Jump to content
  • 0

My seiko speedtimer 7015 keeps stopping when the chronograph activated but runs smoothly wheh chronograph off


Go to solution Solved by jguitron,

Question

Hello guys,

I have some problem with my seiko 7015 speedtimer that i bought 2 days ago..

This seiko runs smoothly when chronograph off

And when the chronograph is active,the watch runs for awhile and then stop..

Whats wrong with it and maybe you guys can help me with some solution please!!

thanks

20190221_115443.jpg

Link to post
Share on other sites

10 answers to this question

Recommended Posts

  • 0

Interesting...It's usually the other way around. Watch stops when chronograph stopped.

I think the second hand may be touching the glass. (its sitting to high?)

Or the centre chronograph wheel is warped and dragging on something maybe.

Or lastly the power reserve is poor and extra needed to run second hand is not enough.

Edited by Melt
  • Thanks 1
Link to post
Share on other sites
  • 0
On 2/22/2019 at 3:05 PM, Calvin said:

This seiko runs smoothly when chronograph off

And when the chronograph is active,the watch runs for awhile and then stop..

Does anyone have any idea what the cause may be? I have the same problem. Movement was cleaned and oiled. With chrono off everything is ok. When chrono is on movement stops but it stops in the same second hand position. I think that could be some friction between 4th wheel located on chrono wheel and with the coupling lever. I must do some revision at this point...

friction.jpg

Link to post
Share on other sites
  • 0

I have no idea so sorry for not being able help. But as I love watching watch repairing videos, this one came to my mind when reading your post. I think it's the oposite problem, the watch stopping with the chrono off, but just in case it has something to do.

I apologize if it has nothing to do with your question :angel:

 

Link to post
Share on other sites
  • 0

I grab a seconds wheel spoke by tweezers, push to turn the wheel past the point it gets stuck. If it stops over and again at the same point, I go for visual examination of teeth under high magnification.

I ususally mark a dot on all subsequent wheels, to check their postion of, at stops, and work my way back to the fault. Needless to say the fault is expectedly at a joint of chrono complication and the base caliber. Unless a culprit, only your checks can be advised to a lead to the fault.

Best Regards.         Joe the:judge:man. 

 

Link to post
Share on other sites
  • 0

I removed coupling lever near chrono wheel to be sure that it is not a cause of stuck the movement. Nothing change. Than I removed pallet fork and let the movement run freely. When I looked closer the chrono wheel I noticed that the shaft is bent and cause the 4th wheel does not run in horizontal position but it is "wavy". I do not think I could repair it... :(

Link to post
Share on other sites
  • 0

Hi  You could try using a pin vise, place the bent shaft in the vise and gently close the vise, Checking for progress each time. Doing this will hopefully put pressure on the shaft evenly and as long as the shaft is not pot hard it will probably work. The key word is work slowly with frequent checking. The wavey wheel is probably due to the bent shaft, but if that is not the case and you get the shaft straight then using strong tweezers you can straighten the wheel.  Take great care and do not rush the job.

Link to post
Share on other sites
  • 0

I replaced the chrono wheel for another one and... the same. Movement stucks but in the other seconds hand position. I have no idea. When chrono is off and clutch is on everythings is ok. It's strange - usually it is going other way - stops when chrono off.
I inspected all wheels, cleaned them one more time by rodico and got them bath in aceton. No result

Link to post
Share on other sites


  • Similar Content

  • Recently Browsing

    No registered users viewing this page.

  • Topics

  • Posts

    • Hi! Judging by your description of the mainspring, it appears it is bent or misshapen. This could be a possible problem and I would suggest you change it. By your description of the watch sound (galloping horse) and the high amplitude, specially for a Seiko, I would  agree this sounds like rebanking.    I would recommend trying to find a barrel complete assembly and replace, if you don’t have a mainspring winder. As trying to wind the mainspring by hand will likely damage it (specially the automatic ones with the bridle). I damaged many.    cheers and best of luck! 
    • This is how your spring should look. Your looks a bit bent out of shape, but as long as it pushes up in the correct place on the underside of the sweep second pinion, all will be good. As has already been said,  the brake spring (which is made from beryllium copper) pushes from underneath the pinion and needs a small dot of grease on the spring where it makes contact with the underneath of the pinion leaves. It tends to be obvious which way it pushes the sweep second pinion, either from the top of bottom, when you see the spring in place without the sweep second pinion. The spring will show it is pushing down or pushing up, unless it has been badly mis-shappened like yours.
    • That looks like a ratchet wheel problem. Perhaps it disengaged from the barrel arbor. Other possibilities would be a broken Mainspring, although that would be less likely if this is a relatively new movement. You have to remove the automatic works to get a better look. I have a video on YouTube on regulating the ETA 2824 (The Sellita SW200 is a clone of the ETA 2824) in which I specifically demonstrate how to remove the automatic works. This will give you a better idea on what's going on. Good luck     
    • I finished cleaning stakes and stumps (25 stumps) today. It is a complete set, no doubles and one broken. Very nice condition.    Some of the stumps were not easy to polish but it was worth it. I have everything grouped by type; I will clean up the box and re glue the Bakelite stake holder rack. One rack had broken, but I was able to reattach the piece, and I also flowed a bit of glue between the holders on the underside, so it was a sturdier piece. One broken holder happened in the past, and that piece wasn’t included for reattachment.    The tool itself got some love too. The guide was very tight (too tight) in the top so I took it out, polished it and reinstalled it after cleaning. Now it rotates tightly, but does not require pliers. There’s a leaf spring inside the guide to keep the stake in use from sliding down onto the work. That’s a nice touch. And it works. Die plate also got a light coat of oil, although the plate is pristine.    The box will be cleaned, oiled and then have furniture polish applied. I think after that, it’ll look good enough to not need a full tear down and refinish. 
    • I have often  pondered  this same question. But as far as I can figure the aftermarket  for dials other than seiko ETA miyota and ronda  movements  is non existant.  You should  be able to repurpose  dials  with a bit of experimentation. 
×
×
  • Create New...