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Showing content with the highest reputation on 09/07/2018 in all areas

  1. 2 points

    Journal; What To Put In?

    I write down exactly what I have taken off the watch and in what order in my watch/clock log book. Also get used to writing down what the part is, i.e. a setting lever screw, winding pinion etc. That's good practice and before long you will know what the part is and log that a lot quicker than looking it up every time. I still take pictures along the way as I'm stripping down, so if I do run into a problem putting it back together I can refer back to the picture, which has been most helpful at times. Cousins UK have a lot of PDF movement documents to download: https://www.cousinsuk.com/document/department/watch-movements You can also hunt down the particular watch movement in other places as well. Once I have totally finished stripping down, I upload the pictures into my PC and file under Seiko 5 (6309), I also accompany those pics with a PDF of that particular movement if I can find one. In this case, I have attached a schematic and parts list of that particular Seiko 5. The next time I work on that particular model of watch again, I have something to refer back to. I find this way works well for me. What I find helpful is when taking the watch apart, I put certain pieces together. Let's say I remove the balance cock, then I would put the balance cock and that screw together in a compartment of a tray. After stripping down, I may have 10 compartments filled with various parts. So all of the keyless work will go in one compartment and all the wheels in another. I find this helps especially when keeping screws with their corresponding pieces. Once all the compartments are filled, I take a picture of each compartment especially of the screws, so when they have been cleaned, I know which screws go with which parts and put them back into those compartments ready for re-assembly. This adds a couple of minutes to the whole process but has saved getting parts/screws mixed up on occasion. I found a 'walk through' of the movement you are working on.. Seiko 5 6309A.pdf
  2. 1 point

    Hello from France

    Hi you all watch lovers Today I've been searching for one of my oldest posts and I realised that I never introduced myself here so lets go now ... Though I'm almost 59 I'm really new to the horology hobby and I came in by chance. 3 years ago I still was hard long distance runner ... and when I write long I mean looong, from marathon to 62 miles and more On January 2016 I suddenly suffered from sciatica. I went to my doctor and he discovered I had a degenerative narrowing of the lumber vertebral canal something that would bring me to paralysis if not cared for. So on January 2017 I've had a huge lumber surgery and had to stay at home for months. As I really cant stay without doing anything, I searched my drawers, found some watches that had been there for years and begun trying to repair/refubrish these. The convalescence, which should have lasted about 1 year, have been much longer than expected. Today I'm OK, swimming and hicking again. I've tried running short distance (when I write short I mean 6 miles and less) so I'll probably increase the distances and try a long trail in a few months, But I wont stop working on watches becausee I really love that hobby. Thanks for reading
  3. 1 point
    The Witschi representatives in Hong Kong are really nice people, today I visited their booth at the Hong Kong Watch & Clock fair and they gladly showed my the first ever analyzer using optical data acquisition (as well acoustic), the Wisioscope S. The balance wheel movement is captured by a lens ans sendors, that works even the movement is in a plastic case. After processing it's displayed together with the audio in an "overlapped" format using different colors for the two channels. In an another display mode (I suppose there are even more) the display shows frame-by-frame images from the high-speed camera for visual analysis, I suppose to diagnose issue like pallets depth, lift angle. The machine is hence able to accurately display the latter for any watch mov.t. The apparatus is meant for manufacturer's R&D centers, and cost in excess of 10,000 CHF. The other new product is their PC-based timegrapher, called CronoMaster. Sorry, no pictures for this one, physically it consist of a nice multi-position mic with USB interface for a Windows PC or tablet. I haven't played much it but it looked nice enough. Full specs and screenshots on their websites. Cost is about 2,000 CHF.
  4. 1 point
    You have identified the error area. It must be the pallet stone is loose and therefore too high, a escape wheel tooth has been bent or the banking pins are the style that can be adjusted with an eccentric.
  5. 1 point
    way too many things going on with this watch to follow the subject. For the picture where you think the pallet stone is on top of the escape wheel was it actually on top of the escape wheel? Because later on in your discussion it makes it sound like everything is fine? then parts swapping isn't always the best idea. It depends upon when these watches were made as to whether the pallet fork is fit to the escapement or whether the pallet forks are generic. In modern watches you can swap all the parts with no real issues. But if this fork has been fit for the escapement swapping with another fork might not be in your best interest. Unless you want to adjust the escapement which you may have to do anyway. I assume you did check the escapement like how much lock etc. then the software you using the full version has interesting feature found at the link below. it be interesting to see one of these plots for your watch http://www.watchoscope.com/manual.html#raw
  6. 1 point
    Well, well ........ the movement stopped again. I had a close look with my 10x eye-loupe and it seemed that one pallet-jewel is stuck on top of an escapement teeth. I removed the balance carefully and luckily the fork stayed in the stuck position, enabling me to take some pictures. Here an enlargement of the escape wheel / pallet jewel section. The red arrow is pointing towards where the pallet jewel seems to be stuck on top of the teeth. Also note that the fork is only halve way between the banking pins. How & why is my next investigation ....... it may however explain a lot of the problems encountered ...... perhaps Clockboy is on the right spot? Not an easy fault to spot when things are in motion ! I'll of course check if the jewels are tight in the fork .... (BTW; if not, what to do exactly? I've never done that before!) Will report back on my findings ......
  7. 1 point
    Setting the lift angle on a Timographer makes only the slightest of differences to the readings. Looking at your readings it is indicating something is amiss with the escape. By any chance is one of the pallet stones loose or are the pivots on the pallet folk OK.
  8. 1 point
    It looks remarkably like an st 96. When I embarked on this hobby a few years ago I purchased of a well known auction site what I thought was genuine Tissots Titoni Oris etc only to find that someone in this big wide world has purchased hundreds of these movements, stamped one of the bridges with Tissot Oris or whatever and then got a group of schoolchildren to repaint the dials. That is not to say that the st 96 is not a reliable unit. Its just that I learnt the hard way. Not everything is what it seems. Sellers are reluctant to show the movement.
  9. 1 point
    I would say the problem is going to be from the pallets to the balance wheel. Have you checked the impulse pin, balance staff, what is the finish on the pallet forks like? To me that m/spring looks alright, it looks fine un-wound.
  10. 1 point
    Looking at your original walkthrough, isn't your mainspring a bit fatigued/set looking? I hope someone with more experience can advise if this is or isn't the case Sent from my Redmi 4X using Tapatalk
  11. 1 point

    The "Screw-peg" ®

    Hello All; Surely "invented" before, but I've never seen it..... therefor I call it the "Screw-peg" ® Struggling to get a 70-years old NOS ladies movement to run properly, I had some serious pegging of very small jewels to do, including the very small balance pivot jewels. (if curious, read https://www.watchrepairtalk.com/topic/9705-servicing-laco-503-501/) My experiences with these tiny holes are that if you get the tip of peg-wood in the jewel-bore, it brakes off easily. Next to that, once you got the peg-wood in, while rotating, your fingers slide & rotate down. Once the fingers are to the end of the peg-wood, and some more pegging is required, you either have to pull the wood and try it again or; try, with the peg-wood still in the bore, to get your fingers back on top of the peg-wood ........ with a very high probability that the peg-wood tip brakes off; left behind stuck in the jewel Something had to be thought of ........ ; I had a box full of toothpicks which were 1.6mm in diameter. One of my screwdrivers took 1.6mm steel tips. I removed the steel tip, cut one end of the toothpick off and inserted the toothpick in the screwdriver-handle. It's a nice press fit. The toothpick-tip can be sharpened multiple times by either a knife or dressing it on a diamond stone. Now, with the peg-wood tip in the jewel, you can rotate as long as you deem required. I also found to have very high control over steadiness, angle, rotation and applied pressure. It works for me like a treat ! Of course the ® isn't
  12. 1 point

    The "Screw-peg" ®

    Great idea! Will definitely try this later. You could stick a Bergeon logo on these and get £80 on eBay easily ;-) Sent from my Redmi 4X using Tapatalk
  13. 1 point

    New to the world of watch repair

    Good luck with the watch leelem. Welcome here. Do some video study and get info on "how to" then go carefully. Never force anything. Regards, Mike.
  14. 1 point
    I post that and five minutes later I get it to pop off with a razor blade...haha. Just had to be careful and work it around slowly. This was one of those it’s easier to do when you know it can be done scenarios. Thanks again
  15. 1 point

    Help with this tool

    I have seen this in a picture, hold hairspring stud, the H/S end placed into stud, ready for pinning. Expectedly many other use though.
  16. 1 point
    Hold the stem with your pin vise where the arrow is pointing and tighten right up. Then unscrew the button. New movements come with the plastic buttons so they can be tested winding up the normal way before they are sent out to the customer. There is no reason why you cannot use the stem. It is a waste of money buying another.
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