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About half the collection:

Something a little more out of the ordinary today. A "Kered" branded Duromat (Laco) Durowe 580 - 25 jewel automatic from around the mid 1950s. I assumed from the Foreign designation at the base of the dial that there was a chance of it being German. The watch is very solid, and has obviously been well worn, as the case is starting to thin around the edges of the caseback. The gold 20 micron gold plating is also thinning a bit especially on the lugs. Notice the odd arrangement on the balance cock... ?! It seems to run fine. I have it running again, all be it very slightly fast, so I'm going to wear it for a while then take a look at it once it has settled down. On the other wrist, keeping it company and setting the pace, I still have the 19 jewel Roman faced USSR Sekonda which is putting in a pretty impressive performance around +/- 3 sec per day.

Ordered both, SARB033 & 035 NIB's, before leaving home last week for work. They have since arrived & now awaiting my return tomorrow night. Plan on putting them both on leather straps, hope I like them!

Hi they are bent , there is a definite cast to the right, a loose platform will put the contrate wheel under strain due to incorrect meshing, Running on the wheel tips causing the slight bend.

However, with pendant tubes that are silver-soldered in place, I've broached them out before as you cant press or punch them out.

lHi A classic looking piece Movement I think is a Fontainmelon cal cant see properly but looks like ?x303 Is this correct. To clean the dial a cotton bud moistened with water and carefully applied in a circular motion then dry with a lint free cloth ( a spectacle cloth) nothing else. The rodico will also fift surface dirt. As far as the crystal goes follow transporters advise. For the strap brown leather to tone with the case and retain the classic look can you post the correct calibre number please its under the balance rim along with the makers mark. cheers

Crystal is the correct name for the watch glass, so you can have a plastic crystal or even a Saphire crystal.

Well done on getting as far as you have, your positional errors may be down to worn jewels, pocket watches are by their very nature and design run in pendant up more than any other position. So other positions may have pivots running on jewels that are slightly out of round .

I used this search on ebay. "1mm 316 stainless steel bearing" I was wrong, You can get 1000 for less than $10. I got robbed on Amazon.

I have used shellac dissolved in alcohol as a wood finish for years. There is no doubt in my mind that shellac dissolves in alcohol, both in methylated spirits and isopropanol. However it takes time, so the effect is not instant. I suspect that the shellac holding in a fork jewel will probably last several minutes in a bath of alcohol, however I would personally not recommend it as the results could not be predicted. Your mileage may vary. Try it at your own risk. If shellac has been replaced with some more modern alternative at some stage historically, then perhaps modern watches are less prone to issues, but anything produced before around the 1940s will almost certainly have shellac holding in the jewels.

Wooooahhhh, don’t touch the hairspring yet. remove the balance complete, turn it over, does the spring lay flat when off the watch, are all the coils equally spaced apart? Have you cleaned it in essence of Renata or similar, I’ve just had the same thing almost on a Seiko 11A and the hair spring had somehow got the tiniest bit of lube on it somehow and had gummed up a few coils causing it twist up like yours. I also demagnetised the balance complete aswell. So first off mate take the balance complete out the movement and see if the hair spring lays flat. That’s your start point ok

Thanks everyone for responses and help, Nucejoe thanks for the lesson/education I just assumed same part number (wheel and spring) interchangeable. I went back and found original spring and what an improvement!!!! Still have some positional errors going to look into but feel I am much closer to getting this piece working, again thanks and sure I will be asking for help again soon. Everyone stay safe!

We had this discussion so many times, including with the pinned topic above. IPA will certainly loosen natural shellac, but manufacturers may now be using something different that is resistant to it.

Even it runs well, not knowing its service history or a least looking on a timegrapher or equivalent application will expose you to the risk that is running on dried oils, that will increase a lot the wear of pivots and stones and may cause expensive repairs at a later time, so if you intend to have it running and preserve its value the best would be to bring it to reputable watchmaker for a full service. I think it's simply the old base or paint decaying and flaking off. You should check if it is at least stable because having debris around wouldn't be good at all.

My advice, for what it's worth, is to practice, practice, practice on hairsprings which you do not mind destroying completely. If you've never done this before, the difference between knowing what to do and actually being able to do it is enormous. The chances are you will make it much worse (out-of-round as well as out-of-flat) by doing the wrong thing in the wrong place. It looks like the hairspring is touching the underside of the cock, opposite the stud. Is that right? If so, what Nucejoe is suggesting might work, but you will need a very good pair of tweezers with very fine tips (Bergeon 5) and a steady hand. Make a series of small adjustments and check your progress.

If you think lighter guild is cheap, try to compare its price per liter or gallon to automotive fuel, to which in the end is quite similar. However to each one his own thinking. Some even like to use the expensive “one dip“ solution, which is not much different from hexane, available at the pharmacy. Also I suppose your phone repair has never heard of Isopropyl Alcohol, which is pretty much the universal cleaner for electronic work. But as mentioned about a million times here it is not 100 safe for shellac.

Further thoughts on lighter fluid. The stuff is so cheap that I don't think the manufacturers are putting any extra stuff in it. But you can conduct an easy test to see if the stuff you have is pure. Just put a drop of it on a clean piece of glass and let it evaporate. If it leaves any marks on the glass, it probably has other stuff in it. I use Ronsonol and Zippo. The cell phone repair shops here use it as the final clean before sticking on a screen protector. So I think it should be quite pure.

there should be no sheilac on the spring.,but why not clean with isopropyl alcohol ,, it's cheaper and better? vin

A Citizen 0200 based piece from 1967. Similar in size to a Timex Mercury, but fully jewelled. The dial is marked with "Water Protected" and "Japan" below the 6 O'clock position, and the case serial number starts with 707, so since it is an 0200 based watch, this gives a date of manufacture of July '67. This was in a pretty bad shape. The barrel bridge was damaged, and the screw from the barrel had been swapped with the one from the winder gear, as a result, the longer screw was sticking out of the bottom of the barrel plate, and was fouling the clutch, causing someone to break the clutch spring. It was also missing its balance cock jewels and shock spring. The slightly Frankenstein finished watch. On the plus side, it is a Citizen 0200 and I have pretty much every spare you could possible need for these in the form of some donor HMT 200 movements, so I set about harvesting the necessary parts, and transplanted them into this little fellow. It now runs fine. Was it worth it? From a financial perspective, not at all. The watch appears to be relatively rare, but not particularly valuable. From a learning perspective though, it certainly was. I now know that all of the major parts of the HMT and Citizen movements are completely interchangeable, including things like the balance jewels, clutch, barrel, barrel bridge, screws, springs and so forth.

Yes. 7009 is the predecessor to 7S / 4R / 6R and it exchanges mechanically.

Try this link -> https://drive.google.com/open?id=1XbRtG03Bx-nqcfHBpHDVcTQcoN94HefM Let me know if you have any problems downloading, or if I have managed to screw up the zip file again.