Can someone please explain to me how on earth do i unwind this Seiko 5126A movement prior to reassembly? (Picture attached).
No manual winding as far as I could find and the winding screw on top of the bridge is not counterturning automatically when I push back the click and basically nothing happens. I can unscrew it but this just releases the screw.
I'll mention that I did experimented with this movement (it's my watch) and first time accidently removed the bridge with power still left. No visible harm was found and after reassembly (hopefully a proper one) everything seemed in order (except for the oiling and cleaning which I haven't yet performed and is due now).
Hello all. I recently purchased what I though was a Seiko 5 project watch. The case back says the movement is a Seiko 6309- 7200 movement. However when I removed the works (and disassembled) it was not a 6309, at least I don't think it is. FE 5612 is stamped on the movement plate and when I looked that up I found pictures of the exact movement on the Ranfft Watches site. So I guess I have two questions. First did Seiko use this movement on their watches and somebody perhaps changed case back, or did someone replace the Seiko works with the FE 5612. Second, does anyone know of a location to find a service manual for the FE 5612 movement? It does not seem to want to go back together nicely (do they ever?) and I am wondering if I have something misplaced as the only description I could find states: "Strange. Train and Hand Gear separately driven by barrel (cf. MSR T43)." I also need a stem and crown and don't have a part number.
Thanks for any and all information.
Hello everyone. I have a really sad story and I am a complete amateur. I am a machinist for a living so I thought I would give a crack at making a frankenwatch, however it did not go as planned and now I have a movement with subdials that don’t work and a whole lot of parts and money invested and I don’t know what to do. I need the help of a professional. The donor movement was a NOS, new old stock, and was running perfectly, however I messed up almost everything attempting to make this watch. I will happily ship all of the parts needed to complete this watch and pay for any repair that need to be made and for the return shipping. I need the help of a professional how can repair and assemble the watch with the parts and return it to me. I will pay for everything, the labor, replacement parts, return shipping, I just need someone’s help.
Details about the project:
movement: valjoux 7733
dial: vintage NOS angelus chronograph dial
case: custom machined case
Today I show off what is probably the most accurate Seiko NH35 in existence.
Let's see what this brand spankin' new Invicta does on the timegrapher:
Oof. Ya hate ta see it. I know these numbers aren't anything to cry over for an 80 dollar automatic, but considering how these days microbrands stick this movement in watches costing hundreds more, and Seiko themselves with the equivalent 4R in watches costing even more, it's just not great. The rate itself to me is a trivial matter as nudging on the regulator is a trivial task. But what speaks to the quality of a movement in my eyes is the consistency of that rate in different positions. With 12 seconds per day difference across positions, middling amplitude, and fluctuating rate while static, albeit slight, is all just a bit "meh" to me.
Let's crack it open and see what we can do.
Hairspring seems to be pulling towards stud.
Hairspring removed from balance and mounted on cock and we can see the full extent of the malformity. That collet is a good ways off from the jewel.
Few hours of sweat later:
Much better! Regulator now runs the full length of the terminal curve without disturbance and collet is centered on jewel.
Let's check out what else I saw:
Some places are absolutely flooded.
While others just barely got any. A good thing I intervened. This thing needed to be redone top to bottom.
Stripped apart, ready to get rid of the crappy factory lube job, and get a real, proper lube job.
All put together, lubed, and few rounds of dynamic poising later:
Massive boost in amplitude, runs on rails and a measly 1 second difference across all positions. Wasn't lying when I said "probably the most accurate Seiko NH35 in existence." See for yourself.
Isn't it at the moment a bit of a waste that this souped up NH35 is being trapped inside its Invicta skin? What do you think?
Hi, so I recently got a seiko 5 snk809 and it was working fine, I then decided to regulate it as it was losing about 1 minute a day. After I regulated it it was working fine then stopped so I shook it to wind it up and then it started working. After 5 minutes it stopped again so I wound it up and it would work but then stop after a couple of minutes. I checked to see if the watch was being winded and it was, so the watch had power but just wouldn't move, I dont know why this is, the watch has power but will only run for a minute or two when I shake it, this hasn't happened before to this watch, so if anyone could help that would be great.
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Picked up a tank style watch, mainly due to the nice dial, crystal and case condition (plus the 2 euro price.. :-) ) Found a single (?) jewel pin lever movement inside, with a completely messed up h/s but otherwise reasonably ok looking. I realize the chances are slim to find parts for something like this but thought I should at least see if I could get an ID on the movement. Pic’s are attached. https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200924/3aedceafc500a040bd6942b9a4be76ee.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200924/fcd3b2ef2691ea3cde1dc9dc4f6f3c7f.jpg Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
That balance has a different number of screws, a different number of hairspring coils and a significantly different stud location. It could have the hairspring accidentally fitted 180 degrees around, or it could be from a different caliber. It’s unlikely to be the former if it is NOS as it would be roughly adjusted for beat-error in the factory.
There is a chance is from the same family with different build, some manufacturers use the same wheel over a few models. Do as Nucejoe suggests and move the balance spring into position to match the old one. Also check the balance rim for a stud index mark it may have been placed on wrong in the first place.