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Hi guys, Awesome link, the guy sells about everything. Looking for an appealing watch display I tried to buy this: but he said he only sold the dress so I declined. :) More seriously, I didn't find the circular pen holder. Was that something he provided out of ebay? Cheers, Bob

I'm the other extreme. i purchased a Chinese set that look like Bergeon, I have used them for four years now and only dressed them once. That was only because I made a jig for sharpening them. They have never bent or chipped in all the time I have had them, and all for £5.29 delivered. The proof of the pudding is long term use!

Does it really matter whether or not they are genuine Favourite. For a long time I used a cheapish set marked A*F which have served me well. When a watchmaker friend sold up he let me have a Bergeon set and as far as I can tell, apart from the knob being a little smoother, there isn't a lot of difference. You need to be using them all day on a professional basis to really say you can distinguish differences. Another point is that I think the really important thing is the quality of the blades. If the ones you have turn out to have faults then just buy new blades and if you want supposed really top quality then buy Bergeon ones but I'm sure it will be a long time before you can tell the difference. It's a known fact that we all get carried away with acquiring tools and we strive for the best but it"s been pointed out many times that "the best" i.e. Bergeon are ripping us of to a ridiculous extent. You have a box marked " Favourite " who's going to fake that ? Accept them for what they are. Use them to repair some watches and be happy. Stop worrying about brand names, it doesn't matter. What does matter is how well you repair watches.

I found this one so unpretentious yet very elegant and so pleasurable to wear , I still hesitate to buy the moon watch (too iconic may be) , this one seems to have earned its nobility instead of been born with it and I like that. just beautiful.

Whew - thought of Mrs. Vic...

It does make a lovely job Colin, but not required unless you just have to have hollow ground blades.

Hi Chriz, I don't think the movement needs resetting although you are right in assuming that being quartz it may need to. Not in this case but yes, some movements and I can think of the Miyota 0510 and/or the Hattori V657 do need to be reset after a battery change. I happen to have a Choppard with a movement just like the one shown in your picture that is not running....but working. I suspect lots of dirt in the works since it has a pulse and when in the machine, its hands turn. I will try to service it and come back to this post with my report. In any case, I haven't been able to find the movement number either but I may need to take it out of the case to do so. The number is usually on the edge like the following example from esslinger: Cheers, Bob

I have an AF set and use Bergeon blades in them

Just took the words right out of my keyboard. Its all about the blades.

Office bound today so the Lemania gets an outing. Probably my best car boot score to date at just £7.50. Filthy dirty and not running but all it needed was a COA, a light polish, and a replacement crystal and strap.

i approached a seller direct l bought two of these plus two round also for 12 pens £12 including shipping that is for four stands i actually need more as i have 104 dumonts to store

Found this site with all the right names on different watch parts . Maybe in here already? http://people.timezone.com/library/horologium/horologium631670585403408066

Wearing my 'party watch' made of ebay Bits: I 'pimped' the ETA 6498 movement (polished the wheels, blued the screws and made the plates curvy). Keeps perfect time but MAN it's a loud tick Yes, I know the strap's the wrong size :-)

Nice looking watch Mira. Hope clockboy can help you . I do think like the others . Loose cannon pinion .

Welcome to the forum vivid. As the guys have indicated it is in the area of the cannon pinion that will be the problem. The only way to investigate will be to remove the movement from the case, remove the hands & possibly the dial. PS if you are not confident with this but you are willing to cover the post someone in your area (i.e. UK) will have a look & see. I live in Kent & will have a look just PM me.

In answer to your original question, yes it's most beneficial to use a scope, "see it big and adjust small" is the motto on hairsprings. The only restriction on a scope is the working height you may have over the spring, obviously you need enough of this to get your tweezers and teasers in there. The benefits of using a scope over loupe is the vertical view, this helps in checking the coils are perpendicular to the horizontal. The uniformity of the coils is most important to achieve good isochronism, if your not uniform in both form and space you will suffer in terms of position and mainspring power drop. Most people with a modicum of hairspring tweeking can get a good result in a couple of positions at full wind but when half wound it goes to pot !! Remember when your spring was originally formed it was a perfect coil, that's how it should be when your finished, or as close as you can get To give you an example of extremes, think shadow graph. A dark room, a flash light with the hairspring in front of it, and a white wall a distance away showing the hairspring shadow projected on to the wall. If the distance between the torch/ hairspring and the wall was large enough it would give you exceptional magnification of the whole spring and not just an isolated area. It's total form and your view of this would be probably the best you could get, every flat or kink could be easily seen, that what your aiming to achieve. Hairsprings are always difficult to work on but time and patience pay dividends, limit your spring work to an hour or so, clear your work area of all obstacles and have only your tweezers and teasers to hand. Remember the slight distraction can ruin your hours of work.

For me, as a novice watchmaker (master watchbreaker), aligning the pivots in the train bridge was the hardest thing to contend with. Patience, a delicate touch, and more patience is the best advice this rookie can offer you. Roger

my project lasted more than six months but everything has been done to the original parts so you can see the end result today. It was only install genuine bracelet;) before and after restored

I was asked to look at a Sekonda that was running for approx. 8/9 hours & then stopping but would run with again with encouragement. When I opened the watch it was extremely dirty But I noticed that under the mainspring barrel there was wear on the plate. After reassembling the barrel & bridge it was apparent that the barrel bridge hole for the barrel was very badly worn. The answer was to re-bush the hole. I had some clock bushes & luckily had a bushing that had the correct size hole. The problem was however the plate was only 0.373mm thick so effectively I had to make a bushing that was not much more than a washer. I turned the bush down on my lathe to a reasonable working thickness & then reamed out the hole for the new bushing (3.00mm). Then I fitted the bushing using my staking set & tested the hole was correct. After a lot of broaching using a smoothing broach achieved a good fit. I then removed the new bushing & using a soft piece of wood as a base filled & burnished the bush to the correct thickness. Then I finally pushed the new bushing in with my staking tool but added for safety some lock tight to it,s edge as it is a very thin bushing. Job done just the watch to re-assemble.

Providing it runs for 30hrs without a re-wind Job Jobbed PS before service & repairs DU - 29 S/D B.E 1.9

Yes, I re-use it a few times. By using small jars it works out a very economical way of cleaning. Have a read of my posts in this thread. http://www.watchrepairtalk.com/topic/2181-filthy-watches/?hl=%2Bpriory+%2Bpolish#entry22041