Hi all, newbie here. I guess I've ended up a bit of a watch fan with a bunch of watches in my current collection (pic below), plus a few others I've sold.
I haven't done that much modding of my watches, just battery changes and realigning hands on a few occasions. But I did put together a Series One watch from buildyourownwatch.com a few years (which I've actually sold since). At some point I would like to get more into building my own design, but baby steps first
Anyway, my Helgray Field Officer II watch has been a trusty daily beater for some time, with a quartz Ronda 515 movement. The battery ran out a few weeks ago, so I ordered a replacement, put it in - watch didn't restart? Tried with a different battery, nada. Both were new batteries in original packaging with expiry dates years in the future. After looking around I found a few others online saying they'd had similar experiences when replacing the battery on a Ronda 515 movement. Seems like the movement is prone to dying at battery replacement time.
So after a bit of hunting around at specs and seeing what I could easily get a hold of locally, I decided to give an ETA F06.111 movement a go as a replacement (https://shopb2b.eta.ch/f06-111-f06.1111597973808.html). It's shows up on the ETA website as discontinued and replaced by F06.115, but I couldn't find that locally and there didn't seem to be much difference between them.
There was a 0.5mm difference in stem to dial height from the F06.111 to Ronda 515, but hand sizes etc. were all the same, and the key deciding factor was a much better battery life - 68 months using a Renata 371, as opposed to 45 months for the 515.
Good news - it all worked. Switched over the hands to the new movement - even with tweezers and a hand press, I still find fitting hands the fiddliest of all! The hands maybe did get a little beat up from pinging out of my tweezers so often. The second hand isn't perfectly aligned but maybe I'll have another go some other time on that. Seems to me there's a market for a simple watch hand-friendly clamp, with a fine x-y axis adjustment to line it up to the dial and press mechanism to fit hands accurately and softly. Also needed to switch the crown onto the new stem and cut it to fit. Once the stem is in the new movement, the crown does sit at a slight angle if you look closely from the side, due to the 0.5mm difference in stem to dial height between the movements, but the actual date/time mechanism etc all works fine.
I have a Renata 395 battery on the way, which the ETA movement can take and ups the battery life to 94 months!
A few pics, and the Field Officer back in the working collection
I am considering selling leather watch straps, but I have a question before I blindly go ahead and produce a bunch of them.
I am wondering if anybody who has worked in the industry for a while can tell me what the most common sizes are of strap pins or lug widths?
I would really appreciate it. Thanks in advance.
I'm new here and into watch/horology world as well. I recently tried to replace the dial on my 7750 watch.
1) Open the wathc case
2) removed rotor
3) removed stem (gentle push of remove stem pusher and pull the stem out)
4) removed the movement from the case
5) put movment to movement holder
6) removed hands
7) removed dial
8) put new dial
9) pressed the hands back, hovewer during setting it up I realized the movement is not running - even when I wind it up - it is solid/stable and not ticking at all..
Kind of out of ideas what can went wrong, the movement was functional correctly before..
Thank you for any ideas.
Hello, I'm building a watch using a Sellita SW200 and I bought an ETA 2824 dial. The dial has four feet and so does my movement, but they don't line up, the ones on the dial are too far apart relative to the movement. I think if I cut off two feet I can make it fit but I'm not 100% sure.
Is this a common scenario?
I know this is a long shot but would anyone happen to have the technical sheet for the ETA 1164. I acquired this little beauty on ebay; a non-runner from the USA, which needs a lot of TLC. I've never tackled anything quite like this one but fancied the challenge. However, I'm not 100% sure yet whether the everything on the bottom plate under the dial is complete - can anyone confirm? The top plate however looks fine. The watch back is stamped "Seeland Watch Co. Swiss" - having looked it up, it appears Frederick Seeland was once CEO for IWC! Nice historical timepiece once I've restored it. I've added a few photos for reference (yes, I've removed the balance ).
Thanks in advance.
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Some folks are much more into the thick oil trick than others. Prob a useful trick to help narrow down problems. Good point about the heat/viscosity changes. Dennison "strength" just means thickness, although it's similar to wire gauges, lower number is thicker, higher is thinner. Just ignore the Dennison numbers and use metric if possible. If it is overpowered (unclear if that is the case here), the metric .10 thickness might be underpowered (might be preferable to overpowered), as the GR specs show a .105mm mainspring. Good to go with the spec mainspring if it's available? I don't have enough experience to say if +.05 or -.05 thickness should make that much of a difference, prob case-by-case.
I've always been impressed by Mark, when he disassembles the movement and lines all the screws up together by size for his decorative parts photos, mixing up their respective "layers" in the process. With attention to detail and experience I think it's possible to recognize each one, and they only go back together one way. I'm not there yet, keep 'em seperated with their respective parts.
Tip: don't loose parts. Good practiced technique helps but it's a known hazard. Arrange your workspace so that springs and screws that do go missing are easy to locate. Put a back face on your desk, and ridges on the other edges. Keep your floor space clean and uncluttered. You can use magnet to comb the floor (some people make magnet brooms for this) and you should be able to find your parts. Trust that they are there, it just takes patience. I work over a carpet (! 😬) and with my magnet-on-a-stick I still manage to find 95% of missing parts. There's tricks to springs and screws: using pegwood to de-tension or hold the spring; using rodico to hold parts as you remove them; holding a thin clear plastic bag over the movement while you remove the part to catch it if it does try to leave. There's lots of parts that are hard or impossible to replace. Fortunately, those "shepards hook" springs are not particularly special, you can buy them in bulk for a few dollars from your parts supplier and use the one in the pack that fits best.
I removed the hairspring and put it back together to ensure a gap between hairspring the balance arms. This still doesn't work and I believe there is too much end shake. There is a remarkable vertical movement when lifting the balance wheel while installed.