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Hi Murks have a look at the site "speedtimerkollection.com" located in Europe and deals in second user parts also welwynwatches.co.uk also second user parts. cheers

If the bends are near the stud, it's often easier to do it with the balance installed. I recently had to make a vertical bend at the start of the terminal curve and wasn't sure how. I posted it here how-do-i-make-a-vertical-hairspring-bend - as you see, using tweezers pushed in to some soft wood it's surprisingly easy and controllable. It should fix your problem ! I just need to do a twist near the guide pins to get it vertical, I'll try it without removing the balance from the movement. There is also a slight vertical bend, but I might leave that as is - the end of this spring has been tweaked a lot and I fear it may give way soon

I decided to wear this surprisingly accurate and stable Ingersoll today. The mechanism is a little primitive and there is no date quick set, but it does run pretty well for what it is. I would guess it is from the 1980s and has seen more time sitting in a drawer than it has on anyone's wrist, since it is clean as a whistle and almost blemish free.

DU and DD look very similar, and the amplitude looks about right to me. CR and CD don't look good though - I think it's because the hairspring isn't perfectly vertical between the guide pins and the gap's a bit big. I need to have another go at the hairspring - took some work to get it nearly flat and the terminal curve was all over the place ... and it's as soft as a wet noodle - I distorted it twice just refitting the balance I need some tea and a think - it's too hot here for fiddling with watches

I think this may help: https://www.sellbase-plateforme.com/media/tbrp/tbrp/7/70/7029-S5-GF.pdf The Bergeon brass tweezers (all gold plated) come in a few flavors: AM, 1AM, 2AM, F, and S5. If I'm not mistaken, all of these brass tweezers are made by Dumont for Bergeon. Seems like the 1AM one is the finest? I have one, and have to say it is my absolute favorite for light work. I do actively remember not to stress it out when working. As @ifibrin mentioned, the gold plating stops the brass from discoloring due to the brass reacting to the sweat from your hands. But it has a bonus effect of looking really good and making you feel special using it, and others will also notice how special you look. Also these good people around you will then contemplate "borrowing" it for various tasks, such as applying stickers and plucking eyebrows.

I just went through the checklist—will challenge my skills for sure—I’ve fouled more balance wheel and hairsprings trying to sort out issues (usually a non-flat hairspring) than actually fixed any—but I guess you have to jump in the pool if you’re going to learn to swim….. thanks

A cold beer mike but just one, too many and it wont be just the end curve thats all over the place . I'm having the same problem with a Unitas, got the end curve just nice but a vertical bend in the spring's height near the stud is doing my head in. I'm becoming tempted to send my lad for some ciders and i haven't drank for 15 years lol

I think you will be able to visually see that in CD it's likely running a much lower amplitude- like half the 290. The machines sometime double the amplitude when things are noisy (like a guard pin rubbing, hint hint).

This confused me the first time i experienced it. A wide line spacing from a high beat error bringing the two signals back together. Worth noting for beginners.

I have noticed this as well. Despite being confident by visually inspection when on the timegrapher it is out of beat. I don’t know if the watch when running has a slight lag between the horns of the balance folk and impulse jewel. Maybe!!

That's exactly why I'm posting Frank ! The trace, and visual set-up show small beat error, but the display shows 5.5ms. If you get a very high beat error (6-8ms?) one trace can wrap-round and overlay the other, so it looks like a small error. But, because it looks to be close visually, I'm sure this is not the case.

Yes. 1) Rate and beat error are derived from the distance between tic - toc - tic ... noises 2) Amplitude is derived from the length of one tic noise. For 1) using the 1st pulse of the beat noise is optimal, as it is the most precise one. But also another pulse, e.g. the higher 3rd pulse of each beat noise can be used. In this case, no amplitude measurement will be possible. Btw: your graph tells different: looks like a very small beat error! Frank

It is showing 60° more amplitude CD than dial down. I suspect that the timegrapher reading could be in error (weak signal?). This could be causing incorrect amplitude and beat error being shown. (Similar to the problem I think I'm having in my recent post!)

Yes dad these are very handy , i was lucky to pick up a set of steel dumont ones in a job lot. Its a nicer hand position for most work, very good for manipulating h/s i find

We cant tell from this photo murks. You'll need to get in close with a x20 loupe to fully inspect the screw and hole threads. If you are lucky the majority of the thread loss maybe on the screw and a new screw may provide enough grip to continue with your build. This is all providing that this is the original correct size screw. In watch repair always keep in mind that parts may not be original and may have been incorrectly used.

You have a really noisy line on one side of the escapement in CD, I would check in particular the fork horn and guard pin freedom on the entry side. In that position the sideshake of the balance will reduce the freedom on entry side. I wrote a basic checklist of the escapement here.

Excessive side shake on balance staff.

the purpose of the gold plating is to stop the oxidation of the parts of the brass tweezers that your hand/palm comes into contact with. I have the Bergeon brass unplated tweezers, and they turn brown quite quickly. I use the unplated Bergeon brass tweezers (7422), and I find them to be the best, as they require very little force to close and grip items. I haven’t had the need to dress these tweezers as long as you don’t try and force things with them, and take proper care of them.

Haha. I couldnt agree more. If mines happy then so am I. She's a strange one but lovely, lol but hey so am I so we must be right for each other.. Besides its gym day today, if i say nothing she might go easy on me. ( i very much doubt that though )

Quite right watchie you do need to watch your pan heat with some oils, rapeseed is another, both are far healthier as a dressing. Best oil is as you say pure butter from grass fed and finished animals if you can get it for red meat, coconut is good for most everything else. But worse still is the Teflon that is coating your pan. This stuff is terrible and it doesnt leave our human system for decades. A good quality carbon steel pan is your best choice and then learn how to properly season it. One of the most healthy food choices you can make and always my first recommendation when i give advice would be to completely cut out processed foods. Reduce your preservative intake as much as possible, not easy, salt a relatively safe option. The caveman didn't ingest chemical or grain for that matter. If we get on to diet i will waffle on for hours lol.

Hi Murks. Just asking if you are aware that most crown wheel screws have a left handed thread. Sometimes indicated by a line either side of the screw slot, not allways but when that indication is there you know it is definitely left handed. So that screw can occasionally get broken off or the thread stripped, i will assume this is what has happened hear. Post close up photos of the screw and the threaded hole it fastens to.

I try some of the olive oil we have in the kitchen. (OT, but I'm generally very suspicious of seed oils because they form aldehydes (highly carcinogenic) when heated in a frying pan. I always use real butter when frying. Expensive as hell, but better than cancer. In my opinion, food products made from seed oils are unfit for human consumption.)

http://cgi.julesborel.com/ Then " Search for parts for manufacturers from A to F" Select "FHF" then "FF 175", then "Barrel Arbor" will show all other movements using this part

Ha. It worked beautifully. Can’t say the same for the movement though. I promptly bought an auto oiler after that Not so sure about the genius part though. Let’s all agree on the wonders of editing?

Hi the logo states as you found out its By Thomas Ernst Haller of Schwenningen Germany, The Kienzle watch factory also Schwennigen used a similare mark registered in 1952. 43 C/m is the pendulum length D.R.G.M is a design patent Deutsche Reich Gebraumiester. Trade mark was redistered in 1904. Thos Haller was bought by Kienzle factory in 1928 hence the similar logo.

In the watch collecting community, the concerns about non-original parts are heightened and rather than just calling something out as a "frankenwatch" they may call it a "fake" even if it contains authentic manufacturer's parts. However, in the watch repair community I think there is an appreciation of interchangeability and the utility of cobbling things together from donor movements as needed, so fake is more often reserved for 3rd party copies or cloned parts that never originated from the OEM, often with a poor fit and finish, that are being passed off as something they aren't. In those cases they aren't concerned with using manufacturer's names under false pretenses, so if the rotor you are concerned about was a true fake trying to pass itself off as a Seiko part, they probably would have forged the makers mark! But if this is for a first project watch, then even if it would be a cloned part, the proper function and contribution to power reserve may be more important than whether or not is is signed.

The first Electric...Hamilton Spectra Award 1957.

Hi Murks, first is to measure the hole as it is ,the size of the arbour, then select or make a bush that is either tight on the arbour(can be broached when fitted) and out side diameter of the bush regarding the size of the hole and the amount of material to be removed. The hole can be opened up using a cutting broach/drill untill the the bush is a tight fit and then pressed in (friction tight) and any excess above or below the bridge/plate removed carefully either by hand or on the lathe. The bushing process is the same in watches as in clocks and re quires great care in maintaining the upright status of the the arbour.

I snuck another nice one out of the $1 watch bins at the local flea market. A Glycine Compressor Automatic. It needed full cleaning and service. And a new crystal. Just opening the case was daunting and memorable. Getting the old crystal out was (not) fun. Getting the new one in had me swearing in German (due to the tension ring having its own ideas). I ensured it was well regulated before sealing it all back in tight. Man, they don't call it a "Compressor" for nothing; I'm glad it'll be five years before I have to open it again. The bracelet with which I bought it was clearly taken off a cheap old LCD quartz watch. The style of it was ever so wrong for this. But I had a nice comfy leather strap, so I put that one on it. I did not do more than a light cleaning on the dial, for fear of ruining it. But I think it turned out well.

The crystal you need is PZ5083 if your case is 166.144. Check the case number on the inside of the caseback. You might find it hard to locate a genuine glass, we sold out a while back. We have the generic verion here: https://gleave.london/glass-omega-pz5083-steel-ring-xac-330-552-generic/ Other suppliers will also stock this generic one or you may be able to find a genuine one on ebay.

Today I decided to give my EB8800 based "Chromatic" "Digital Swiss" an airing.

Thanks Frank, that method works really well. Another useful technique to remember

One of the best and most easy methods is a strong, at the tip sharpened tweezers and soft wood. It also works with tweezers without that step, just grip the blade strong enough. You will have more control on the result with slight hammer taps instead of just pushing. Frank (A typical drawing of great Jendritzki) ...and in an earlier copy of the same book I found a picture that directly adresses the issue of the bent blade:

I like this video. But it doesn‘t cover bends that are not caused by a twist.

I finally got mine. I had to camp out at the entrance to our site eating for the big brown van to drive by. Fortunately he stopped quite close so I didn't have to jump out in front of him to stop him. He claimed he had the parcel every day but it was marked return to depot ! No mention of all the shenanigans that had gone on during the previous week. I for one will not be selecting UPS for my Cousin's deliveries again. Quite surprised in this day and age that cousins have no method of contact other than by letter.