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As far as the state of the dial is concerned I would leave it well alone. Your options are basically refinish it, replace it, or live with it. If you refinish it you will dramatically devalue the watch. Collectors rate originality very highly, and that means an original untouched dial, even if it shows its age, is highly valued. If the dial as it is offends you then you could track down a replacement in better condition, but that would be very expensive. Personally I would have no problem with the dial as it is as it is still clean and perfectly readable; I would chalk it up to showing the history of the watch, but we all have different tastes and it may not suit you, but, which ever route you take, changing or modifying the dial will cost you dearly.

Hi all, I am on the cusp of making a significant investment in the BHI DLC, Technician Grade. I live in Toronto, and while there is still a watchmaking school in Canada, dropping everything I'm doing and moving to Trois-Rivieres, Quebec, is not really possible at the moment. I am interested from people who have taken the correspondence course. I want to hear all details, but I'm particularly interested in: a) Was the tutor option worthwhile, if you bought it? b) How much did you miss in-person instruction? c) Did you do the exams? If so, has doing so benefited you? d) How did you cope with workshop / space issues for the practical exercises? e) Overall, is the course good value for money? f) Did you learn much that you did not learn from Mark's course? How much material is going to be redundant? Again, I would reiterate that I'm simply not in a position to move to a town with a watchmaking school at the moment. So while I appreciate that in-person instruction is undoubtedly best, the question is, given that it's not feasible immediately, am I making a worthwhile investment by taking the DLC? Thanks, looking forward to hearing from you. John P.S. If you also live in Toronto and the surrounding area and are interested in forming a BHI "class," message me!

Hi, just wanted to share a little housing tool I built for sharpening screwdrivers, attached the design and STL files here along with pics. Works pretty well for me. It fits Dan's Arkansas Pocket sharpening stone (3" x 1" x 1/4"), which is very affordable and comes in many grades. Has drainage holes at the bottom, in case you choose to use water for the stones. Also has walls/edges to prevent the wheels from running off or over the stone, like a railroad track. sharpener_v1-Body.stl sharpener_v1.FCStd

I bought some more Bergeon screwdrivers because Esslinger was having a special. Anyway, I hate those standing screwdriver holders...I have two. So I made this 3D printed stand/holder. I like my drivers to sit in order of size in a nice neat fashion. They get scrambled up during a service, by I always put them back neatly. Now I have this to assist.

Hi I live in the Toronto Area.

About 50 Euro, and starting at 150 respectively.

History on the wrist. It's becoming clear that the consensus is to leave the face alone and move forward. Thank you for voicing your opinion because I have too many of my own swirling in my head. This is such welcoming community and I'm glad I came here for advise!

I would definitley endorse Marc's opinion as I share the same sentiments regarding originality and the fact thst a restored dil whilst looking the part de values the watch. The watch has lived and picked up a few scars just like us. Clean it all up fit the good quality brpwn strap and the crown . good luck.

Can't say its a good idea.

Oh if I do a deeper clean I'm taking it in to a professional, I'm not brave enough to decipher the innards of a watch like this. My goal was just to clean it up the best I could without any exterior help, then move to more serious decisions if I decided so. It started as a small project but now it seems like it's blooming into uncharted territory for me. I still don't have any idea of what a watch like this may actually cost, there's a slew of numbers out there accounting for condition and such.

That a mechanical mov.t runs doesn't necessarily mean that is in good health. At least it should be tested on the timegrapher to looks at certain basic parameters. Are you thinking of doing that yourself? That would be definitely a bad idea for a beginner. The watch you have is quite valuable and worth the cost of service by a reputable watchmaker. Any of the normal mistakes and damage made by beginners could be disastrous.

I think the shorter piece should be at 12. My rule of thumb is the release clasp should be where the thumb nail can pry the buckle open.

Hi Just in case you need it for the part numbers JLC 815 (2).pdf

I should check all the wheels individially for mashin problems due to worn pivot holes and pinions as somthing is slipping under power. Dismantle the watch again and check every wheel with its neighbour as the depthing is out between wheel and pinion.