Hello, I've been struggling for two evenings now to fit the train bridge on this ETA 2832. Every time it looks like all pivots are aligned through the jewel holes and I begin tightening the bridge, the wheels begin locking up. On closer examination, it looks to me like the 4th wheel is not seating flush against the centre tube as shown in one of my photos. I believe this because the pinion on the 4th wheel is higher than that of the escape wheel, and equally about the same measurement out between the 4th wheel and the 3rd wheel pinion, which is lower. It also looks like the 4th wheel is fouling under the train bridge.
In your opinion, would my suspicion be correct or should the 4th wheel's pinion rest approx. 1 to 1.5mm above the flange of the centre tube. If it should be flush, do you have any tips to seating it as such? I have obviously tried carefully wriggling it under light pressure without luck. I've added an extra photo showing the placed wheels during disassembly to give some context.
Thanks in advance
Join me as I strip down, service and review this Chinese ETA 2892-A2 clone. Seagull ST1812 watch movement. There was a couple of issues to deal with but altogether a fairly impressive movement for the price.
Im working on an ETA 2783, and suspect that the canon pinion is to tight against the lower wheel.
So I have to make it a little bit more loose...
Has anybody done this befor?
And how it the best way to do this?
Working on a Tudor Oyster Prince with ref no: 2081/4 with a ETA 2784 movment.
Cleaned and inspected, all looks good, no sign of wear and tear on the main spring, no sharps bend, looks overall good. Noticed that there where some marks on the barrel wall. But that I have seen before witout any drama....
Oiled it , put togeher , goes like a dream..... but the the spring does not stick, it snaps over after 6,5 turns by crown.
So the question is:
Can I just replace the main spring?
Can I just replace the main spring and do something with the barrel walls ?
Buy a new barrel with spring? Is it to be sourced?
I have this vintage Seiko digital LCD watch from around 1985. The "dial" seems to be very dirty and I'm wondering how I can go about cleaning it. It looks like its mostly dirt and grime. What can I use to clean it? I tried looking around for a NOS dial with no luck...
Another mistake.. bent the spring the wrong side... i had to cut it off and bend it again however it seems that I fixed the mainspring and the clock started to work. Yes it is shorter now by 10-15 mm but it works. I am really happy.
Your Seiko Watch is considered a very inexpensive watch by even Seiko standards. We recently had discussions on Seiko watches and timekeeping there is an exact procedures Seiko recommends for timing. Casually your numbers are super good for a watch of this grade.
Then tech sheets are really handy because this watch is using what's known as the etachron system. This is why I quoted something above on a normal watch you can push on the spring to get things in alignment but with this system both the stud can be rotated and you can rotate the regulator pins. You're supposed to have a special tool but you can do with tweezers. That makes it considerably easier to get things in alignment it also makes it much easier for those not paying attention to get things out of alignment. Then this " smart phone regulator " Thing you're talking about does it tell you if your watches in beat or not?
Normally changing a battery is really simple so if somebody sells you A watch just needing A new battery because they were too lazy to do it, that is strange? Just think you put the battery in the watch is running it increases in value dramatically so maybe they weren't telling the truth?
Then we need the model number of the movement telling us that it is a Tissot PRS516 Isn't super helpful because according to link below and it's more like a series of watches. So there should be a model number on the back side of the movement itself.
AndyHull Gave you some good starting answers. 101 make sure you have power to the watch. But there are some additional electrical checks once you verify that Then there is the mechanical aspects. Just because the watch looks clean doesn't mean by quartz watch standards that it's going to function. Mechanical watches have lots of power things aren't quite right they might not run right but they will usually run through all this things that aren't right. The quartz watches are really critical on how clean things are lubrication one speck of dust in the wrong place depending upon the watches enough to stop it almost. So their way less tolerance for mechanical Issues which you can't worry about it until you verify the electronics is working.