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Do the HS threads stick to each other like magnets or because they are dirt or something ? Have you noticed any gunk or lube on the threads ? Does the watch run very fast ? (that's how you usually tell that the HS is magnetized) Have you tried the compass trick ?

I had the same issue. The new bergeon canon pinion mover tool does not work with the smaller pinions. Really annoying considering the price. Looking at the vintage versions of this tool they close to a finer setting. Maybe there now made in India !!!

Minimum size is 1.0 mm . Most cannon pinions for smaller watches are 0.8 to 0.9 . But as you say Mark's tool looks different then yours. Can it be adjusted maybe? Like a pin vice?

I have tried and failed. I used the finest of finest brushes and it produced numerals that where to thick. I did consider "letraset" numerals but could not find a font small enough. A a professional dial restorer is required. PS I wish I knew how they did it

Yes it might be, but Breguet overcoil doesn't account for the thickness of that first coil. I'm not sure if that alone explains +3 hours a day, but I'd start with that hairspring. It doesn't look right. J

Many thanks for the kind words on my efforts to date No but I work with a lot of people who have, its funny where conversation lead sometimes but I mentioned in passing to someone I worked with a clock I wanted to restore with a wooden case but didn't know the best way to remove scratches from the wood, he then told me the best way to do this, it turned out when he first left school he was apprenticed to a cabinet maker and had served his time so I read up on the methods he told me and have used them ever since, before this I had sanded a clock down with less than spectacular results.Very fine wire wool and methylated spirits does not remove the surface of the wood it just breaks the old varnish down to such an extent it can be easily wiped off, if the scratches are not very deep and do not break the surface very fine wire wool and a very tiny amount of spirits and a bit of light rubbing will remove these without removing the varnish My theory on the Belgian slate is that oxidisation happens at the exposed surface of the slate, it is despite appearance a very porous material, it is also not marble its a form of calcite which is crystalline in composition as light hits the oxidised surface light is reflected back and it appears grey to the eye applying oil stops the crystalline structure of the surface reflecting light back and it appears black to the eye. It is surprising how little is needed and you should be able to touch it if left overnight and have no oily residue because the oil has been totally absorbed by the porous surface, wax polish just seals the surface once applied. Why baby oil well its a cheap mineral oil but I have read on various forums on the web that people who have tried slate oil say that baby oil works far better. I know which screws to blue because you mentioned it in a post quite a while back that the end bearing screw for the contrate wheel should not be blued although I have noticed on 1970's English carriage clock's such as Fema it always is blued. I also remove any dimple from this screw which may be apparent whilst servicing. I'm afraid I cheat with the lacquer I have made many failed attempts to brush it on, clear lacquer is easier to apply with a brush but as soon as you start using tinted lacquers any imperfections in application become glaringly obvious, so I spray it on with a air brush.

From day one of joining this forum, this is what I have been hopping to see. A member who takes pride in his work in restoring clocks to a very high standard. I have been studying the photos and work with a big smile on my face. Wis1971, where did you learn you skill? Did you serve an apprenticeship? You remind me of myself years ago. I loved my work so much it became more of a hobby. Lenzkirch ting tang the material colour is correct. Most of the ones I have seen have been red. I think I can remember seeing a sort of dirty blue/green, which did not look right. The gongs can be tricky to restore. I do not know if you do this with all your clocks ignore this if you do. I would always put the arbors in a lath and polish the fronts with fine emery so it looks as if they have been burnished the same goes for the tip of the centre wheel. Going on to the French clocks. Baby oil is a new one on me. I am wondering what does it have in it to mask or remove oxidisation, because that is what happens to black slate cases? The carriage clocks are amazing. I can see you know what screws to blue and the ones not to. Fitting a replacement platform, having the correct size with the screw holes in their correct place can be a pain. Horolaq laquer is a cold laquer. I had a very fine artist brush it was flat to apply it, also dries quick. With your skills, you must be able to undertake invisible re-bushing. With carriage clocks, there is nothing worse than seeing bad work.

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