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  1. Touching a lubrication thread is like touching a wire to see if it is hot. Not smart but sometimes curiosity gets you. I have yet to see a lube thread that didn't get people fired up. I just relayed what the documentation from Seiko says. I noticed that the brushing part was different than any method I have seen before. I'm going to run and hide now because a fuse has been lit...
  2. I recently got some Seiko S-2 mainspring grease. In the box was an instruction sheet. Basically says to use a brush to apply a very thin coat on the barrel wall, bottom and lid. Using a brush is different than the procedure I commonly see. The S-2 grease sure looks a lot like the Kluber grease. I'm not a trained watchmaker and I don't know if a Seiko procedure doesn't translate well from Japanese. S-2 is specified for the 6309 and the Orient is closer to a 7 series Seiko. Maybe try this?
  3. Maybe it needs a few cycles to distribute the grease and let it even out? You tried everything else.
  4. I get the serial number. First purchase when I turned 21. Very cool.
  5. Correct. Now I remember more of the thread. The light coat was to prevent rust or corrosion which some where concerned with. One group was strict "no oil" another group pointed out various reasons why it needed oil. Corrosion protection was a valid concern. A light coat, not drop, addressed that concern. Seemed reasonable to me, so I do that to Seiko that call for oil.
  6. A few years ago, I read a thread similar to this one. Two professional watchmakers going back and forth. A few hobbyists asking why. When lubrication of the pivots was called for, the conclusion was to put a drop of 9010 on pithwood and plunge the pivots in the drop. That seemed to satisfy all parties and everyone went away happy. Well, as happy as can be achieved with regards to a lubricant thread.
  7. 1mm is the spec often mentioned on Seiko forums. That is the size I use. I'm just a hobbyist Before you get too far, make sure the ball isn't buried in the hole. They get rusted into place. You should be able to probe the hole at least a few mm. The spring may be similarly caked in with crud and rust. Finally, the ball will no longer be captured by the crimp. Have fun getting it to stay. Another reason you buy them by the 100s not singles. A spring bar spring is not nearly strong enough but it will work. The Seiko replacement spring is a lot thicker and stronger than you expect to see.
  8. I used this search on ebay. "1mm 316 stainless steel bearing" I was wrong, You can get 1000 for less than $10. I got robbed on Amazon.
  9. A ball supplied by Seiko is several $$. You could buy a bag of 100 1mm stainless steel bearings from Amazon or eBay for the same amount. Given how easily they launch, do you want just one? Ball point pen balls are tungsten and rough to hold ink. They work for awhile until they cut groove in the rotating ring.
  10. Seven full turns on the barrel come to mind on the 6309. I can't cite the reference right now, but that is the number in my head. 40 hour power reserve test is the final check.
  11. What was the main ingredient in the hand sanitizer? Some are ethanol some are isopropyl. It might be other ingredients that help lift away the goo.
  12. I gave my 16 year old nephew an SNK809. 6 month later, he gave it back saying it would not wind any more. The rotor was loose. I don't know what he did to this poor watch in such a short time. I tightened the rotor screw and sent him on his way. No problems since. There is a proper orientation for the rotor. Read the 7S26 technical guide for easy to understand pictures.
  13. JDM, I was thinking that exact thing about this ETA movement but failed to convey it. These are very rebuildable and based on the existence of a technical guide, they are expected to be serviced. Quartz doesn't excite me like automatics. Early on, my exposure to quartz was cheap throw away movements. I discovered older Seiko quartz and they are loaded with interesting stuff that makes them worth maintaining. My comments about watch makers was based on what I experienced locally. This is likely the situation most face if they stay local. I know there are watchmakers that willingly work on everything. Finding them is the hard part. I like this site because there is help available for anything that keeps time. No judgment zone.
  14. When it comes to quartz, usually the answer is replace. Not worth servicing. Most watch makers don't want to waste their time on a $3-10 module. It is quicker and easier to just replace. Here, we have a movement with no replacement available. Your watch has some sentimental value. And it is an expensive watch to begin with. What to do? I have a cheap thrift shop watch that has an ETA 255 movement in it. It ticks but consumes a battery in 2 days. I have not started a service on it yet but will. There is a technical guide available for it so it must have been designed for servicing. I have revived several Seiko quartz watches of that vintage with great success. They either did not tick at all or the second hand would just quiver. The oils thickened over time and just stopped all motion. Last summer, I serviced a flooded Miyota movement in my daughter's dive watch. A replacement movement would have been $3. I felt bad because I didn't check the back gasket and it was my fault it flooded. In 2 hours, I had it back together and working. It is possible to fix even the cheapest of quartz movements if they are designed to be taken apart. Is there damage to the movement from a battery leak? Do the coils have any visible damage? If no, search for a watch maker willing to service it. Searching for a watch maker can be frustrating. It is my experience that they quote high prices for stuff they don't like to work on. This is the situation that drove me to work on my own watches. If the customer wants to pay, great for him. Keep searching, a watch maker will pop up that is willing and able to fix your watch for a reasonable price.
  15. To further complicate things, the watch case posted does not correspond to most google pictures of a 6309-8840. It has a 3 o'clock crown and google pictures are mostly 4 o'clock crowns. There really is no way to know what case that really is. That case number shows up on several other case shapes and sizes. Mostly on one case shape with several dial colors. Seiko does not use the same number for different shapes. The case backs size is very consistent though. My guess is the watch came from an Indian seller on eBay. At a minimum, the case back has been swapped.
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