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Something looks fishy to me about the one you have, not up to the quality I would expect from Peseux. I wouldn't be surprised at all if it solved the issue.

In another of my hobbies I was once spending so much with one supplier that they sent me a bottle of whiskey at Christmas, oops.

I think you are going about it the best way. I think that is what I would do if I didn't have a replacement. I know you can buy replacement verges that is what Americans call them as we call them pallets, but this is for the alarm and not the movement.

Hmm, ok. It has the right shape, still looks like it's been "modified" in the past. If the old one was riding up that's a sign that the divot was put too high; it's not making good connection with the slope. If the new one is too tight to fit all the way it could be that the diameter of the center wheel shaft is too large near the actual pivot portion (which from the photo could be true). Or it could be the divot in the cannon pinion is simply too much. My gut feeling is the former. If I had it here I would carefully check the diameter of the shaft, at the shoulder and further up, to be sure it's cylindrical, then gage the hole in the cannon pinion with a plug gage, then do whatever modification necessary. Do you have a micrometer?

Here it is. Decided to thread the post and loctite a screw.

Yes, I think if you wipe off the oil you'll see that it doesn't have the same form as in my pic. From the surface finish visible it looks like there was an attempt to modify it with a rough stone or file, and the sloping area was lost in the process. Why it was done is a mystery; could be the center wheel was changed in the past with one that was almost correct, but didn't fit the cannon pinion, or perhaps the cannon pinion was changed, was too tight, thus the stoning in either case, or both.

Welcoem to the forum Bharat. Unfortunately, I can't help you with your problem. A member on here, @JerseyMo has a lot of knowledge on Timex watches. Maybe he will see this and offer some assistance.

I've been using Fixodrop since I was in school, it's just automatic for me, so I don't really think about it. Escape wheel, pallet stones, and cap jewels. A 100ml bottle easily lasts me a year, in which time I might do 200 or so overhauls (I don't only repair watches, otherwise that figure would probably double or more, and I wouldn't be surprised if the 100ml lasted through that quantity). At about 120 pounds or 160 dollars for the bottle, per watch cost is under a buck per watch. If a customer is paying me the going rate for professional work, which I would like to think is equal to (at least) factory level, it's not even a question whether it's worth it or not. I recently started doing some vintage overflow work for a factory, and like John says, they want practically the whole watch treated with Fixodrop. Obviously my usage will go up, even if I might only do 5 or so of these per month, but I'm still pretty sure that 100ml with cover the year. Regardless, they understand the cost and the work is paid accordingly. For hobby work, it really is a question of whether or not one feels like shelling out the money. 9415 is such a terrific escapement lubricant it really does stay put far better than 9010 and thus the need for epilame is lessened.

Just use a free sniping service like Auctionstealer and set it to bid in the last second, you won't beat the bidders with stupid high hidden bids, just because they want something at any cost and can afford to over bid, but I do win a lot of auctions that way. Another secret with eBay is to search the Auctions with a Buy it Now, auctions often end higher than the original BIN price so if you see something you want and the BIN is active (It's removed as soon as there is a bid or the reserve is met if a reserve is set) just buy it and relax in the knowledge you probably got it for less than you would have had you let the auction run to it's natural conclusion.

Yes that was supposed to be there did you look at it? Any of the very newest a reasonably new documentation they love the use FixoDrop Not just on the pallet stones but literally almost everywhere Interesting things are compared the 2804 – 2 with the document I attached above it noticed how much more of the stuff they're using the little use it everywhere almost Have you ever noticed how hard it is to get modern Omega documentation? I snipped out an image from something I got from cousins I don't know if you've ever notice that the newest documentation has that on every single Corner it's like Omega's paranoid? So we know that one time cousins had a parts account and they could get documentation and everyone knows where these PDFs came from. Do you think anyone in their right mind would give you a modern document if their name was on it or whatever the heck they worked? On the other hand maybe they could snip something out so you wouldn't see the offending watermark and where it came from Or perhaps I could give you some text and snip out an image like this text comes out a working instruction number 80 which looks like it supersedes the previous working instruction on cleaning and surface treatment as this one is only on the surface treatment In production, the components of the movement are epilame coated to maintain the lubrication in the correct place, thus ensuring many years of high accuracy and the extremely stable performance of OMEGA watches. In the past, the epilame coating properties could be maintained for up to 3-4 wash cycles in Customer Service before losing their effectiveness. The use of the new environmentally friendly Moebius ES/BS 8981 epilame solution, combined with high performance washing machines such as the Elmasolvex VA, considerably reduces the effects of epilame coating after only one wash cycle. Therefore, in order to maintain an optimal epilame coating effect after a movement service in Customer Service, it is essential to epilame coat all the movement’s components.

If you like the style then it would be good deal if a low offer is accepted. https://www.chrono24.it/frederiqueconstant/manufacture-classic--id21407627.htm

My favorite so far has been this watch crown pusher tube remover. I technically didn't purchase it from China because it was on eBay with quicker shipping and actually cost less too, but its definitely this one from Ali: Iron Watch Crown/Friction Tube Removal Pusher Punch Press Watchmaker Tool With 7 Bits(1.55/1.75/1.95/2.15/2.45/2.65/2.95mm)|Tool Parts| - AliExpress

Anyone up for this. Woolley and Wallis auction house in Salisbury, Wiltshire, faces a busy weekend. The collection features luxurious timepieces from the 18th and 19th centuries. They must all move on an hour tonight as British Summer Time returns.

Fascinating! Is that not also an alarm watch? I have noticed the extra hand, and I see the case back opens from the bottom such that the watch would use it to stand up on a table, like a desk clock. I have an open-face, stem-set pocket watch which operates similar to this, using a Baumgartner 222; but yours is a very nice pin-set Junghans. I am not personally familiar with the movement itself. I would have to research it like anyone else. But LittleWatchShop has already given advice as well as I would give. I think he is right about the front bezel unscrewing. It likely has a two-piece stem, so a squared stem part will remain in the case, and engages a socket in the movement (were we right about that?) and once the movement is out you will need to look after the setting pin - I am not sure if there is anything to keep it in the case. The half-headed screws at the edge are likely what hold it in, but the movement may also have a small retaining pin permanently mounted at the edge somewhere near the stem, and that would be why you'd need to tilt it out from the 6:00 position. As far as having more information: Junghans makes good watches. I cannot recall if they are/were a luxury brand, but I'm sure they are a quality brand. I do not see all the parts here; out of curiosity, did this watch have an alarm bell, or does it use gongs?

Yes, when l get home and begin the service, I will do a photo essay...next week.