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The unwritten rule with watch repair is don't apply force to anything. I have not worked on this movement but I presume these wheels where on posts. The way to remove is by using the correct puller as below. Or a very straight pull.

Today I was doing three things at once, which Is always a bit iffy for me .I was Cleaning a Rockford 18size P/W movement, I was painting sand dunes and making a oilier & brush rack for my work bench. All the came out better than I expected. Here is the workbench addition.

Thought I would post my first new watch... This was the first thing I bought when I came aboard the USS L.Y. Spear as a young Seaman back in 1974. I still wear it regularly, in rotation with my other watches...

I did one similar recently, and used the presto tool that @clockboy shows to separate the wheels, and then set up my staking set to put them back together again. No problem. If you don't have the tools, then take @anilv's advice, and do the best job you can without taking them apart.

On most watches you can just clean it in-situ and oil it from underneath the bridge if you can't slide your oiler under the wheel. The problem is not removing the wheel, its getting it back in place as you will need to press it in from above but the pressure will mean that the wheel will pivot will also be pushing on the dial-side jewel and this is really not a good thing. Anilv

Hi there, friends of mechanical movts, for cleaning oil pots I use brake cleaning fluid, a mixture of different hydrocarbons. The same can be applied to clean watch parts and solve debris from aged oil, grease etc. But don’t forget to open the window Oilers: I use several of the coloured series but for the escapement I made a “special tool”. A grinded sewing needle. To concentrate very small amounts of oil I fell it is helpful to apply epilam on the tip of the needle. Regards

I haven't modified an ergonomic. I generally oil under a microscope, and haven't had a problem getting oil to transfer with them (and the oil sits the same way).

The balance wheel issue is separate from the hairspring issue. Perhaps you accidentally moved it when you removed the hairspring? Great job on fixing the hairspring! Anilv

With experience you'll do it by feel. One thing not mentioned above is where you dip the oiler makes a difference. Dipping at the edge (shallow area) will pick up less oil and in the middle (deep) will pick up more. In the same vein, an oiler held vertically will pick up less oil than one held at an angle. Oilers need to be very clean as an oily oiler wil allow the oil to creep upwards. A poke into rodico each time may seem wasteful but I find that it helps in only getting the desired amount on the oiler. The reason most peope overoil is that they cannot see the oil. What you need to do is ensure that you have a drop of oil on the oiler before you touch the oilsink and make sure that you're accurate enough and the oil drop dissapears off the oiler. If you look at the oil sink you will see some reflection as the oil goes around the pivot but after a while you will learn to trust your actions. If you want to check on your oiling go ahead and oil and then remove the bridge to observe the underside of the jewel. You will see a small drop of oil around the pivot hole but not touching the edges, probably about a third of the available area. Good luck! Anilv

and for those who want to try a DIY dia.... http://www.stefanv.com/watches/making-custom-watch-dials-1.html Regards Deggsie

Wore the Shturmanskie today - a Poljot chronograph that I've owned since it was new. It's showing some wear now, mainly the missing chrono reset stud and not much chrome left on the crown. If anybody can suggest a source for Poljot parts, I'd be grateful! I think Mark recently posted a teardown of this movement. Gryf

I wore the Sekonda today. This is one of two watches I ordered from Etsy a few months ago, the other being a Slava that shares the same movement and case, but with a different dial. Gryf

I,ll work with you to narrow down and hopefully find the solution. If you got the basic tools, screwdriver, tweezers and wrench to remove the back if neccesary. Appearantly the watch holds about 3 to six hours of power, starts with a shake. How long after the shake dose it run?