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bklake

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  1. It has been said that the earliest ones had a threaded stem. Finding the date of manufacture on a Seiko is easy. First number is the year, second number is month. The problem with the SKX is production spanned 90s, 00s, and 10s. You can narrow down the 90s if it has a 7S26A. The 7s26B didn't last long, probably 00s and most have the 7S26C. If your movement was a 7S26A then it is should be an early SKX. If it had a 7S26B or C, things get a little murky. There have been knock offs and fakes that would not have used standard Seiko parts. Threaded aftermarket crowns have been availab
  2. I bought some 2N3909 transistors awhile ago. Which one is better, the 2N3904 or the BC549b? I tried to read the spec sheets and was lost 3 words into it. The wire up the same way.
  3. Thanks for bailing me out. I had to go do real work for awhile so couldn't look. The diagram I used showed a 1M ohm resistor (Watchuseek link?) and had a wiring diagram for a TRRS plug. Apple swaps the Mic and Ground. The transistor is a BC549b not BC5498. The B looks like an 8 in the grainy pdf. I am an electronics caveman so if I can do it everybody should be able to.
  4. I can't find it now but on one of the forums, somebody posted a very simple set up. One transistor, one resistor, a plug and a piezo disc. This person got it all to fit in the plug end. I know nothing about electronics and I built one. Two actually. I had to wire in headphones to make the Mac work. I read somewhere that a Mac won't turn on the mic unless headphones were plugged in too. Works on my Win10 machine with just the mic wired up. I bought a 10 pack of transistors, a pack of 1M ohm restistors, piezo discs, and TRRS plugs with a pigtail. With the headphone, I could hear a v
  5. Most but not all SKX crowns an stems are a one piece unit. I think it was the very first ones that had a 2 piece crown and stem. If it has visible threads it can be removed. If the shaft is smooth all the way to the crown it is a one piece unit. In the early days of modding these with NH36/4R36 movements, the stem and crown was a big stumbling block. The OEM parts solution was to use a SARB059 crown-stem. Seiko stopped selling them several years ago. The after market has stepped up and you can get a triple gasket crown with a stem that will work in both the 7S26 and 4R36. Not ver
  6. I remember reading somewhere that the machine marks serve a purpose. They catch and hold the various crud that is generated as the watch ages. The Swiss stylized the swirls of course. The real watchmakers will be along shortly to agree of crush this.
  7. I think what you see in that google picture is a movement holder for working on the movement. A caliber specific movement holder and very nice. It is easy to find Seiko part numbers in the Jules Borel database. http://cgi.julesborel.com/ type in CS#6349-xxxx replace the x's with the number on you case back. The problem is, the Mumbai specials don't always have the correct case back. The crafty devils at Seiko code their part numbers so you can derive the size and shape of the gasket from the number. Many of the dress watches use a flat gasket. Now that I think about it, y
  8. The white(ish) plastic part is the movement ring. It's there. Don't be surprised if it turns out to be a 6309 with a 6349 marked bridge. I bought several of those watches trying to get a real 6349. The 6349 has one jewel for the barrel as well as a few Diafix jewels for the train. You have to take if mostly apart to see for sure. If that is your movement, on the surface it looks better than any one I ever got.
  9. I guess we are the only two talking about this. Sadly, I have 10 years experience in the reader department. Your day will come. My moment of realization that it was time was when I was putting a new exhaust system on a Jeep. I couldn't focus on a nut for a clamp. At first I blamed the concrete driveway for not allowing to move my head back far enough. Then I blamed the lack of a lift kit on the Jeep not giving me enough distance. Finally an older friend passed me his reading glasses and, problem solved. $4 readers were a lot cheaper than a lift kit. I have tried the high power gl
  10. Something like this is what I was thinking: https://www.amazon.com/Dental-Power-Binocular-Loupes-Aluminum/dp/B012M3IV80/ref=sr_1_8?dchild=1&keywords=dentist+stereo+loupe&qid=1609106943&sr=8-8
  11. I think those confuse 3.5x with +3.5 diopter. The Chinese sellers are not always accurate with their descriptions/translations. That said, my brother had to do some close in work and couldn't find his magnifier. He stacked a couple pairs of reading glasses and got a better look at what he was working on. Good enough in a pinch is what he said.
  12. Never saw the show but I think I know what you are referring to. Search for surgical binocular loupe or dental binocular loupe. Is that what you are thinking of? 2x-4x, binocular and long working distance. My dentist and hygienist use something similar but I think theirs cost a lot more than $30-40. The dentist's say Zeiss , the hygienist's are no name. Anything Zeiss is way out of my price range.
  13. The spring in there is much larger than any spring bar spring. My watch is back together. The spring in a Seiko diver is much stronger than any spring bar spring. I have used both on projects. The Biro ball and spring bar spring get the job done but are nowhere near factory parts in strength rating. One genuine Seiko click ball and spring will set you back $15. I got a 20 pack of springs and 100 pack of BBs for less than $15. The plunger is to the right of the hole, on its side, in the first picture. It is installed in the hole in the second picture.
  14. Birro is English english for ball point pen? Those will work but the ball is tungsten and purposely rough. It will eat up the bezel. I have replaced the 1mm ball in several Seiko watches. I bought a 100 count bag of 1mm stainless steel ball bearings on amazon. This is not the same. It is a spring loaded plunger with a pin in the center. The pin is close to 1mm and the plunger is maybe 2.5mm? I didn't have my calipers out and I already put the bezel back on. Sorry about that. Should have measured it. You can see the spring in the hole in the first picture. A watchmaker c
  15. I stand corrected. Now I have to fix my bezel. Was hoping to make it uni directional but not possible.
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