I open this thread to archive works on Citizen 8110A Bullhead. I purchased this watch in poor condition as You can see on the photos.
Cause I have serviced few chronographs in the past I decide to try restore this watch. Maybe is not ractional from the economical aspect but we do this because we love it So let's open it.
Hands are in good condition (required repaint and relume) but the dial has broken legs and tachy scale is faded :/ I think it's really hard to find orginal and there is no gold aftermarket replacement - sad. Look at the movement.
Gosh, what a dirty place It needs good cleaning and oiling.
But the biggest problems are this.
Broken post on main spring bridge and missing rocking bar core and screw in gear train. I need to find replacement.
While I'll be working on movement the case and pushers are send to renew - putting new gold plated coat
Hey everyone, I cant find out how to get this drown off and I've tried everything. The Miyota JS25 movement says PUSH and points to a hole which I've learned means this is where you press to reease the crown but I still can't get the crown out no matter which position the crown is in. I first tried with the crown all the way out then with it halfway in, then all the way in and haven't been able to get it out, please help.
I wish I had more projects to report on but things have really bogged down lately as I continue to bite of more than I can chew. I'm in the middle of three long term projects (the Favre Leuba Bivouac going on year three) and am running short of workbench space. I'm in the middle of changing out the engine in my wife's Mini Cooper too (that's another story but if you own a Mini- be sure and replace the timing chain guides!) and that has really eaten into my "fun time".
I thought I'd bring this one to the board for comments before I'm underwater- it's an old Gallet from the 60's. Do you think it can be salvaged?
We clearly have some water damaged however, the seconds hand will move if the crown is given a little pressure.
Water entered in through the chronograph buttons and the pendant tube. I haven't tried depressing the buttons- I think that would just lead to bits snapping and rust moving about.
I'll need a new stem for sure...
The dial actually looks quite good.
I wonder what it looks like underneath though...
It's not terrible, but it's not great either. Most of the rust damage is concentrated in the keyless works.
There's a bit of damage to the hour recording mechanism...
That's as far as I've gotten thus far. The screw for the Operating Lever is rusted tight and is now being treated with a bit of penetrating oil. Once removed I can pull the second pusher button out and remove the movement from the case. I'll know the full extent of the damage once it's in a pile of bits and pieces.
This is an Excelsior Park EP40-68 movement. I've wanted to work on one of these for quite a while but couldn't afford a proper working piece. Excelsior Park parts are difficult to source though so I may not be able to bring this one back to life.
Well, this is my first effort of a watch repair. I have been fascinated with watches, clocks and all kinds of mechanical things since a young age. I decided at this time that working on watches would be a great hobby/interest to take up in my later years. I have already spent some time learning to refurbish and repair fishing reels in the last few years. So here is my first repair attempt.
Interest in tinkering watches started when I dropped my Seiko SKX009KD diver to the tile floor in the bathroom. Was not too good an idea to put a watch on there with a towel thrown over it, pulled the towel and down comes the watch, face down on the tile floor. Needless to say, I picked it up and took a look, nothing seen. Then I shake it and hear a rattle. Not too good!
So I did some research on the 7S26C movements. Read a lot of information and watched a lot of videos. Thanks to all that makes this information available. So I purchased a cheap watch tool kit from Amazon. I had other watches that needed batteries and some strap work anyway. I knew the kit would not be 'pro' grade, but it was a nice kit with all the basic tools needed.
Back to the rattle, I figured the Oscillating Weight (OW) had become separated from the bearing. So I used the case back wrench in the kit and opened the back, and sure enough that was the problem. I looked on-line for a replacement OW but could not find any except one on Ebay for $35! So I decided, what the heck, I'll try to repair this one. So, here is what I did being a little mechanically inclined but never at this small a scale, I performed the following:
1) remove case back.
2) examine the OW, it was dislodged/loose from the bearing.
3) remove center OW bearing from center post.
4) place OW on a small anvil, then use a small pin punch from the kit as to carefully work the metal around the OW's hole as to make the bearing hole smaller.
6) After enough working with the punch, I took a smooth round stone and gently kept working the ID of the OW hole until it just would friction fit to the surface of the OW bearing.
7) carefully press fit the bearing into the OW, I knew too much pressure would ruin the small bearing races and ball bearings.
8) finalized fitting of the bearing to the OW by applying a very small amount of red Locktite thread locker using the end of a pin as an 'oiler'.
9) I then let the OW set for a day to cure the Locktite
10) install OW per alignment instructions in the 7S26C technical guide. At this time I also wound the mainspring up 8 turns to check the power, it ran for about 40 hours.
11) did not have any watch oil, so I used a very small amount of some 10W synthetic engine oil using a small pin as the oiler to lubricate the OW bearing ONLY.
It appears to be a successful repair for now, watch been running great and keeping good time for about 2 months. I'm sure something else might have gotten damaged during the fall, especially the balance assembly, but then again the watch is working fine for now. I might use this particular watch to dive deeper into the 7S26 movement at a later time. Kind of happy for now. Got 2 other watches running with new batteries, fitted some straps and having fun with my new hobby. Look forward to learning some more. Now to find a 'bag o watches at a flea market and get busy. I know I'm going to need more and quality tools down the road, that's OK with me.
No registered users viewing this page.
There's flat and there's flat. If you're doing a screw for an old high grade (or new) watch that's mirror polished flat you need specific tools and you need to finish on tin or zinc or similar with some sort of paste. Back in the day it was usually diamantine (aluminum oxide), nowadays usually diamond. There's an order of magnitude of effort between pretty flat and shiny and dead flat and mirror finish inspected at 30x magnification. For a case screw 'pretty flat and shiny' is almost certainly A-OK. No need to get freaky with it.
New to watches, I would venture a guess. Since it was behaving as expected for a full 8 days, then started to switch the date incorrectly, would imply something broke, or became misaligned, or loose at day 8. Obviously I haven’t a clue, but it’s fun to speculate! would appreciate and update when you figure it out.