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I just thought it would be interesting to post my experience of original Omega ub crystals versus Cousins generic parts with an omega symbol. I have a vintage Seamaster and fitted a Cousins steel ring crystal some months ago. The diameter at 29.6mm was right, but Cousins do not offer any range of heights. Looking straight on, everything was ok, but at an angle, the edge distortion was significant. The crystal also scratched very easily. I have just replaced with a genuine Omega part, at 3 times the price. So what's the difference? Well the Omega part is 0.5 mm lower. Sounds like nothing, but it makes a significant difference visually. The chrome ring is wider with a shallower angle. It's hard to describe how that affects the illumination of the dial, but it does. The edge distortion is also gone. So maybe no surprises. We buy watches because of the way they look (well I do anyway), and will therefore be critical if they don't look right. Not quite right was annoying me, and it's surprising how much difference these minor details make. So what's my point? Well hopefully when we can no longer buy a genuine Omega part, there are better quality generic alternatives or sadly these old watches will start to lose some of their subtle beauty... S

After discussions between Mark and the moderators, it was Marks decision with our unanimous backing, that this section should be dropped. I am not going to go into detail about the discussions.

Although I was trying to be good and not purchase anything till I had sorted out the multitude of watches I have in the queue, I saw this Accutron on the bay and bought it for £32.49 plus about $5 postage to my sons place in LA. I had not got an Accutron 2210 up to this point in time, and to be honest the movement does not have a particularly good rep for reliability. However, the parts are comparitively cheap compared to the 214 and 218 and through a quirk of fate I have quite a few NOS 2210 parts that were amongst a job lot of 214 and 218 bits I bought some time ago. It is a 1973 movement and coincidentally that is when these were first produced and the movement is quite small, being used in lots of ladies watches which do not command the same prices as the mens accutrons - good for getting parts. I queried with the vendor the size and was advised it is 34mm excluding the crown so it is in a mans case. Condition was described as "Awesome" but I will settle for reasonably good seeing it is over 40 years old, there are some scratches on the glass and I deduce from the back that the case is gold plated which is difficult to tell from the photos, but I will take what comes. It will be a while until it is sent over to me along with some 218 coils I took a punt on but I look forward to seeing it. Was not going to buy any more repair jobs but I weakened, however, I am definitely back on the wagon for a while. Cheers, Vic

I think you're talking about an acrylic cristal, 7 GBP generic Vs 25 for the original? Not too bad in either case. Consider that owners of Omega and other bespoken brands are being asked up to USD 600 (yes six hundreds) for a crystal change by "authorized dealers". In the future who is able to make good replacement parts may be able to enjoy a good market - and would deserve success IMHO.

Today a Disney Mickey Mouse watch got an airing.

You must have this on your drawers ?http://www.amazon.com/Jaipur-Market-Decorative-Ceramic-Drawer/dp/B00WOV3AGY/ref=pd_sim_sbs_60_3?ie=UTF8&dpID=51HU5TO-MCL&dpSrc=sims&preST=_AC_UL160_SR160%2C160_&refRID=0V9T8MD1MFP0E7GCF6QJ

I wonder if I can fit those in my mini workbench!

Tissot 2403 Service Walkthrough What is it with me and small movements?! I seem to attract them in absurd numbers. Oh well, here's another one to push my Zeiss optics to the limit, a Tissot 2403. My brother's father-in-law found this at the local rubbish tip, thrown away and unloved :( Upon initial inspection the condition looked dirty but not marked up, Canon Pinion felt good when setting the hands, and it seemed to wind smoothly. But alas it wasn't running at all. So to the bench I go, and de-case this little gem of a find. It removes like many ladies fashion watches, with the movement cradled in the Caseback. I removed it from the Caseback, and it looked remarkably clean. So I gave it a close inspection to see if there was something obvious that was stopping the movement. First thing that stood out, and is common on these types of movements, is the lack of a Crown Seal. As you can see there is a lot of contamination along the Stem, including nylon fibres ... perhaps from the sleeve of a sweater. I continued to look and found more of these fibres near the Balance. Continuing my inspection it was obvious that this watch was in desperate need of a complete service. Note the condition of the jewels. But besides a strip and clean, I couldn't see anything else wrong with it. No rust, nothing bent or broken; just some contamination stopping it from running. It's sad to see we live in such a throw away society today, 50 or 60 years ago this would have never been discarded on a tip. Ok, time to bring this watch back to life. First step as always, release the tension from the Mainspring, and remove the Balance and Pallets. Now the Balance and Pallet Fork safe, we can remove the Keyless Work. Start by removing the Hour Wheel, then the Setting Lever Spring. Then remove the Yoke and Setting Lever. Be sure to secure the Yoke Spring with Pegwood and note is orientation. Then remove the Minute Wheel and Setting Wheel. Then pull the Stem, and remove the Sliding Pinion and Winding Pinion. Flip it over and remove the Ratchet Wheel and Crown Wheel. Then you can remove the Mainspring and Train Bridges. As you can see, even if this watch was running, it would have not been giving accurate time. All the jewel holes are filthy! Here is a reference shot of the train on the 2403. Now, if you had good eyes you might have seen it. The object that stopped this watch from running. You guessed it ... a nylon fibre has found it's way into the wheels of the train, and gotten jammed between the Intermediate and Third Wheel. So know the mystery is solved, it's just a simple matter of cleaning and re-assembly. To Be Continued ......

I'm sorry in being late in welcoming you to this forum. I hope you enjoy yourself here. There's lots of great people on here that will be able to help you. I'm into clocks so if you need any help I'm your man

thanks for comments, all you people here are very nice!

Hahaha! I am just average height, hehe- Just please no 'keys hanger'! Okay; thankyou for the Amida watch information. This one has 21 jewels. It is also marked "Permaspring". I will have a close look under the balance wheel soon and get back to you, I am just at the moment measuring it's reserve power and it is just about to hit 24 hours. Everytime I look at this watch the better it gets! I'll try and get some good photos of under the balance wheel and pop them up here after it stops.

Been following him for a while along with watch guy http://watchguy.co.uk/ Watch spot blog http://thewatchspotblog.com/ And adventures in amateur watch fettling https://adventuresinamateurwatchfettling.wordpress.com/ all good blokes with great sites

I have looked at this tool many times. The idea is to secure hairspring stud while pinning a new hairspring to it I think. However I think it would be very handy when manipulating a hairspring. The cost as always put me off This tool might do the same job on the bay item number 311482941796

There needs to be a twelve step program for Ebay addiction. "Hello, I'm Dave and I have a watch problem" ;) David S - who has enough watches to fix to keep him busy until the end of time

This is the watch cleaning machine that I use ... very basic, but does a good job.

Tissot 2403 Service - Part 2 Tissot 2400,2401,2403,2404.pdf All the parts are now cleaning and ready to be assembled. I have to say that those Nylon fibres were everywhere!! Took me a long while to remove them off all the parts with an old piece of Rodico before cleaning, and even then, I STILL found tiny fibres after cleaning that I'd missed ... so my cleaning solution is now contaminated and needs to be changed @!#*%^# Arrgh!! :roadrage: Ok, I've clamed down :P ... on with the service. Secure the Main Plate in your movement holder and replace the Train. Then replace the Train Bridge and gently worry the wheels into their jewels. Then with a piece of Pegwood to hold the bridge in place tighten down the screws. Always continue re-checking that the train is running free as you secure the screws. It's good to see those jewel holes are now nice an clean. Once you've oiled with Mainspring and placed it back into the Barrel, replace it onto the Main Plate. Replace the Barrel Bridge, and Click. Replace the Click Spring, Ratchet Wheel and Crown Wheel. Then carefully place the Pallet Fork and Pallet Cock back into it's respective place. Once the Pallet is in place, give the Ratchet Wheel a few turns and check that the Pallet is operating correctly. Next the Balance and Incablocs need to be cleaned in Lighter Fluid. Once clean replace the Balance and Incablocs Now give the Ratchet Wheel a couple of good winds and check the oscillation of the Balance. It's now time to start on the dial side of the movement. Oil up your Winding Pinion and Sliding Pinion. Replace the Winding and Sliding Pinion, Setting Lever, Yoke and Yoke Spring. Replace the Canon Pinion, Minute Wheel and Intermediate Wheel. Then replace the Setting Lever Spring and secure it down. Replace the Dial and Hands, and your done :) Nothing left to do then adjust the timing and case it up. I hope these reference photos help those looking at servicing this movement, and I must say that it was a lovely movement to work on. Another watch saved from the rubbish tip.