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You need a crystal press and few more tools to replace crystals. Your is an expensive watch, consider having the work done by a professional.

These are french hole closing punches used to reduce the diameter of pivot holes on clocks a full description of there use can be found here http://www.nawcc-index.net/Articles/Murray-punching.pdf

I am a newbie so grain of salt and etc... Left to right: The stamping on the tweezers indicates what model it is. It seems like the letters and numbers are standard among manufactures. I looked up "C" and nothing came up. I could be that the watchmaker grind a spare tweezer for a special purpose. Maybe holding pivots? No idea. I seen that on Ebay listing so it's probably another wacky looking watch tool. No idea. I am guessing that the collar on the tool slides on the arms to tighten on a pinion. It's basically a pin vise. This is probably to heat up pieces to put shellac on it. You put the brass plate over a flame and put the shellac on it. You attach jewels in way. This funny looking tool is a holder for the roller impulse jewel on the balance staff. People use this tool to replace the impulse on very old pocket watches where parts are extremely scarce. This blog post showcases the usage of two of your tools. I don't know about the last two. Looks like some sort of holder for a part. For the first picture, it looks like something you put pinions into to true a wheel. Although it missing the upper half if that's the case. Maybe it's part of a staking set and it holds parts with pinions? For the second picture, I agree. It does look like center punches. You can easily figure that out by using it.

Hands look like they've been painted? Problem with chronos in general is the seconds hand needs to be a tight fit to cope with the 'snap' when re-setting. New original Seiko ones are not easy to find and aftermarket ones are of doubtful quality. So if you are doing it yourself you need to be careful when fitting it back on. Movement holders are useful for chronos. Anilv

I personally would leave it as it is especially in view of the fact that original pogues are getting harder to come by as virtually all the spares are no longer available , there are so many that have aftermarket dials hands bezels and crystals . As mentioned above a new crystal will make the world of difference but sourcing an origina/genuine one of those will be reasonably difficult and quite costly . I have used a generic crystal in a seiko chrono not a pogue and it just didn't look right , the edges were to rounded

Hello! I believe that is degraded lacquer from the dial itself. Removing it even carefully will likely leave a clear mark. I’ve learned the hard way. The dial itself is not bad at all and a new crystal will make it look more like desirable patina. Hands and markers looks very good! [emoji1303] Please keep us posted. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I've seen worse for pocket watch mainsprings but a new spring would be nice. You need the width and strength and length. Then mainsprings are interesting in how their measured. Then mainsprings have interesting measurements they can be measured in metric, inches and Dennison or combination of all three. Which of course depends upon the watch like an American pocket watch is conceivably all three this being Swiss probably could be all metric but package could still be marked in Dennison. Then the end of the spring is important and your end is interesting. The barrel has a slot like a T end but it also looks like we need a better view of the end of the spring is probably a T brace type spring. Which is interesting because the 18 SPB doesn't have a spring like this. So metric with of the spring. Thickness micrometer is better than a veneer caliper because you usually wiggle the spring around and you usually get the wrong measurement. Then the length for anything I usually do is in inches but you can make it metric. Then I can look at my mainspring book see what's close it looks like it's probably a DBH end at least that's what the majority of Omega pocket watch spring ends are if they're not the standard end. Then photograph of the end of the spring just to make sure we see what the end type is. Mainspring - DennisonChart.pdf

Seiko with Inca bloc springs? Never seen that? Seiko shok springs are the easiest ones to work on. Just put one end under the lip and twist. Diafix are tricky. But never seen that on a 7s26 . Is it the new or the old springs? The inca bloc break from time to time . Use a sharp tweezer when open them. Put it back and close it when you clean the movement. Open it again with a oiler. Hardest to work on is the kif springs. Or the russian .