grease money can buy. However, my current method of cleaning doesn't remove it from the parts, so that's why I have decided to use the 9501 instead. I believe I read somewhere that Molykote DX too is difficult to clean off. Thinking about it, I'm pretty sure my 9501 grease which expired in June 2022 is runnier now than it was when it was new, but whether new or old it always needs to be stirred before use. So, that's why I treat the parts of the keyless works, cannon pinion, etc. with epilame. That was very thoughtful of you and something that had completely passed me by. Not sure what the epilame will do when it wears off in a non-oiled hole. Anyone?
    • Hi not found one either yet,  close relative is the 436 and 4361 according to ranff.db.   It gives quire a lot of detail but not as good as the old site.      RANFF.DB.
×
×
  • Create New...