Leaderboard

Try pulling the crown out to setting position, then loosen the two case screws. The movement should come out from the front.

I've done these for picky clients. I rebore the hole in the case and sleeve it as needed. Tricky job and needs precision machinery.

Unfortunately there is a problem with 9415? I'm attaching a PDF starting on page 13 it covers lubrication of the escapement. notice where they're putting super tiny quantities on? This is because if you get carried away with the quantity which normally wouldn't be an issue if this was an oil you will lose amplitude. This is because on impact the grease becomes a fluid it's very slippery and outstanding but if it's heavy the edges of the escape wheel are not an impact and there literally tearing through the grease. Omega 8645_WI_40_rules for lubrication cousins uk.pdf

9415 is a newer product with thixotropic properties. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Thixotropy Search WRT for this word to be lead to the various discussions one the subject.

Pretty much, yes. Nobody said this was going to be easy.

I assume I PA equals isopropyl alcohol? What's interesting is with our cleaning machine at work the last rinse is isopropyl alcohol industrial-strength the Cayman a big metal can. I'm pretty sure it's in the last rinse for longer than a minute and I'm reasonably sure it has ultrasonic. If I remember how to get a picture of the canned so we can make sure it really is isopropyl alcohol that usually it's not a problem for shellac I was always taught with roller jewels especially since I spend a lot of time working on American pocket watches that when they come out of the cleaning machine you grab them and see if they wiggle. American pocket watches have a misfortune of interestingly weird repair histories and sometimes the shellac isn't shellac and a lot of times the roller jewel is loose. On a modern watches they do appear to be pressed in. But if you're not sure where gently grabbed the jewel and see if it's loose it's in their nice and tight your fine.

You're 1000% ok with a one minute rinse in IPA. I do watches from early 20th century with a longer alcohol rinse and do check the roller jewel- it's maybe 1 in 200 that need a reshellac. More modern watches the jewel was a press fit, you are fine.

Nice.... I hope you get it going! Great to see the Geneva stop work is still in place, as some watchmaker's used to remove it to gain a little more power reserve, but it does have it's cost...

It looks like your watch numbers earlier enough that it's probably in the bestfit book. That means we could look up the stem dimensions and find out what the stem belongs to. Or you can look at the website below and have the dimensions their figure out what you have. https://www.windingstems.com/eta.php

Depending upon the Age of the tech sheet you will find Variations especially for lubrication. I don't have a timeline but it goes in this order 9010 originally although the earlier tech sheets of other recommendations. then 941 comes out. Later 9415 a grease originally for higher frequency watches. Then the tech sheets were either or and it didn't have anything to do with frequency. Finally 9415 is the choice for everything. Okay to be technical it's not for everything there are some other specialty lubrication's but for this discussion it's 9415. I've attached a newer PDF of your watch and it's 9415. Also first link you can see the oil listed and that just says it's for escapement's. That on the grease section you'll find the 9415. http://www.moebius-lubricants.ch/en/products/oils http://www.ranfft.de/cgi-bin/bidfun-db.cgi?10&ranfft&0&2uswk&ETA_2836 ETA CT_2836-2_FDE_481924_17-1 2018.pdf

Welcome from Connecticut!

Perhaps you could remove the pallet (and put the balance complete back) and see if the balance behaves as expected with a smooth motion that gently drops of as it looses energy ? You could use an air blower to just "puff" some air on the mounted balance to get it to move and that should be sufficient. That should show you if the problem lies with the balance or the pallet (or elsewhere).

Many thanks for all of the help with this question. Stem extension did the trick brilliantly. Completed and fixed with some thread adhesive and it appears to be holding well.

Hi having got the part number one can order replacements from cousins uk or look for a donor movement on ebay or try obsoletewatchandclockparts.com or welwynwatchparts.co.uk both second user parts suppliers. I have attached the tech sheet for your interest, lot of usefull information. 276_Seiko6309A (1).pdf

I found this Summit on ebay going for not much £ - just loved the look of it. The hands are beautifully blued. A clean+oil, new mainspring and strap, it's running well and looks great The movement is a 17J A Schild 1130, which would date it to 1955-60, but it looks more modern to me. Anyone heard of Summit ?

Drug out the old 27j Bell-Matic, have not had a chance to peek inside, day wheel is skewed, on the upside alarm works and is keeping decent time.

Today's work beater...

Decided to wear one of my two analog/digital quartz watches this Friday the 13th. This is a Pulsar NX01-X001, extensively modded to be an 'omage to the Omega X-33 (the original, not the hideous new Skywalker model).

I've had this one put away, but decided to bring it out today. This is my 12 size Elgin Transit #18182835, Grade 997 made about 1915. They were Grade 345's that were adjusted to 4 positions and were reported to be made for the Illinois Transit Authority for use on their non-rail systems. These were the first 12's to have a 2 tone finish All 1000 of the Transits made start with the serial number 18182***

My today's clock for tomorrow on my 55-year birthday is inherited from my grandpa Sorry for the big picture, I'm editing them in the future. // Mats