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And so Galileo began dropping items from the Pisa tower to prove his point, then Newton introduced the (earth) gravitational constant, then etc, etc, after 3,000 years of science and notation changes we the peasants are left depending on Google while some government keep legal measuring in inches, nails, short medium and long tons.

I would agree is an outstanding grease it's now my favorite. As far as speculation goes why speculate if you have the tech sheet? Oh wait Swatch has gotten clever now they conveniently failed to mention what that white stuff is but in the older tech sheet it tells you exactly what it is. there is really is no mystery if you have the right tech sheet which I'm attaching. okay apparently I'm not attaching as there is now a warning message as you can no longer attach Acrobat files? So there's a way around that all just snip out the relevant image.

Hi All , I was surfing the 'Bay about 2 weeks ago and came across this 1964 Seiko Sportsman Seahorse , Waterproof , Diashock 17 jewel , With a very clean Seikosha 957 Movement . It has the old style model number on the case back and the serial number is 7 digits , not the 6 digits that they use now . The model # is J13082 . It was being offered as a non-runner....as-is . It turned out that the balance roller jewel was not in the fork of the pallet and it was over wound . I remedied that pretty easy and although it does need a service , It keeps excellent time . As I bought it... This pic from the internet shows the movement....my movement looks very clean.. I bought this NOS case and back with the original crystal , movement ring , and caseback gasket [lubed and in good shape] , and the original crown that says SW . I am not familiar with that designation so I asked around and came up with the consensus that it stood for "Seiko Watch "...I am not really sure of that yet....The best part is that the case is the same model number and the serial # is different by about 5 or 6 months of the same year . The case back still has the protective plastic on it . And finally , here is the Re-Case....I like it.....

wow thank you i do have a account on pocket watch data base so thank you vary much i will look at the parts thing

Here's a link with your movement's specifications. On the left side of the page on this site is the "parts" option. Click on that, and you can get the parts numbers for most commonly needed parts: https://pocketwatchdatabase.com/search/result/elgin/6904384 Cas-Ker sells only one kind of Elgin size 6s mainspring. You'll need to measure yours very carefully to see if this one will be right for your watch. The length, width, and strength (thickness) are listed for what they sell here: https://www.jewelerssupplies.com/elgin-mainspring-6-size-MS-JA112.html It should be correct because the following page says your mainspring part number is 824, and that is what Cas-Ker is selling. https://pocketwatchdatabase.com/search/result/elgin/6904384/parts/Springs If it turns out that your barrel is damaged from the broken spring, its part number is 291. There are many uncased (sometimes running) parts-movements available on Ebay alone. Here is a list of all the other grades of Elgins which also use a #291 barrel: 45, 71, 101, 119, 120, 121, 122, 133, 134, 168, 175, 176, 206, 216, 272, 286, 295. Choosing a movement off Ebay is a skill unto itself, but if you pick one of those grades listed, you should get a #291 barrel. You will likely need to install your own arbor and the new spring, or course. If you must visit Ebay, choose as carefully as you can. Hope I've been of enough help. Good luck to you!

Oh...right.

Heheheh. That sounds like a challenge to me. Extremely difficult? Maybe. "No longer possible"? Hardly ever. Did any of these repairers say why they thought it would even *need* parts? Or what parts it would need? How do we know a good cleaning and fresh oil won't get her humming again? It would be sad to have to give up on it. Let's have a go at this. Send the best pictures you can of the movement, and any numbers and marks it may have. We'll work with those pictures to see if we can find a sorces for spares. Meanwhile, if you can describe in what way it is not running correctly, we may be able to extrapolate causes, which can be the first steps in troubleshooting.

Marc and jdm mentioned the two things I was thinking. As jdm stated, someone may have installed an identical but incorrect hairspring. That happened to me recently with one I was baffled by. And as Marc stated, you could be looking at a reading based on an incorrect BPH. Me, I would put the regulator back at center, set it to the second by the most accurate clock I had, and let it run for a day or two. Maybe three if need be. That should tell you something. Who knows? Maybe if there is an actual variation, it might fall within range of the regulator.

I'm wondering if this is a beat rate error. I could be wrong but I have a nagging feeling that some of the movements used in Kingmatics were actually 36000bph movements, your timegrapher is showing 18000bph. Can you tell us the caliber number? Did you set the rate on your TG manually or did it set automatically? How is the time keeping off the TG?

With the index so close to the stud it can't be good. Bring it back in the middle, then check that the HS is regular in shape, a dog leg is formed, the spring is well in between regulator pins, and isn't touching anywhere. And if you don't know the watch history it could be that someone fitted whatever hairsping or balance they could get, then found that it wasn't right, and gave it up.

If you buy a new complete barrel you absolutely just install it, right out of the package.

I found an aftermarket set of clip-on lenses for my phone: telephoto, wide-angle, and a converter. They help a lot; I can get good close ups with no cropping. You do need to hold the phone VERY steady, or brace it somehow, or you'll get more blurring again.

NiSpan C is the generic name for Elinvar Extra, which is a fantastic hairspring material. It's more magnetic than Nivarox, but less than steel. It looks like British precision springs has some springs in the range that might work with your Oris that are NiSpan C. Otherwise at that quantity you can talk directly to Nivarox, or try www.atokalpa.ch, www.atlasmicrotech.ch, and www.precision-engineering.ch. Even at 1000 pcs, you will probably shocked at the price, definitely more expensive than the British company! Like 5-10x more. Are you planning on vibrating these yourself? You will need collets and studs, which the traditional type are hard to get now. The above Swiss companies can collet them with modern collets, at an extra expense of course.

Tap to the next size up and use the next size up screw. Sometimes a rap with a domed punch will close it enough that the original screw will grab, these only have to be snug not "tight".

I found the pdfs here. Click on "Technical guide"

What you have is a fashion watch, common enough, what has probably happened is the sliding pinion and ita associated parts have become displaced and in doing so has blocked the hacking lever which stops the mechanism when setting the time(for accurate setting) this has stopped the watch. you will need to reset these components to correct the problem. The4 movement is an epsonVX3JE (Hattori) a dis assembleing document can be forund here https://www.cousinsuk.com/document If you cant find it just PM me

hey thanks i took it apart and it had a broken mainspring

Watches with "One Hundred Jewels!!!" consist of misleading advertising aimed at gullible laymen with deep pockets who don't always know the real reason watches have jewels, and have been duped into thinking "more is better". The average watch just doesn't have that many pivots and escapement parts to put one hundred jewel bearings on. Maybe if you had a musical alarm minute-repeater with automatons and day, date, moonphase, leapyear, car wash, and sundry other complications, you might need that many bearings. But otherwise it's just added decoration to raise the price.

Hearsay and misinformation is why I replied to that video. If you are going to present yourself as someone with knowledge or a level of expertise you better have your facts straight. Well that is unless you are running for political office. Peace and happiness!

Hi all. So still quite new at this watch repair malarky and tried to stick to similar movements whilst I learn what I am doing, over the months I have bought, stripped, cleaned and reassembled a few Seiko's and Citizen watches as with quite a high success rate especially given how new I am at it, which boosted my confidence no end, but one thing is really putting a dent in my confidence, all the Seiko watches have been either 7009A or 6309, the latter have been fine but with the 7009A, out of the 5 I got working The same thing has happened to 4 of them and that is after working fine for 4 to 6 weeks they suddenly just stop and when I check they have all stopped for the same reason and that is the impulse jewel has fallen out of the balance. The others (touching wood have been fine) it's just the 7009A's that this is happening to. Anyone got any idea as to what the hell is going on here. I know not the let IPA anywhere near the balance and used Naphtha for cleaning the first couple, then went over to Renata. And they have not been in the Ultrasonic cleaner either. The only thing I can think of is as these watches and movements came from eBay so I don't know what any previous owner had done to them, although none of them looked like they had ever been cleaned before so I am not even sure I can blame the past owners and it's driving me nuts. Today's one I did manage to find the jewel and under the microscope managed to get the jewel back in with drop of shellac to hold it in place, (fingers crossed) all the others I lost to the carpet monster. Anyone got any clues as to what's going on here. Thanks for any help with this