I was given a 1973 seiko lord matic (5600-9001) recently and I am very fond of it. The acrylic is in pretty good condition and the case isn't too scared up. There are only 3 problems with the watch. First, the case is a little bit dirty between the lugs. Second it gains about 15 seconds a day. Thirdly, the original bracelet is too small, so I tried to replace it and found that one of the spring bars is stuck. I don't really know what to do with the watch so I came here to get some advice. Should I take it to a local jeweler, send it to the seiko service center (probably a bad idea), or try to work on it myself? If there is anyone on the site that is able to work on the watch I would consider that as well.
Hi, the bracelet on my SARB033 is a D385-3C, it's currently too small for me to wear. I have two spare links, but no pins for them. On removing a pin from the bracelet I found it to be nothing like a cotter pin, nor did it appear to be a "pin and tube". It was more like a pin with a thicker end that was knurled .
I'm looking for resources to purchase a few of these pins, also links and pins for a JDM Seiko (a Grey Ghost titanium kinetic)
Can anyone point me in the right direction?
Hi all , Just thought I would share with you guys and gals a video of a Seiko Pressure tester purchased some time ago .Its part of the traveling tool kit that I take to service friends and relatives watches on the go . Anyway it's a Seiko S-451 pressure tester and it is probably from the 80s or early 90s and very useful for vintage water resistant watches and quarts . I had to upload it to youtube so I could paste on the forum .I restored the Tissot Seastar that you will see as it was a complete no runner with numerous problems .Anyway check it out and enjoy a cigar and a vino rosso https://youtu.be/n8dbQLwsHbg
Hi, I recently purchased a Seiko GMT Perpetual off eBay. The watch has a 8f56 Movement which is the high accuracy quartz movement.
The watch was purchased with a low battery (indicated by the second hand ticking every 5 seconds).
I've since replaced the battery and reset the perpetual calendar, the watch was working for about 3 hours and then just stopped. I've since tried to reset the perpetual calendar again and it doesn't do anything just completely dead.
I recently went to a local watch repair shop and they said it would need a entirely new movement and would set me back £250 for it. It would however be done by Seiko not themselves.
Any help is much appreciated.
I have a UG Tri-Compax from the 1950s or 60s (Calibre 281): The chronograph (centre) seconds hand can’t turn past 58.5 seconds and the whole watch stops ticking/working (nothing moving/turning in the movement). However, when the reset pusher (4 o’clock) is kept pressed, it enables the seconds hand and watch to move/tick again. The reset pusher is released when the chrono seconds hand reaches 60: the watch resumes ticking and the hands move until the chrono seconds hand reaches 58.5s again. The process is repeated.
It has been noticed that if the watch is held face down then the reset pusher “procedure” doesn’t always work (i.e. the watch does not resume ticking/moving). It’s usually necessary to turn the watch over and try to press the pusher a few times in order to make the seconds hands move again.
The 30-minute sub-dial at 3 o’clock has stopped working, too.
If the chrono is not activated, then the watch seems to run properly.
That hairspring looks great, good job!
As for the amplitude (and stopping in 30 seconds?), I suppose you've checked all the usual things, train freedom, endshakes everywhere, peg your holes especially for the fork pivots, check that the barrel has shake on its arbor and the lid is well seated.
I am one of those people interested in everything from fine wine to firearms, history, science, medicen, technology art etc lately I have been learning about fine watches and automatic movements in particular. Just like with my firearms and golf equiptment I search for the perfect "it" for fit for me. Some call it the grail. At any rate I currently like Submariners and Submariner homeages. I own an Invicta 9937ob which has a very accurate sw200 movement and looks good on the wrist if I can make a couple of mods. My ideal watch at this time would be a prototype which I doubt currently exists - a Submariner style 16610 type with 904l steel but with Submariner in Red and Chomalite blue lume instead of the green superlume. Finally. A sapphire case back with Gold internal. There is a company that mods real Rolex dial and many places offer custom relume in bgw9 blue. That leaves open the question of whether building a prototype of that watch is possible. I always want to stay within all of the laws so that modification of Rolex parts assembled with real rolex orca mixture of aftermarket parts is legal and for my own enjoyment not to sell or pass as an original Rolex product. I like the white gold hpur markers and the classic size and style case of the 16610. I think adding the red Submariner text with chomalite blue hours hands and pip and sapphire case back with gold internal especially rotor would product a rather satisfying "it" watch. Finally, I would like a real chonometer movement my eye on original 3135 or a 2892 movement and real 300m water resistent with proper gaskets saphire crystal etc. Anyone have any guiding thoughts or words of wisdome for the project? Thank you very respectfully