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Purchased that same one. Tried it out adjusting the pallet fork pivot jewels (both mainplate and cock) of a Seiko 1104A. Back and forth. Removed the pallet cock jewel entirely and put it back. Worked perfectly. This Chinese clone is a boon for the hobbyist.

My latest restoration/repairs. A really nice 1959 Sea King cal 11AFC and an equally fine 1962 Model 23 cal 10BZAC. While I love the looks of the old Sea King, the 11AFC movement is not my favorite to work on re: fixed pallet stud and a very delicate click/click spring configuration that really doesn't make any sense at all. On the other hand the Model 23 10BZAC is the a great Bulova workhorse movement from the past IMHO. Such a straightforward, robust design with good parts availability for vintage.

I'm pretty stoked! I finally gathered all the parts I needed to case up an import ST36 movement I purchased for purposes of learning how to service. Here's a quick photo of what I've got: (protective plastic still attached to crystals) For whatever reason, I really like the 9:00 small seconds location. I just had elbow surgery so I had to mostly put this together with one hand and one baseball bat stub. But I was still able to cobble it together. It is of course not a finished product and I haven't serviced it yet either (I suspect it's about bone dry for one thing). So I call this phase one I guess. I kinda like how it looks for a $75 watch. Purchased crown isn't shown but the stem needs clipped anyway so no sense messing with that yet. I don't think I'm gonna try servicing this thing until I add a second arm back into my life. But the one-handed thing was an interesting and honestly a relaxing procedure for practicing patience and caution, which doesn't hurt at my skill level. So first big toe in the water of touching an actual watch. Am I on a decent track here?

USB is a digital protocol, and the audio sampled by the sound card is chunked into packets suitable for USB transfer. The speed at which the transfers happens should be irrelevant to actual playback on the host system, because the sound card tells the host its sample rate (among other things) before enumeration. This Silabs application note outlines how the USB audio class works. As long as the USB connection is fast enough for audio, everything should be fine. I would expect that the software on your PC uses information about the sample rate to infer timing information from the audio stream, not the "USB packet time of arrival" if we can call it that. In other words, the accuracy of your timing setup is entirely dependent upon the poor 12 MHz crystal in the frontend. I had a quick look at Farnell and 10 ppm seems to be the highest frequency tolerance (at 25°C) you can reasonably get. Using one of those, you'd be 0.86 s/d off in the worst case (10e-6*86400=0.864). You can of course get better oscillators with internal temperature compensation and all the bells and whistles, but I wouldn't expect those to be found in Chinese clones like these. It would be interesting to learn which oscillator they use in these.

I'd never purchased anything from Ali Express before. I decided to give it a try and I purchased one of their Horia tool clones. Well I must say I knew what I was buying when I did it, but I am quite surprised with what I received. This thing has some weight to it. The threads feel smooth. I even took a micrometer and measured some of the pushers and anvils and everything was pretty much where it needed to be, +/- .001 or so. I used the tool tonight to remove the upper mainspring barrel arbor bushing in a Seiko 6138 and replaced it with a jewel. It worked like a charm.

Invicta's website, apparently... https://www.invictawatch.com/watches/detail/35299-akula-men Inspiration for the steam punk plumber's special?

You would have received yet better advice, had we at first seen how beautiful your watch us. I am in love. Wear it in good health.

I’ve been using Buyee a lot the last year or so. Only once was there a case of a won item not arriving at their warehouse. They asked to wait 30 days, after which they refunded me that item. I assume they take it up with Yahoo Japan to claim their loss back. So not only is it convenient but it put my mind at ease that if something goes wrong they’ll make good on their end.

After I finish a pocket watch, I run it on the bench for an extended period of time. So, I designed a stand for this purpose.

Such a simple idea that, for whatever bonehead reason, I never thought of. Nice!

I've also used Buyee for bidding on Yahoo Japan auctions. I usually bought several items and then consolidated shipping, otherwise is can get pricey. It's been several years since I've used Buyee, so charges may have changed. Cheers!

Tenso Inc aka Buyee. I’ve used them for Yahoo Japan auction and Mercari merchant. Paid via Paypal. They shipped via DHL. Customer service was responsive to enquiries. No problems using their service.

Gott in Himmel! You could make hamburger patties with that! Okay, I admit: I like that shade of blue...but that's as much admiration as I have for it. One imagines this could be something a pimp from Las Vegas would wear. On a related note: where is Invicta headed these days? What's with all the gaudy and garish stuff that makes my eyes bleed? Is this what younger folks are buying now? Am I just old and stodgy, with an obsolete definition of good taste? I'm sure they function fine as watches go, but I couldn't pull off wearing one - any more than I could act in a Quentin Tarantino movie.

If you're in a modern shop with modern watchmakers like the ones I used to work with they won't even touch a watch without a brand-new mainspring in their hand. When I'm servicing pocket watches if it's a blued spring it always gets replaced because they are set. They will let you do pre-timing and adjust things but they're not going to run well over 24 hours. But on the other hand if it's a modern white spring and it still has some back curve to it then yes all use those again. If you doing watches at home for yourself and having fun unless you want to carry the watch every day I just wouldn't worry about it as the cost of mainsprings can add up fast. Then thinking about changing the mainspring is even Omega has a working instruction on recycling mainspring barrels. Where they open up the barrel when they checked the spraying and make sure it's smooth and no kinks then they clean up the barrel but make sure there's nothing it's Warner not perfect clean the whole thing up free lubricate and put the old mainspring back in. Which is quite amusing because in their service center they change I think they change the entire barrel because there a service center and they haven't infinite supply of those

I would gift them to the first person who accepts them. lol

No, absolutely not SINAD. I doubt that makes a lot of difference for a timegrapher unless it's absurdly bad. I'm just considering issues that directly relate to timing. I know these will cause real errors because I've written timegrapher software. Take a look at this NXP app note, https://www.nxp.com/docs/en/application-note/AN13364.pdf §2.7 Table 5. The way the chip maintains synchronization between the audio clock and USB is to switch the audio sample rate between approx -700 s/d, 0 s/d, and +700 s/d. Now in my opinion, the chip in that app note is being (ab)used to do something it wasn't really designed for and is very bad at it. One would hope a purpose designed chip like the CM108 isn't that bad! But if it were, you would see errors in the timegrapher of ±700 s/d. That isn't nitpicking signal quality, that's totally useless. That's not quite how it usually works. Due to the design of the isochronous transfers, the USB device might need to send data at *exactly* the rate the host will control via the USB clock. In that app note, look at §4.1.12, the endpoint is defined as asynchronous mode, which lets the audio clock be independent (asynchronous to) the USB clock. They further mention synchronous and adaptive mode. The CM108 mentioned previously doesn't use asynchronous mode, rather it uses adaptive mode, "where the stream’s clock source varies according to the buffer requirements of the stream." That variation is a big problem for using the stream's clock as the source of the timing information (which is how timegrapher software works). Quite right, if we used asynchronous mode. However, we can use USB packet arrival time to calibrate that poor 12 MHz crystal, if the PC can timestamp the packet arrival with something accurate, like its own clock that has been adjusted via a GPS or with NTP to better than the crystal's 10 ppm. But that calibration only works for long term errors in the crystal's frequency, i.e. this crystal is always 7 ppm slow. It doesn't work for a short term change in frequency due to the crystal's changing temperature. And the very short term, and possibly very large, changes in frequency due to USB adaptive mode? It absolutely does not work for that. Not exactly. The CM108, especially one with a poor crystal or an internal RC oscillator, might be out. But if I were designing a really good, but still a reasonable product, timegrapher microphone, I'd use USB. The problem with analog is you are dependent on the PC/labtop/etc having good audio. Some are perfectly ok, but some aren't. By using USB, you remove the PC's audio from the equation and can be sure it's done right by doing it yourself. But you have to do it right. So I'd use asynchronous mode and not adaptive mode. Such USB audio hardware certainly exists. I'd also be tempted to try Bluetooth. Yes, batteries, a pain. But no cables and then have a tablet with the timegrapher display, also no cables, wouldn't that be nice? You could design the microphone to work as completely functional movement holder.

Well I had patience while I was literally single-handedly casing that movement and it was nothing but pleasure. But today I'm really feeling that life sucks because I want to fiddle with it further but can't because there's a 10lb ham attached to one shoulder. I'd watch videos instead to tide me over, but I think I've seen them all. I guess I don't have patience after all. Waaah!

While I use tweezers and a broken oiler to rotate the spring into final position, I found that the notched pegwood works consistently in inserting at least one tab and in keeping the spring under control until I get both tabs in. Real frustration easer.

Yeppers, that's how I do it, but I don't usually use two tweezers. Usually one tweezers, and then sometimes sharpened pegwood, or a needle in a pin vice.

AliX has this little USB microscope for 12 USD. While I have a (Chinese) stereo microscope, certain tasks like positioning a pump pusher over a jewel require bringing out the loupe. This USB microscope caught my attention as a possible loupe replacement. Here are photos taken of a pallet fork bridge jewel with pivot and the balance roller jewel of an 1104 movement. Quite a decent inspection and aligning tool for 12 US dollars.

It is back together with a new MS and a replacement screw which I made. Amplitude went way up but it is still running slow. Beat error virtually zero. I will let it run awhile and see what happens. I made some adjustment of the timing screws and got it running faster. Will continue to look for issues that I may have missed.

The regulator arm can be moved just by pushing it. Then, when it's close (when the rate is close) you can fine tune its position by turning the screw on top of the balance cock that engages it. But it can be moved independently of that screw.

The regulator looks like it might be slightly touching the 4th wheel, I would check that. Hairspring looks deformed but difficult to say more than that from the photos. That could be the entire problem.

I don't know if you are aware of this, so just in case. In these kind of movements to unwind the MS down you first need to uninstall the second reduction wheel, it won't unwind with it installed.

Hope this is legible. I didn't want to spend a lot of time on it haha.

Beautiful jewel on your wrist. Welcome to the forum.

Welcome from Richmond VA (originally from Alexandria VA). This is a great forum (I joined last year), the best I've encountered for getting help as a repair/restoration hobbyist. Have also taken Mark's online classes, which I found invaluable after trying to start out by slugging through a couple 1940s vintage horology textbooks.

https://www.walmart.com/ip/Invicta-Gladiator-Chronograph-Quartz-Blue-Dial-Men-s-Watch-36623/203162528 I did a google image search for the Invicta Bolt something, and this came up as collateral damage. 55mm case, the gold chain motif on the band only goes halfway, quartz, classic Chinesium "chronograph" (lost in translation equates to meaningless subdials), $480, AND sold out! The crown looks HUGE for any watch, and when you take into account that it's 55mm... It's like fat crayons for toddlers...

Some more testing and progress. I've typically aligned the top of the basket with the top of the heating chamber and ran it for about 5 minutes or less. Never had any issues running the ABS plastic that way. I tried pushing it deep into the heating chamber. This time it melted pretty good. I took some more measurements, and it looks like it can get to 100C in there. So conclusions: 1) If using ABS don't put it deep into the chamber. It's plenty warm enough to evaporate any IPA even if it's not all the way in. 2) Ideal is to print with even higher temp materials. That's what the photo is. The black basket on the right is printed from Nylon w/carbon fiber. Should be able to withstand 160c. Also made the basket a bit shorter since I'm using 1/2 baskets now. Happy new year!

Just tested this in boiling water and it survived fine. You wash these off in IPA so it will take that at least. I'll test in some more chemicals in the next coming days. This was just a generic test of a mesh basket in a resin printer, i.e. it's not made to fit anything or even function in a cleaner or anything. Just testing so far. If I find out something works, I could draw up some baskets if I had the needed dimensions to fit the Janta/Pearl machine if anybody wants some. @muddtt I got to thinking about your small baskets and the holder you made for it. Seems like that ought to work very well, and maybe better than the full baskets for safely segregating and washing your parts once you get used to it. Then again I've never used a watch cleaning machine even once so my assessment means absotively nothing.

I had wondered where you would purchase it from. Then I really like hearing these stories because that always opens up possibilities of me finding something like this on eBay. Okay looks like it's about 11 1/2 size let's see if bestfit has anything. Then no you didn't really think it was going to be this easy did you?. As you can see from the image and though I didn't specifically ask for it you need to deal the clearly see all three parts but I snipped out both sections of the book you can see the ones that I've indicated are probably similar. You'll notice there's a star on each of the images some don't have the start the fine print says these watches all have the same setting components but nothing else may possibly interchange perhaps. So it basically narrows us down to a category of Seiko watches that parts may or may not interchange. Well it is confirming what I suspected it's part of a family. More jewels not as expensive as the other one but notice the similarities. It looks like may be the caliber is the name on the dial so perhaps it's a Seikosha Cronos. Which unfortunately still brings up a similar problem of no tech sheets because they probably didn't do tech sheets back then and if they did its can be all in Japanese perhaps and possibly no parts at all because they probably don't have any parts plus of course it's older and anything that gets to be older has parts problems anyway. https://www.ebay.com/itm/125394095183 Once we know what the look for it is one it's 23 jewels https://www.ebay.com/itm/314062957926 Looks like it probably is a Seikosha Cronos Because of you do a search on eBay and notice how it appears to be a seller in Japan the movements are all basically identical except of course the jewel account and at the lower end one like yours a different spring for the balance jewel assembly. But I'm assuming that all the parts probably interchange in that particular family. It looks like as I said they're all part of the family they start adding extra names on number of jewels go up price goes up etc. and it looks like the parts interchange if we could find them perhaps you can see how closely this one matches yours https://adventuresinamateurwatchfettling.com/2018/02/25/a-wabi-sabi-seiko-cronos-sea-horse-from-1961/ Then on the website above he mentions the mainspring of listing and I'm assuming he means this page notice basically almost no parts available http://cgi.julesborel.com/cgi-bin/matcgi2?ref=SEK_CRONOS By the way did you do a search on this message board? I usually get frustrated with the search but sometimes I rewarded with things like this that I find by searching the Internet. Notice the similarity to your watch? https://www.watchrepairtalk.com/topic/6521-handwind-seiko-cronos-cal54/ If you're lucky Seiko wasn't super creative my understanding is the Japanese like to make things in quantity they don't necessarily like to make things in small quantities. So maybe would find a lot of parts interchangeability's but that doesn't necessarily help. Now why am I saying that because there is a link to the parts site again notice the balance wheel interchanges with the previous balance wheels that's a good sign but do you see the pallet fork bridge listed anywhere? See a lot of parts listed which may or may not be available but a lot of times the bridges are not necessarily available http://cgi.julesborel.com/cgi-bin/matcgi2?ref=SEK_54A Oh did find a reference to a museum if you scroll down far enough you'll see at least the name of your watch unfortunately no movement pictures which isn't the best but it gives a clue of when your watch came from and where https://www.thenakedwatchmaker.com/museum-seiko-tokyo I'm attaching a PDF notice the setting parts do not match your watch. But I want you to look at the pallet fork bridge carefully and see if it looks at all the similar. This was a suggestion on a different group because basically technical anything for your watch is impossible and someone suggested may be something from this watch might work. It's basically back to my thoughts that may be Seiko doesn't get super creative and uses parts over multiple generations of four lucky or in your case if you're lucky otherwise we're going to have to replace the jewel that got damaged. Then I did find out what this number is it's your serial number. A lot of people posted on groups like the model number but it's not it's the serial number. Then apparently The watch is a simply referred to by Seiko as the "Cronos" caliber, without a number. It came in 3 jewel counts (17, 21, and 23). But on the group I'm currently looking at it looks like parts to interchange with other watches. Conceivably worst-case we might have to if we can find another part just steal the pallet fork bridge jewel if the bridges do not fit. So this should give you enough reading for a little while give you a starting place. 55 Lord Marvel.pdf

Hi have a look on ebay there are usually plenty of the seiko 5s from India (so called serviced) which are a source of parts if nothing else.

There is a fairly new YT channel currently called "Its about time" (previously called It's about f*****g time). The poster of the videos is named Alex Hamilton, and is a watchmaker in North Carolina. He has quite a few videos directed mostly to the new watchmaker and hobbyist. Some of them are very insightful. His current video goes into great detail on how to source parts. Parts for every era of movement. I wanted to share this with the community in case folks like me have a hard time looking for parts. Several of the web pages he highlights were known to me, but there were several that I was unaware of. I am still in the early stages of learning this awesome trade/hobby. I have been known from time to time to lose parts.... lots of parts. I then spend days looking for those parts and it does get tedious... I know... Stop losing those parts. Im working on it LOL! Here is the link to the video and I hope others find it as useful as I did. Good Luck "IT'S ABOUT TIME"