Hello, I've been struggling for two evenings now to fit the train bridge on this ETA 2832. Every time it looks like all pivots are aligned through the jewel holes and I begin tightening the bridge, the wheels begin locking up. On closer examination, it looks to me like the 4th wheel is not seating flush against the centre tube as shown in one of my photos. I believe this because the pinion on the 4th wheel is higher than that of the escape wheel, and equally about the same measurement out between the 4th wheel and the 3rd wheel pinion, which is lower. It also looks like the 4th wheel is fouling under the train bridge.
In your opinion, would my suspicion be correct or should the 4th wheel's pinion rest approx. 1 to 1.5mm above the flange of the centre tube. If it should be flush, do you have any tips to seating it as such? I have obviously tried carefully wriggling it under light pressure without luck. I've added an extra photo showing the placed wheels during disassembly to give some context.
Thanks in advance
Join me as I strip down, service and review this Chinese ETA 2892-A2 clone. Seagull ST1812 watch movement. There was a couple of issues to deal with but altogether a fairly impressive movement for the price.
Im working on an ETA 2783, and suspect that the canon pinion is to tight against the lower wheel.
So I have to make it a little bit more loose...
Has anybody done this befor?
And how it the best way to do this?
Working on a Tudor Oyster Prince with ref no: 2081/4 with a ETA 2784 movment.
Cleaned and inspected, all looks good, no sign of wear and tear on the main spring, no sharps bend, looks overall good. Noticed that there where some marks on the barrel wall. But that I have seen before witout any drama....
Oiled it , put togeher , goes like a dream..... but the the spring does not stick, it snaps over after 6,5 turns by crown.
So the question is:
Can I just replace the main spring?
Can I just replace the main spring and do something with the barrel walls ?
Buy a new barrel with spring? Is it to be sourced?
It shouldn't need much pressure at all to fit it.
If its not going down there must be a reason why.
Has the tube on the hand been damaged or crimped from when you removed it?
Can you fit it with the minute hand removed?
I'm a beginner. I've finally competed my Seiko 6119A in a Seiko 5. I now notice that the second hand tube is quite long. It's not sliding down the shaft with moderate pressure. How had should I push? Is there a trick to this?
I have some problem with my seiko 7015 speedtimer that i bought 2 days ago..
This seiko runs smoothly when chronograph off
And when the chronograph is active,the watch runs for awhile and then stop..
Whats wrong with it and maybe you guys can help me with some solution please!!
thank you for the detailed reply. I tried a 329 today and unfortunately did not work. As you explained before it looks like the rotor is ocillating back and forth (the second hand moves forward and backwards).
Its heartbreaking to see as i was hoping to fix it and give back to my grandfather.
is there anyway i can source the part or an alternative movement (does not have to be Omega) that will fit the dial and casing?Although not ideal as takes away from the integrity and beauty of the watch but would love to able to get it working one way or the other so my grandfather can wear it on the wrist again.
any help would be much appreciated