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Here they are Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

So my order arrived today from Esslingers, and the main thing was a new set of screwdrivers. I was skeptical at the thought of a set like this for under $100 but all I can say is WOW! Very solid base that rotates on ball bearings, hefty weight to the screwdrivers themselves, and a full set of replacement blades as well. Also scored a new movement holder, some emery sticks, and a couple other odds and ends. A new workmat too, this one can be wiped down and is padded. The movement pictured is my new project, an Illinois 19j Bunn, I think I'll document the process in the walk through section.

I should have explained that better. Essentially before I got it, given the history (Scandinavian, aviation, design and horological) I built it up in my mind and it got worse as I serviced it, everything in the movement just seem to be designed so well. But when I put it on my wrist it just cant live up to that impossible image. Onward to a watch that did the opposite. My first impressions of the Alpinist was small and dull. But it really grew on me and the dial/handset combination plays with the light just beautifully. Picture reflects the Swedish weather quite well, grey and cold.

If I can manage to get it in an envelope and keep it under 5mm thick, then I can send to Romania for £1.20. Just PM me if you want one.

To me a fake is something not made or authorised by the original maker. There are levels of 'fakes' the Swiss made pocket watches to look like they were made in the USA, but weren't and were much more cheaply made. If sold as a watch made in the USA you could call it a fake. If sold as a Swiss watch in the 'American Style' I wouldn't call that a fake, but it could still trick some buyers into thinking they were getting something the aren't. My post was more about modern fakes. Either something made within the last few years to look like its much older, or a genuine old watch / clock modified to make it look like its more valuable than it is like the post above with an old watch fitted with a new dial to make it look like it was a German military watch. Then you get homage watches that can fall into a grey area.

So with any watch that has gears and lubrication with time lubrication will do bad things. Then add in all the other things mentioned by wolfwatchwerks In his answer sooner or later your watch is not going to work and will have problems. I've attached PDFs for servicing and not sure whether you have the A or the B version 7T32B&7T42B.pdf 7T32A.pdf

You’re awesome my friend thank you, What made me remove the movement is the seconds winder keep getting stock with minutes Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I have now painted the part with Hammer Paint and it looks great. This paint is a primer and a paint and is very durable. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

Hi, I have one of these, mine is a sub model -6L09- if at all possible it may need to be serviced. I know it sounds strange, service a quartz?!?!? it could possibly need an oiling after such a long time. I have been through the gambit on mine. It is possible that some of the magnets (stepper gears) are old and worn out. (is there anything magnetic near where you store your watch?) The circuit block is defective,(growing tin whiskers) there may be a build up of some rust in areas like the levers and pushers. The quartz crystal canister could be faulty. Make sure when shorting the AC (All Clear) both crowns are pulled out all the way. After shorting the AC also short the battery + to the circuit block clamp (the plate that holds the circuit block down) for good measure. Install case back, return crowns to running position, reset chronograph function. (main crown pulled out all the way) then test. Failing those things replace the movement. You are actually lucky there are some 7T32B movements for sale right now on ebay brand new, old stock. Just a tad over $100 bucks US. Very challenging model to maintain on your own, but it can be done. Good luck. Keep us posted.

What made you remove the stem from the movement? Was it broken? I believe that most quartz movements will not run if the stem is pulled out to the setting position. If you removed the stem, you probably put the keyless work in setting position as you pulled it out. It should go back into running position when the stem is replaced pressed all the way in. If not, maybe something's hanging up, or got semi-permanently displaced, in that keyless work area. That looks like a very complicated quartz movement, so I hope it's something simple. Good luck.

Hey thank you for the advice. You are correct about the Elgin’s as I have worked on those too. But mine as well as the OP’s is slipping on a Waltham. If you’ve had experience with them as well, I’d love to hear it. Cheers mate! mousekar Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk