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I started on pocket watches as they are easier to work on than wristwatches. Many had gold cases, which is why there are so many movements for sale. I was always on the look out for cases, for as Nickelsilver says, a 16s movement will fit any 16s case* (with tweaks to the stem). I also started hand winding mainsprings, before I had winders. It can be done without damage, but it's quite hard on the fingers. But you can make homemade winders, see here * some movements, eg "railroad grade", have a setting lever on the edge of the dial at about the 1 -2 o'clock, so need a special case. -
By transporter · Posted
Ok, on your movement plate you can see a star wheel on the right, this is the silencer, if you rotate the hands by hand through each hour you will see that eventually it acts upon the cam which moves the lever and in turn lifts the lifting lever thus stopping the chimes and strike working. What you need to do is get your clock to 11pm and also turn the star until the cam lifts the lever and stops the action. The star wheel has a small spring that gives it a positive action between each movement, so once at 11pm you can rotate the star wheel around by hand until it stops the action at 11pm. Hope this makes sense to you. -
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Possibly just me but I'm having a hard time following along. The same guys also state: "Once parts have been epilamed, the oil droplet remains anchored to the spot" and this is exactly what we're looking for. If epilame was working like a wax-like repellant the droplet wouldn't remain anchored. -
Sounds like even the manufacturers can't agree, what chance do we have?
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