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I've attached the specifications for your watch. so to get your comparison right you have to set your timing machine the way they specify. Specifically 20 seconds between positions to settle down and 40 seconds measuring time. For the grade of your watch it's timed in three positions and 16 seconds is within the specifications. I don't suppose you have a timing before servicing? Then the reason why your watch is doing what it's doing is this is the way it was manufactured unless you have a previous timing that shows it was better at one time. So the most common thing affecting your positional errors would be the poise of the balance wheel. Eta 2836-2 manufacturing information.pdf

You can check bestfit or Jules borel if there is any compatible balance . Bestfit catalog you can find on the forum. Search bestfit .

Its not a brand I'm familiar with, but I like the styling of it. I'm not one for overly ornate, with lots of bling. The clean lines and very readable layout on that Damasko are definitely my cup of tea.

Today it's my Damasko DA45, back fresh from a service. I have the brilliant Damasko bracelet for this watch, but lately I've been wearing it on a variety of NATO's. This one is a Blushark Orca NATO. This is my favorite tool watch. I'm not a diver, so the bezel rotating both ways is a convenient plus for me. The proprietary Damasko hardening process has proven itself to me. This watch has seen a lot of wrist time and the case still looks like new. It's been covered in fish gunk, in the water more than I can recount, banged around a bit, and shows no signs of use. I like that it's a rather obscure watch. I've never seen another one in the wild.

Thanks for your responses. I removed the cannon pinion and used a smooth broach and a pair of finger nail clippers to tighten as suggested. In addition I lubricated the cannon pinion prior to staking it back onto the driving wheel. Yes, this movement has a Achilles heel with this design, but now its runs great and the hands work beautifully. BTW, good luck finding a 4F part for this caliber movement. Again, thanks for all the help.

I've now been wearing my red and black radio room Amphibia/Albatros (first picture of the first post in this thread) for exactly one month since I last regulated it (Vostok cal. 2409 manual). December 27th it was 29.5 seconds late, and today it's 32.5 seconds late. It has lost three seconds in a month! It's been a long time since I wore a quartz watch, but as I remember it, those weren't much better than that over time. Of course, it largely depends on how the watch is worn, stored and wound, but nevertheless, I'm "blown away"! Who said Russians weren't up to the Swiss!?

I started on Seiko’s and failed a lot then moved to PW and had some success- not making parts but cleaning and oiling as they are so much nicer to work on while you’re learning the basics. Now back to Seiko’s but have a soft spot for PW, well I thought I did but seeing JD’s pic I now realise I may be not quite as keen as some! My favourite is an old Rolex movement PW that my 97 year old neighbour that I look after a bit gave me. (Don’t worry, I checked and it’s not worth much or I would have said no). It was a non runner in a ratty gold plated case. It now runs like a train, although I am still on the lookout for a nice silver case for it which will suit it better. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Sometimes one should just leave them dirty... what you can't see doesn't exist I had the exact same experience today when I picked out a project from the pile.

Safety razor should suffice, otherwise you may want to get combat ready . Slot or no slot, hammer in a utility knife.

It just pops off. Use a single edge razor blade or thin knife or other tool and just work it off. There is a perfect example of one with the back off on eBay. Steve Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk Pro