Jump to content

lubrication


berniethebolt

Recommended Posts

Be very careful when it comes to buying from ebay. I see that BHI oil comes from China. Most Chinese watch tools are very poor. Myself I would leave it alone.  

 

Lubrication is very important for watches, you must use the correct one’s if not you will end up with a movement giving poor performance. Buy a recommended brand from a watch material supplier.

  • Like 2
  • Thanks 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

22 hours ago, oldhippy said:

Be very careful when it comes to buying from ebay. I see that BHI oil comes from China.

A lot of poor quality power tools made in China are marketed by US sellers with very US sounding names, cities often.  i.e. Pittsburgh or Chicago.  imo its an unsavory practice.  I mean, essentially you are trying to trick people.

is this whats going on here?

there is a UK listing for British Horological Lubricants that uses the acronym BHL that is fulfilled out of London

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/BHL-WATCH-OIL-SET-OF-3-FOR-ANTIQUE-MECHANICAL-WATCHES-/250824334708

Then there is a US listing for BHL fulfilled out of China, that does not (that I can see) use any reference to Britain, and certainly the packaging etc does not hide the China origins.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/BHL-WATCH-OIL-CLASSIC-FOR-ANTIQUE-MECHANICAL-WATCHES/323429074210?hash=item4b4de00522:rk:1:pf:0

Is first guy repacking and 'putting on airs'?  Two different products?   Who knows.  Personally I'd just go with the known quality stuff, Moebius, so as to not get 'tricked'

Edited by measuretwice
  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

1 hour ago, measuretwice said:

A lot of poor quality power tools made in China are marketed by US sellers with very US sounding names, cities often.  i.e. Pittsburgh or Chicago.  imo its an unsavory practice.  I mean, essentially you are trying to trick people.

is this whats going on here?

there is a UK listing for British Horological Lubricants that uses the acronym BHL that is fulfilled out of London

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/BHL-WATCH-OIL-SET-OF-3-FOR-ANTIQUE-MECHANICAL-WATCHES-/250824334708

Then there is a US listing for BHL fulfilled out of China, that does not (that I can see) use any reference to Britain, and certainly the packaging etc does not hide the China origins.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/BHL-WATCH-OIL-CLASSIC-FOR-ANTIQUE-MECHANICAL-WATCHES/323429074210?hash=item4b4de00522:rk:1:pf:0

Is first guy repacking and 'putting on airs'?  Two different products?   Who knows.  Personally I'd just go with the known quality stuff, Moebius, so as to not get 'tricked'

i agree with you all.sounds dodgy! must put Moebius on my Santa list.thanks all.merry xmas.B.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

As Watchtime says ' It will last your years' which is true but I recently purchased some Meobius oils from Cousins which had an expiry date of nine months. Now no way am I going to use it up in that time. What actually happens to it after the expiry date?  Does it change its lubrication qualities? I see some companies selling genuine Moebius as 'reconditioned' Anybody tried that? I dont think I would use Chinese oils but some of the Chinese tools after a little 'fettling' are quite serviceable. I think I've adopted this attitude after someone in the know told me that one or two famous Swiss watch tool manufacturers can only survive with a massive markup and actually outsourse work to China. No different to the UK getting Toshiba to build our reactors for the nuclear industry I suppose. 

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

16 hours ago, chrisdt said:

As Watchtime says ' It will last your years' which is true but I recently purchased some Meobius oils from Cousins which had an expiry date of nine months. Now no way am I going to use it up in that time. What actually happens to it after the expiry date?  Does it change its lubrication qualities? I see some companies selling genuine Moebius as 'reconditioned' Anybody tried that? I dont think I would use Chinese oils but some of the Chinese tools after a little 'fettling' are quite serviceable. I think I've adopted this attitude after someone in the know told me that one or two famous Swiss watch tool manufacturers can only survive with a massive markup and actually outsourse work to China. No different to the UK getting Toshiba to build our reactors for the nuclear industry I suppose. 

   if  the container is sealed,  should last for a life time.    when in the watch,  exposed to air.  it may gel (set) depending on the oil"formula".  OR  set up by dirt in the oil.   whale oil was used originally because it did not set up.  vin

Link to comment
Share on other sites

18 hours ago, chrisdt said:

Everything has to be tried and tested sometime otherwise we would all still be on horses

Thinking of the quote I have above I don't suppose someone wants to purchase the BHL uk ver oil? I was tempted but between the cost of the oil and added in shipping to the states its way too expensive.

Personally I'm really curious as to the lubrication properties and how well it works? For instance another popular oil is anchor oil equally unknown specifications but with the desirable hobbyists characteristic of it's really cheap. So because shipping was free and oil was relatively cheap I have a bottle. it's an interesting lubrication in that it's the thinnest watch oil I've ever seen. I found the physical characteristics interesting because any time anyone complained about this oil it was always that it  basically was a nice glue with time. my experience was different than what I was expecting in that the oil just disappeared. I'm guessing because the oil was so fluid it just spread and is no longer lubricating.

at least dates on the bottles give you a clue of how old the lubrication is. Previously when you purchased your oils you had zero idea whether it had been sitting somewhere for the last 20 years or whether was a fresh bottle. Now you have a clue and unfortunately the concern of what happens when it expires and the world comes to an end. Because even the expiring date is misleading in that if you service a watch at the end of the expiring date what does that mean? so I think the expiry dates or more of a guideline.

http://www.moebius-lubricants.ch/en

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.



  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • I did that also for a few movements - well, mainly in/around the train jewels. I made big efforts to epilame the mainplate WITHOUT getting Epilame into the Pallet fork jewels (where it's not supposed to be, right?). I made litte barriers with Rodico around that jewel and used drops from a syringe to apply on the rest.  However, I've now stopped doing this. For three reasons: 1. It's a hassle and consumes more of this liquid gold. 2. I didn't see the need when using HP1000/HP1300 lubricants and grease for most part. The two places where I'd use 9010 (i.e. escape wheel and balance) receive Epilame in specific places... or the cap-jewel-setting of the balance suspends the oil sufficiently be capillary action (see my "conflict" about using Epilame on the balance jewels).  3. Lastly, and here I really wonder about yours and others' experiences: I felt that applying Epliame to the train jewels left them looking hazy (borderline dirty) compared to the (painstakingly achieved) sparkly clean results of my cleaning process. I just can't help but think that the Epilame residuals would mix with the oil and cause more friction/wear. I don't know.    simple: it'll stay there. It won't move any further. That's exactly what is happening if you epilame a cap stone. You end up placing the 9010 right on top of the epilame and the oil will sit nicely on that spot.
    • There are some parts on Ebay for the seiko 6020A, it may just be a waiting game for someone to strip one down, NOS will be more scarce . K would strip your movement down to the module then start looking at other seiko movement to see if that coil is used, then seek out a seiko part dealer. Also Retrowatches youtube owner Mike may give you some advice try him on his site . He also hangs around amateur watchmaking groups.
    • I would agree, in order to work harden something you need to exceed it's yield strength when it moves from the elastic zone to the plastic zone and you get permanent deformation and work hardening which is fairly close to its failure point, relatively speaking and dependent on the material/alloy of course. In theory you can load something constantly within its elastic range and not suffer work hardening issues.
    • Probably easier to get a complete new movement - but CousinsUK list it as discontinued. Maybe someone on here knows a substitute movement ?
    • Any other thoughts on how I can get a replacement coil? Any “hidden” or unknown physical shops (in Australia or elsewhere) that might have them in stock (but not always online)?
×
×
  • Create New...